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Retired High Miler
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1,209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
when you order a light bar, do you get a complete new chrome bar containing the new lights and new turn signals? If so do you just toss the turn signals you already have? Or do you just get the new driving lights and wireing and add them to your existing bar?
 

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jerkybear's Vulcan
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418 Posts
You will get eveything. I bought my Kawi light bar complete. I think they are all like that. You keep the stock headlight. Do whatever you want with the stock lightbar and turn signals. Very easy to install, but as some of the guys and gals will tell you, put the lights on a different circuit. Not hooked into the headlight wiring. If do like the instructions state or like I did, you could have your dims go dark on you like mine did. Hope it helped. Craig
 

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Registered
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196 Posts
The Show Chrome light bar has you reuse your turn signals as well.
 

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1,476 Posts
It's easy to install the Cobra light bar. You have two options for placement of the re-used turn signals. You can put them the side, or put them on the bottom. Your choice.

D
 

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Retired High Miler
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1,209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, I have ordered the Cobra bar from Meancycle now, so will see what I get.
Barry
 

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Luv my big boy toys
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1,490 Posts
You will get eveything. I bought my Kawi light bar complete. I think they are all like that. You keep the stock headlight. Do whatever you want with the stock lightbar and turn signals. Very easy to install, but as some of the guys and gals will tell you, put the lights on a different circuit. Not hooked into the headlight wiring. If do like the instructions state or like I did, you could have your dims go dark on you like mine did. Hope it helped. Craig
The Cobra has you run the wires outside the bar, attached with zip ties unless you make holes & run them inside. You reuse your originals and "O" rings. National Cycle comes complete & the wires are hidden inside. It comes with amber lenses but you can get the clear lenses from Clear Alternatives They are Harley Lenses, the flat style.
Also, when you do the wiring on whatever bar you get, if you want it on with the headlight on either the lo or high beam, you use the blue wire with the yellow tracer to switch the relay.

 

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Retired High Miler
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1,209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Freight I want it to come on with the headlight and be available with the high and low both.
Barry
 

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BACK ON TWO WHEELS
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13,542 Posts
Depends on the bar, my National Cycle, i use my turn sigs
 

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Luv my big boy toys
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1,490 Posts
Freight I want it to come on with the headlight and be available with the high and low both.
Barry
This is how mine are My light bar
To trigger the relay your choices are:
red & black: high-beam
red & yellow: low beam
Blue w/yellow tracer on with hi and low beam, off when starting, just like the factory headlight.:cool:

Here is a diagram of the relay hook up, #30 is wired to your trigger source, such as the blue wire with the yellow tracer. Some people might say that you can trigger off the running lights, but then the light bar will come on when the key is turned to run and remain on when starting, putting more drain on the battery.

The diagram below seems to be correct and many concur.


Connections are:
86 is connected to trigger source (mine is the blue w/yellow tracer)
85 is connected to ground accessory lead in the bucket
87 is connected to hot accessory lead in the bucket
30 is connected to light bar lights (Load)
87a is not used (not all relays have this 5th connector)
Although the diagram shows fuses, you won't really need them, both the source & accessory lead are already fused.

However, you will need bullet connectors to attach to the accessory leads in the bucket, if the relay doesn't come with a one piece plug then you'll need spade connectors for that. My relay had a mounting tab which I attached to one of the 3 bolts holding the bucket to the tree.

Bullet connectors look like this (thanks Rich)

Updated post 01/15/08 @23:18EDT
 

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Retired High Miler
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Freight: Thanks a lot, this is what I am looking for, UPS will deliver on the 18 th. The ground and hot accessory are in the bucket, is the blue and yellow in there too?
Barry
 

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Luv my big boy toys
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1,490 Posts
Freight: Thanks a lot, this is what I am looking for, UPS will deliver on the 18 th. The ground and hot accessory are in the bucket, is the blue and yellow in there too?
Barry
Yes, it's one of the wires in the plug that goes into the headlight bulb. BTW, the blue & yellow aren't separate wires, just to clarify it's a blue wire with a yellow tracer on it, meaning it has a yellow stripe on the blue. It's called a tracer so when running wires you can tell one from the other.
Cover your fender with some towels, you might drop something, so protect it before or you'll cry after you do.:eek:
Remove the screws holding your headlight in, then you'll see a plug going into the bulb, remove it. Place the headlight assembly aside and then you can locate the wire on the plug, the hot & ground accessory connections. You'll also see the wires that have a clear shielding covering the male/female connectors, these are the running/signal/ground wires for your factory bar.
The Cobra bar I just installed on a Nomad was a little wider than factory and coupled with my running the wires inside the bar they were too short. I needed to add about 6" to each side.
You'll need to reuse your original signal lights & "O" rings. Soldering your connections & insulating is better than twisting, crimping & butt connectors. Some connectors will need to be crimped regardless so you should us a good crimping tool for a few bucks more than a cheapo model from the auto parts store you can get one from Lowes/Home Depot type store that crimps proper, tight and secure connections. If you run the wires inside the bar you will need grommets to prevent the wires getting chafed.

 

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Luv my big boy toys
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1,490 Posts
Here's what it will look like inside. Notice in the close up, you see four wires going to the left, they go to the plug for the bulb. Where you see them going into the plastic covering to the right you will find the blue/yellow wire, that's where you'll make your connection as well as all the wires for the signals.
As for the signal lights, use a test light to test which ones do what. IE: which is the left signal and right signals. The running lights don't make a difference, the ones that appear dead are the grounds.

 

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Retired High Miler
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1,209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Freight: It is good to know where to start looking, cuts down on potential for errors. I am a world champ when it comes to dropping things.
Thanks again.
Barry
 

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Patriot Guardian
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28,016 Posts
Switch the description of the connections to 30 and 86.
85 and 86 are the coil, 30 and 87 are the relay contacts

The Bosch Relay Unraveled


"Trigger" source goes to 86, 30 goes to the fuse/battery

Edit: Ignore post, diagram corrected.
 

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Retired High Miler
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1,209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Freight: thanks for the revised bucket pic, it will help a lot.
Rich: thanks for the diagram, I am curious to see what if any wireing I get to hook this thing up.
I got home from minding the grand children this eavening and found a message from my shipping company, the bar has arrived, 7 days as promised. Now to scoot accross the border tomorrow to pick it up. The wife has us booked for social engagments all weekend so no chance to install till that is out of the way. This being retired leaves you no time!
Barry
 
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