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My two ZR7s are both uk models but the GPzs are US imports.

The second bike (with the pipe between the two covers) was filled with silicone, blocking up the tube to the exhaust port and stopping the reeds from operating.

It did run fine until the ECU started damaging the coils (which I will get sorted before spring!) but it will also be sorted over winter. I’m not running an air box on this bike but I’ll run a pipe to a cool still point on the bike and stick a luthier filter on the end of it. This should replicate the coo,l clean air from the air box.
 

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Kz750n Spectre 1982
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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
While trawling the Internet for information about "clean air system " someone mentioned the possibility of overheating the exhaust valves leading to burning if it was blocked off, who knows, people have blocked it off and not said of any issues but then again I don't think I'd admit to it either. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion.
Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #206 ·
I thought you bought a new OEM petcock?
I bought a new front brake master cylinder, fuel tank has been sat on the bench ever since I bought the bike and only fitted back yesterday and only then I found petcock to be very slightly damp with fuel, since stripping the petcock it was found that the small "O" ring on the diaphragm had become partialy stuck to its seat and damaged, I assume it became stuck because it had been in the shut position for the last 15 years. When I aquire a new "O" ring and rebuild I think I'll have cured the leak, obviously testing before refitting.
Regards Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
New O ring fitted, sealed and reassembled, vacuum tested and not leaking (diaphragm), valve moving freely when vacuum applied, just waiting for sealant to cure before "wet" test, I'm reasonably confident it's now repaired.
I don't think I got any fuel into the crankcase as there's a breather hole below the level of where the vacuum pipe attaches and the leak was very small, hardly enough to make it damp.
Regards Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #211 ·
I always coasted my Petcock O-Ting with fingers dipped in brake Fluid to swell them a little. I've never had good leak. Good luck to you, you deserve it. Great thread too! :)
Thanks for that, I just hope not to bore anyone 😴 but it does help me to write things down and see any comments "a day without learning is a day wasted "
Would it be ok to post on this fine forum about non kawasaki problems? I know it's more specific to kawasaki but I do like people on here.
Ian
 

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Thanks for that, I just hope not to bore anyone 😴 but it does help me to write things down and see any comments "a day without learning is a day wasted "
Would it be ok to post on this fine forum about non kawasaki problems? I know it's more specific to kawasaki but I do like people on here.
Ian
Not boring at all, and we all learn from each other. Having said that, we do not want to lose focus that this is a Kawasaki site, and as such we don't want to stray into other brands. There are many fine forums out there for the other brands, some of which are owned by our parent, VerticalScope Inc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
Tank refitted and no more leaking from petcock, job done.
Now found oil leak from shaft drive at the rear, any thoughts/ideas/tips/advice etc? It's leaking from the inside of the hub(rear wheel) I guess it's a seal.
Regards Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #216 ·
Yake apart and fix. Old bike, old seals, expect on replacing all of them, check the bearings too. ;)
Yes, that's what I figured, I have been looking for seals and workshop diagram but no luck, I even looked for different models which share the same shaft drive again no luck so I think my only course of action is to get the old seal out and take it to my local seals and bearings shop, I've used them before when I was working and they are pretty good, fingers crossed they can help again. I only have the workshop manual for the kz750h which is 95% the same as mine except the shaft, the 750h is chain. Virtually everything else is the same except some cosmetic things.
Regards Ian
 

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Seals have their size stamped on them. Just like bearings, they can be cross matched. I used to use a company called "TEK BEARING" up here. I don't know if they still do that. I used to cross match seals all the time when rebuilding cars, and components, motorcycles, etc. The number on the top edge read the size thickness hole, etc. and the guy, having the seal in hand would usually come back with something more heavy duty. Even offset seals, in case there was a groove in the shaft, and it wouldn't seal there anymore. You need to find a place that specializes in seals, and not destroy the seals (or take a great picture) when removing them. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #220 · (Edited)
Which seal is it? See diagram below or search it on Partzilla.
92049A and 92049B both include size specs in the parts listing.

Thanks for the link, I think I know what I want now, from Partzilla it would be approximately £24 and 200 plus days for delivery so I will look into getting it more locally ie UK 🇬🇧. It's the big seal on the inside (B) ( I think) as that is where the oil is coming from.
Best regards Ian
 
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