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Discussion Starter #1
So it's been about 2 weeks of having and riding my Amber. She has a serious oil consumption problem, in about 500 miles I lost a quart of oil. In addition, the Cam chain is loud and it's driving me nuts. I can smell and see oil at startup and when I come to a stop at a light or something.

I called the lone Vintage Repair shop (or Guy, nice Guy too) and it'll likely be $1,600.00 to redo the top end:shock: So i just hopped on Ebay and found the correct repair manual for her and I'm strongly considering doing the job myself:neutral:
 

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Navy Vet Search & Rescue
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You'll find that to be the cheaper route for sure, and if you're anything like the rest of us, you'll get some enjoyment out of the whole process as well as a good deal of satisfaction in doing it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Agreed. I did this to my 1977 Yamaha XS 250 back in 1997 but it's been many many years since I wrenched on a bike.
 

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When you get to that point, I highly recommend hand lapping the valves. There are devices that are supposed to be available, but I was much happier with the job I did by hand than the job the tool did.

If one of the major symptoms is oily smoke on start up, check to see if you are getting the same thing on deceleration/engine braking. If you are, the part that probably "most shot" is the set of oil seals on the valves. If those are gone, it's pretty obvious.

Of course, while you have the head off, a good valve refresh, new lap, spring compression test, and all of the other PM things will be good exercises for you.

You will need to reset the valves when you get done. You have shim-over-bucket valves, so setting them on the bench isn't necessary, but is still something you can before you put the top end back together. If you relap the valves, you are going to have to get thinner shims. I recommend a 2.0 mm shim as a 'test' shim so you can measure once, insert the correct shim for your clearance, and move on.

Many of the manuals for the heads on this bike list the cam shaft cap bolt torque at 12 ft-lb. If you do that, expect to strip out at least half of the holes. Supplements to most of these manuals list the correct torque at about 85 in-lb (about 7 ft-lb). If I remember correctly, the maximum safe torque is something like 88 in-lb. A little locktite will help when you get to putting it all back together.

If you assume all new valves, new springs, 8 new shims, and new cam-chain and associated parts and gaskets, most of the price you were quoted is still labor. I'm gonna guess you can probably do the job with under $200 in parts (new gaskets, valves if you're feeling it, seals, etc.) but expect it to take a few hours. Lapping the valves alone is probably a couple hours of tedium right there.

Changing the cam-chain out at this point is usually a good idea - you'll have access to nearly every part of the cam chain system except the lower sprocket itself while you have the head off, and it can't hurt to have one less thing to worry about, especially since you are hearing a lot of cam chain noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Great info and advice. I plan on replacing all the valves, valve seats, cam chain (considering a manual cam chain tensioner), springs, shims, rings and having the head honed if its scratch free.

You are correct about the smoke at start up and decelerating and braking, as well as while idling.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How difficult would it be to tear down motor completely. I want to replace every gasket and seal on this motor. Oh I'd like to upgrade gears too, noticed a slight slip between N and 2nd gear when gearing down.


Great info and advice. I plan on replacing all the valves, valve seats, cam chain (considering a manual cam chain tensioner), springs, shims, rings and having the head honed if its scratch free.

You are correct about the smoke at start up and decelerating and braking, as well as while idling.
 

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How difficult would it be to tear down motor completely. I want to replace every gasket and seal on this motor. Oh I'd like to upgrade gears too, noticed a slight slip between N and 2nd gear when gearing down.
Not very. With the heads off, you've got about half the motor done already. The difference is that you should be able to do all of the head work with the engine still in the bike. The transmission is in the bottom of the engine. Also, the "slip" between 1 and 2 is probably the neutral finder detent - I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be there.

In your list of items to replace, you listed valve seats. No have. The seats are cast into the head. If you are having trouble with a valve seat and can't fix it with a light cut and relap, you will need to get the head welded and machined.

In general, the less you do to the head, the better off you'll be.

