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well, after 3 times the cost of a set of aftermarket pipes worth of bills came in this month, i cant afford em, BUT i still love the look of the stock pipes. just too quiet. soooo i was hoping someone in house has drilled them out.

i've already pulled the first set of baffles on the outtermost portion of the pipes. but its soooo quiet. and i read a while back that theres the second set (final set) of baffles near the bend behind the heat shield. just wondering if there was a guide or somone who could give me pointers on how to get them out without damage to the pipes etc. thanks a ton!

scott
 

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Discussion Starter #2
and this may sound like really dumb question but how do i go about lowering the bikes ride height? im real new to bike tuning, so thanks for the help
 

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What really quiets down the bike is the Bread Box, thats the box that is under the bike in front of the rear tire..... I had a mechanic remove the baffles and still very quiet..... he also took off the bread box and tried to gutt it out the best he could and it was still too quiet.... I think if you remove the bread box and cap the ends of the exhaust were it goes, you will get some more noise... But I don't know how much..... But it should be easy to try with a couple of pipe caps from Home Depot and cap the pipes . If you like it then get them chromed....
 

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i dont know if i read it wrong, but that wouldnt work. the way the cat works on it is the exhaust comes out of the first pipe, and is delivered into the cat, then circulates through it and comes out the other end and then is delivered to the muffler and out the back. so if you cap off the outlet to the exhaust tract into the cat you would in essense be putting a cork in the exhaust and cause some scary damage. one thing a person could do, is just remove the cat and have the exhaust gas run like an open downpipe and go down under the bike instead of ever touching the muffler and going out the rear of the bike. it would be ghetto, but scary loud.

the only option i can see is if a person pulled the cat off and had some pipe fabb'ed up to take the gas from the outlet to the cat and into the inlet to the muffler, but would look kind of odd unless it was pretty well hidden, and on top of that. you would have the problem of finding the right size exhaust and someone willing to do it since pulling a cat is illegal for a shop to do.


dammit.

does anyone wanna sell some aftermarket pipes cheap? :x
 

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Best suggestion I have is to be patient and save your money and get some pipes when you can afford them.
 

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Yea the best thing to do is to get some after market pipes....
But if you remove the baffles and remove the wall that would cork it (sorry didn't make myself clear) you would create some ghetto ass straight pipes.... :D ......
 

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I just got my first bike, green 04 meanstreak, and I don't know anything about motorcycle tuning. I was wondering how you remove the baffles though. How did you remove the baffles that you removed, skawty?
Thanks. J
 

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I am no expert when it comes to exhaust, but I believe that gutting the converter and/or pipes could cause problems.

The motorcycle (electronics and fuel injection) depends on a certain level of back pressure and exhaust gas scavenging to run properly. They are actually more efficient (gas mileage) and can generate more power with certain engineered levels of back pressure. I am not sure if you would be able to tune a gutted/modified exhaust system to run properly even with a PowerCommander.

As loud as aftermarket pipes can be, there is a certain amount of engineering that goes into them, and not just metal bending.

If loud AND HP gains are what you are after, then aftermarket pipes, air box changes, and ECM changes are what will give you the most performance, without sacrificing rideability.

Just my $0.02. I could be wrong.
 

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Yes the meanstreaks pipes can be gutted out. But myself...I would just save my pennies and dimes and buy a set of pipes when I can. Remember that you can also use 1500 classic pipes if you change the right side passenger peg mount to a classic peg mount.

Oh and btw..you don't need an FI controller for just pipes. The stock ECU is smart enough (BARELY) to compensate for the change. If you get any popping on decel you have to plug the EPA lines though. all you need to do that is a marble. :)
 

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Oh it is not supposed to pop like that. Guess I will find the lines and plug em ASAP. Thanks :lol:
 

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What do they do and are they hard to install? Besides stopping the pop on de-accel do they serve any other purpose?
 

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Sorry I havent responded until now noj70.
Coasters replace the reed valves on the front of the front cylinder and rear of the rear cylinder. The reed valves help by injecting air into the exhaust system to help pass emissions..which in turn causes pops on decel with aftermarket exhaust that flows better than stock.
As far as ease of removal and install...you can do it in an average of about 30 minutes to an hour. Depending on how much beer you drink. :)
All you have to do is remove the lines running to the reed valves and plug any open hoses left and remove 2 bolts on each valve. Replace the reed valve with the "coaster". If you are careful you can re-use the reed valve gasket. If it tears it's no big deal..just use some liquid gasket of your choice..as long as it's HI-TEMP!!
The only thing hard about this is getting your hands and a wrench into the small space between the radiator on the front cylinder and the battery area on the rear cylinder.

BTW on the hoses left...I removed my hoses and plugged the big fitting under the tank with a cap. This is not something that must be done..but it removed some of the hoses under my tank and off my cylinder heads and cleaned up the engine area some. :) If you decide to go that route just be careful when you pull your tank! :shock:
 

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I know this thread is 5 years old but maybe I can help someone else?
I removed my baffels and gutted the cat and still it was not very loud, A big pain in the butt for the resultes(very little) that I got from it!
By the time you remove the baffels, cut open the cat, gut it and weld it back together you could work some overtime and buy a set of V&H.
 

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After moving the rear baffles, there is a second set up the pipes, and these can be dealt with by taking a length of deformed rebar (20mm) (reinforcing steel), and sharpening up one end on a bench grinder to look like a chisel, hold the rebar along side the pipe and you will see if you look under the pipes where they end so mark on the rebar with a piece of electrical tape the tail of the pipe (they are different lengths). get a friend to help hold the bike and their leg against the pipes, then stick the rebar up the pipes, tapping in with a sledge hammer, when you meet resistance and the taped mark on the rebar has not reached the end of the exhaust, and beat the living jesus out it. When you are nearing the danger zone, take a large pipe wrench and twist the rebar around and around, until you can pull it backout.

Not ear shattering loud, but you will enjoy a great throaty rasp.
 
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