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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I plan to add a 12 volt LED turn signal indicator, in parallel with the OEM incandescent indicator, on my 1998 Kawa Valcan 800 Classic. It will be mounted up inside the windshield where I will see it while driving. Should I expect any issues with mixing this LED with the current incandescent turn signals and indicator?
 

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That shouldn't be an issue but if it is get yourself a load dependant relay, Simple swap out from the oem to the replacement.
 

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If the Kaw has only 1 turn indicator, you will need to rewire the existing one or it may only work on 1 side. (sold my 800 back around 2008?, cant remember) I don't have the schematics for the 800, pretty sure they wire the same as Honda etc if it's 1 indicator. The existing indicator has the left and right turn signal going to either side of the indicator bulb and counts on going through the non-blinking side's filament to ground, which only adds a few ohms of resistance to the circuit. If you're just going to have one indicator added, you need to add a diode to each wire going to the existing indicator and tie both to the same side of the bulb, silver band on the diodes going to the bulb, and ground the other side of the bulb. The diodes act as one-way check valves for the current flow and let you use just 1 indicator without feeding back to the other side. You can then tie in at the positive side of the indicator where the diodes are now connected, run to your led indicator and back to a ground.
If you're adding a right and left mounted high indicator, just come off the front turn signals back by the headlight to your new leds and to a ground.

FWIW, if you add LED turn signals, you need to do the indicator conversion if you have a single dash indicator, If there are still issues with cross feeding etc, add a diode at each led turn signal input, negative end to the lights. Some brands simply added a resistor for the run side to dim them and use the same leds for blinking by bypassing the resistor. this then backfeeds through to the other side without the added diodes. Better quality units will have the extra diode built in.

As for diodes, a standard 1N4002 is more than heavy duty enough. Less than a dollar at most any electronics supplier. though any diode rated for more than 12v and 1 amp will work fine.

Ran across some recently that also needed the flasher relay bypassed as well as the indicator diodes. The turn signal lights themselves each had a blinker circuit and lit the leds sequentially, like the old Cougars and newer mustangs. Just unplug the flasher, jump the harness connector power lead from ign sw to turn signal switch lead and tape it up. Note, the indicator should still come on but no longer blink. certain 3 wire flashers were wired with the 3rd lead going to the indicator.
 

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And if you're wanting to change to LEDs to save your charging system, think about it 1st. These are Permanent Magnet charging systems, designed to run the bike and keep the battery charged with regular use. and any excess current if any, is dissipated as heat through the rectifier circuitry. (thus the fins...) Their output is not variable like a car alternator with a variable field voltage that generates just enough to stay in limits. The bike will put out the same amount of charging current regardless of load on the system, amount determined solely by rpm. which means switching to LEDs could cause your rectifier to work a lot harder getting rid of any excess. or that sprocket change means your battery wont stay up. calculate the load and by all means switch to LEDs if you added spotlight, heated grips etc or lowered rpms with sprocket changes....

And I strongly recommend LED brake lights, Switched some lights on my car to LED, The alarm remote flashes the lights. The LEDs light noticably faster than the incandescent bulbs, could be the difference between someone hitting you or stopping 6" from your rear fender...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't think I will have the issues you mention in the first part of your post. I only have one incandescent turn indicator which flashes with either the right or left turn signal. I expect the 12 volt LED indicator wired in parallel will do the same. Thanks for your post.
 

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I'd bet lunch one side only will work...
 

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And inside that bit of heat shrink and wire are two 35 cent diodes. And nothing else.
 

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Maybe, but for $10, it’s hardly worth your time and effort to make it yourself!
True for some, maybe true for most people, but some of us take pride and get satisfaction from building our own stuff while saving money and not having to wait for the part to arrive in the mail.
 

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True for some, maybe true for most people, but some of us take pride and get satisfaction from building our own stuff while saving money and not having to wait for the part to arrive in the mail.
Each to their own of course. And if you have the parts to hand to make your own then even better.

Starting from scratch though and you’re likely to spend more than the $10 buying the bits you need. Granted you’ll have parts left over to make many more items, but you’re unlikely to need to.
 

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As 9094 said the diodes are about 35 cents each (available at any electronics supply house). Heat shrink and wire are cheap also. Most DIY guys like me have all that stuff on hand except maybe the diodes. Heat shrink and new wire is like a lifeline to any restoration of vintage bikes, cars or even some home repairs, so it's an investment. At least that's the way I look at it.

But yes, if you had no wire, no heat shrink, no diodes then it might set you back $10 or so.
 

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You still have to make the trip to get the diodes and if you take it to the next level, why not save at least another 3; cents and build the diode yourself?

It’s a case of where you choose to stop!
 
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