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Kz750n Spectre 1982
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Discussion Starter · #221 ·
Just a small point, when I replaced the old spark plugs they were B7ES, I've replaced them with B8ES as per spec. I understand the hotter plugs are for cold climates, being that the bike came from Minnasota, would that explain it?
Ian
 

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I always run spark plugs based off of spark plugs reading. I've always found the spark plugs that were standard seemed best. It's cold in COnnecticut, but much colder in Minnesota, but once the bike warms up, I don't know if that's an issue. I would read the spark plug(s) and see if it has a nice tan color, it it's too light, then it's too hot, too dark, too cold. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #223 ·
I always run spark plugs based off of spark plugs reading. I've always found the spark plugs that were standard seemed best. It's cold in COnnecticut, but much colder in Minnesota, but once the bike warms up, I don't know if that's an issue. I would read the spark plug(s) and see if it has a nice tan color, it it's too light, then it's too hot, too dark, too cold. ;)
Will do that when the bike is roadworthy, could be a while though, you have to understand UK 🇬🇧 regulations ie when a vehicle reaches 40+year old it is then considered "historic " and no longer requires roadworthiness examination or road tax, now if I understand the rules I think mine doesn't need roadworthy examination BUT would need to be TAXED until the end of this year. On the 1st January it doesn't need to be taxed anymore, I still have paperwork and red tape to get through for registration purposes (anything like 6+ weeks if it goes smoothly) so legally I won't be able to go far (too many cameras) 😉 :oops:
Ian
 

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Thanks for the link, I think I know what I want now, from Partzilla it would be approximately £24 and 200 plus days for delivery so I will look into getting it more locally ie UK . It's the big seal on the inside (B) ( I think) as that is where the oil is coming from.
Best regards Ian
If you have the part number, it’s worth giving your local Kawasaki dealer a call. It may still be available through the official network.

You could also try Fowlers in Bristol or CMSML.com in The Netherlands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #225 ·
So I've removed the rear wheel and the big seal ,the one I thought it might be, looks dry. Dried/wiped everything so now I will look again ,from time to time, and see if I can pinpoint the exact area of leak.
Ian
 

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Not sure on your bike, but my Concours C-10 has a lubed drive shaft spline coupling. There are 2 o-rings for the aft coupling. 92055B in the parts listing. These rings will flatten out or get brittle and crack letting lube leak out of the bottom of the gearbox housing at the intersection of the wheel. Same indications as if the seals in the drive are leaking. There is a hole in the input spline to the rear drive if it is lubed. It is just forward of the aft o-ring. With your drive removed you should be able to see it. You have to remove the coupling from the shaft to replace the forward one. Long nose snap ring pliers required.

My Vulcan 750 is not lubed by the rear drive and needs to be lubed at each tire replacement to prevent damaging the splines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #228 ·
Not sure on your bike, but my Concours C-10 has a lubed drive shaft spline coupling. There are 2 o-rings for the aft coupling. 92055B in the parts listing. These rings will flatten out or get brittle and crack letting lube leak out of the bottom of the gearbox housing at the intersection of the wheel. Same indications as if the seals in the drive are leaking. There is a hole in the input spline to the rear drive if it is lubed. It is just forward of the aft o-ring. With your drive removed you should be able to see it. You have to remove the coupling from the shaft to replace the forward one. Long nose snap ring pliers required.

My Vulcan 750 is not lubed by the rear drive and needs to be lubed at each tire replacement to prevent damaging the splines.
Thanks for the info jpd, but just at the moment I have more important pressing issues due to sudden unexpected major flooding of carbs, I have rechecked vac on petcock, all OK, so the carbs are off AGAIN and I have ordered a rebuild kit for all 4 (2-3 weeks delivery) Definitely NOT looking forward to refitting them :mad: My knuckles have only just recovered from the last time
regards Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #230 ·
Oh bummer. Knuckle busters and scrapes, why I rarely remove my carburetors. ;)
I have only been inside carbs once before, months ago, and besides changing some jets that got destroyed removing them, they were cleaned thoroughly and inspected, all seemed good,, or so I thought, I suspect a sticky float valve or weak spring, although they appeared ok at the time, so I've cleaned the seats and now await new viton tip float valves etc. Although the carbs have been off several times I've only been inside them once.
Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #231 ·
Been looking at shaft oil leak problem, I think I may have identified which one of the 3 seals it is, obviously it's the most difficult one to change, however, having said that, it's stopped leaking. Anyway bike going nowhere due to being in pieces again so I'll keep an eye on the leaking (or not)
Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 ·
I think you were using 5:1 solution. It might be time to try 3:1.
They were soaking for about 3 weeks last time, but 2 of them were rock hard, this time not so bad but getting stiff enough to try again. Still waiting for float needle valves ,could be about 2 more weeks so they will soak as long as it takes for the valves to arrive. Because they are soaking for a long time I'm not sure 3-1 will do a better job than 5-1, maybe 3-1 would do it quicker but then they reach a saturation point and ,I think, won't get any softer, obviously new rubbers would be best but at around $50 for 4 and hopefully only need them once it seems an expense I don't need, being from Yorkshire we are renowned for being careful with money, plus the wife is always saying " are you spending more money on that thing!!!" :LOL:
Could the airbox be moved backwards to give just a little more room ,or is it more trouble than its worth?
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Most airboxes can be moved back, but not by much. In my experience each mm moved is worth it. I think mine moved back about 3-4 mm and it sure helped me. Let us know how much yours can be moved. Good for future reference.
 

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I think the limiting factor is at the sides where the airbox is as wide as the frame. If it’s like the GPz, there’s a single 6mm bolt at the rear of the box (under the battery tray so can’t be accessed from above. The air box can then be moved back until it touches the frame rails. I think 3-4mm sounds about right.

If you can get to the bolt then it may be worth it but getting to the bolt may be more difficult than just struggling on.

My issue is getting an airbox back in but that requires removal of the cam chain adjuster. When I get round to it, I’ll check the valve clearances at the same time.
 
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