There are a couple of ways to remove the engine, which I recommend only if you are going to tear the whole thing down. The first is to just loosen it up and muscle it out of the left side. The other way is to get it "pretty loose" and lay the bike down on the left side and remove the last of the bolts. If you're doing it right, it should just lay down on the floor. Stand the bike back up and you're in business.

There was a 30-minute video floating around here a few weeks ago showing the steps to completely dismantle the KZ1000 engine (which is visually the same as yours). It's amazing how fast you can take apart and put back together this engine when there's no grease or oil on it, and the bolts have all been "deseized" so they are easy to take out.

There are a couple of places in the video that talk about when to use locktite on the bolts and the correct order to pull and put things in to make your life easiest.

If you do pull the engine, WiredGeorge has pictures of the engine stand he uses when he rebuilds engines on here somewhere.
 

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Queasy Rider
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I rebuilt the top end of my '84 ZN1100 LTD a couple of years ago and it is running fantastic. At the time I had never done more than change a starter motor or alternator on a car. With the help of the factory service manual and the guys here on the forum I was able to do it all myself.

I did buy a set of Neway valve seat cutters to do a 3-angle valve job. They worked beautifully. I also lapped in the (original) valves with my own compound. I find the stuff available around hear too course. My valve job held mineral spirits for two days without leaking.
I also bought a 'Flex-hone' to deglaze and hone the cylinders leaving a 45º crosshatch pattern on the cylinder walls.Even still, I spent less than I would if some else would have done it, I know it's done right and I know a lot more about my motor now.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Guys
This is awesome news and thanks for the encouragement. Hoyt can you post pics and sources of the tools you bought? I don't have the manual as yet but is it possible to replace the Cam chain with the motor in frame? and what about a manual tensioner would that be ok ( I'm worried about bending up valves while riding her later) I will look for the Video
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Found the Video and holy crap there is a lot going on there :)
 

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Queasy Rider
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Here's a photo of the Neway valve seat cutters. One of the cutters is double sided with two different angles and the other is single for a total of 3 angles.(I made the box)




Here it is in action.




I would wait until you measure your cam chain to see if it is within spec. before deciding to replace it. Mine had 60,000 miles on it (100,000 kms) and it was still well within spec. Same with the valves. I just lapped mine. 'don't see a need to replace. (Save your money for the all important coil upgrade. ;) )
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Agreed Hoyt :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I upgraded the brakes last night and changed out the speedo cable. I haven't tested speedo as yet. Today I plan on wiring in a cell phone dock and charger and putting in an inline fuel filter. I was shocked when I pulled the tank and there wasn't one:shock:

The coil packs look original so they will have to be upgraded soon. Also ther is a fuel return line or something on the Carbs I need to investigate
 

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Queasy Rider
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Yes it looks like you have the original coils and wires. You'll find a great improvement in running and starting when you get yourself some Dyna coils. It also appears that you still have the emission control crap. I don't know much about it since the Canadian bikes did not have it but most everybody removes it and installs caps on the valve cover. There are some commercially available. StarGate made some himself from 1/4'' aluminum stock which look very nice.

I'd say the good news is that no [email protected] has done a bunch of bad mods to it. Working with an all original is much easier and predictable than having to figure out someone else's mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hoyt

So u're saying that the hose and valve at the intake can be eliminated? I don' need smog test in Atlanta, GA for my bikes.
 

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Queasy Rider
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I don't know the laws in GA but given the age of the bike you may be exempt. It will certainly run, probably better, without all that junk on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It comes off today!! (done):) As I know for a fact that when I registered Amber, she was exempt from mileage and no one said a word about Emission testing.

I just finished installing and wiring up cell phone GPS dock :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Folks

It's been a while since I've been over here hanging with you Guys. A lot has happened and changed in my life BUT I still have my "Amber" and I'm going to start partially restoring her this week. As of now she sits in a storage locker with the top end of the motor torn off.
 
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