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For a Mobile 1 product, I would use their Mobile 1 Racing 4T Motorcycle Oil. I think "Racing" in the name is kind of a misnomer, in regards to street use anyway.

For my 1981 KZ650-CSR, I have used Shell Rotella T 15W-40 regular in the white bottle. It has the Japanese JASO-MA rating. I also use Chevron Delo as it's also a heavy duty engine oil marketed for diesel engine use & both usually go on sale at various places.

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Regular Mobile 1 Synthetic 15w50 works great and it's a lot cheaper than their motorcycle version.
I recommend using only Jaso certified motor oils in motorcycles. Back when his bike was new, car oils were okay but today they don't have the additives a motorcyle engine needs to survive long term and they are too slick for the wet clutches.
 

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15W-50 is probably too heavy for an air-cooled In-Line 4 cylinder, especially up North. It might be fine during Summer in places where it gets hot hot hot.
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Going out on a limb here but guessing even 20w50 would be within original MFR's spec for the noted motorcycle - depending on ambient temps (especially for air cooled motors - not so much if water cooled). Gets very hot up north (Canada) in the summer (i.e. riding season) and running 20w50 would be perfectly acceptable. I regularly ran 20w50 in 80's inline 4 Hondas for years but have tended to go with the wider spec 15w50 since synthetics became more widely available.
 

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I recommend using only Jaso certified motor oils in motorcycles. Back when his bike was new, car oils were okay but today they don't have the additives a motorcyle engine needs to survive long term and they are too slick for the wet clutches.

The JASO MA spec only has to do with whether the oil is rated for wet clutch operation, that is, whether the oil has friction modifiers. (Rotella T6 Synthetic is an option if strict JASO MA rating is important). Wider rated synthetic oils (like 5w50/10w50/15w50) tend to not have friction modifiers which may compromise wet clutches; I've used plenty of those oils over the years and never had any issues with clutch or starter slippage. I just avoid oils that have "Energy Conserving" (or "Resource Conserving") on the API seal.


 

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Auto oils today don't have additives like zinc that the old oils had and they don't protect the cams like the old oils did. If you start a newly rebuilt flat tappet cam engine with todays oils the cam will be wiped out pdq. Special breakin oils have to be used in those applications. Stuff like that is why I don't use anything but motorcycle oils in my bikes.
 

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Auto oils today don't have additives like zinc that the old oils had and they don't protect the cams like the old oils did. If you start a newly rebuilt flat tappet cam engine with todays oils the cam will be wiped out pdq. Special breakin oils have to be used in those applications. Stuff like that is why I don't use anything but motorcycle oils in my bikes.

But there are various auto oils, particularly for diesels, that have elevated wear additives (although some people think that's going to change) that are rated JASO MA.
 

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By VulcanDrifter: But there are various auto oils, particularly for diesels, that have elevated wear additives (although some people think that's going to change) that are rated JASO MA.

Heavy duty oils marketed for diesel engines typically have the anti-wear additives, particularly ZDDP. The MSDS should list the amount of ZDDP (or its equivalent, depending upon the mfg). If not listed, then I won't use it. I use Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo, because they're the least expensive. Valvoline Premium Blue is another heavy duty oil, but I've never seen it on sale at a price remotely comparable to the other two.

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May be entirely fake news but interesting take on the subject: Motorcycle Oils vs. Automotive Oils
That research may be valid but it appears to be very old judging from the prices quoted for oil.

A member of the venture rider forum has bought old 83 and 84 V4 Ventures for $1200 or less and put 200k or so miles on them touring the country, a total of 5 Yamaha Ventures with the water cooled v4s and shaft drives ridden approximately a million miles in total. He said he used the cheapest Dollar Store oil he could find in those engines. He claims to have ridden them hard too such as hours of 100mph across the southwest desert.
 

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I don't really keep up on oil. I just use one of the three I found recommended here when I first joined about 10 years ago. Those are Rotella T, Mobil Delvac and Chevron Delo. All are 15W-40 diesel oil and I use conventional and not synthetic because I am cheap. This last time I went with the Mobil Delvac because it was about a buck cheaper than the Rotella T at my local wally world.
 

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Going out on a limb here but guessing even 20w50 would be within original MFR's spec for the noted motorcycle - depending on ambient temps (especially for air cooled motors - not so much if water cooled). Gets very hot up north (Canada) in the summer (i.e. riding season) and running 20w50 would be perfectly acceptable. I regularly ran 20w50 in 80's inline 4 Hondas for years but have tended to go with the wider spec 15w50 since synthetics became more widely available.
I agree but with a "but". For the engine, sure, I think 20w50 is fine even up north. The problem I've found is with the clutch- it tends to get "sticky" with heavier oils in the cooler mornings when in NC mtns. I notice it as warm as 50-55*F. When started in 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled in, the bike will lurch a little. Not an issue with 10w40 or 10w30.
 

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I've always just assumed the 20W-50 & some of the other heavier oils listed in the owner's manual were for Summer use or otherwise hot or extreme conditions, maybe racing, but the service manual doesn't mention the oil in the racing section.






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I've always just assumed the 20W-50 & some of the other heavier oils listed in the owner's manual were for Summer use or otherwise hot or extreme conditions, maybe racing, but the service manual doesn't mention the oil in the racing section.
And generally I think so too. I won't make a special oil change but if the timing happens to fall right, I'll use 20w50 in the middle of the summer. Otherwise 10w30 or 10w40 is fine for me. But (there's always a but) mine is a different engine. Being water cooled kind of negates the need for heavier oil as there aren't huge temperature swings like an air cooled bike.
 

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FWIW, I used Castrol full synthetic oil when I first bought my '84 Kawasaki inline 4 'cause I thought synthetic was the best. I soon began having clutch slippage issues. Then I learned about the importance of using JASO MA rated oils in these old bikes. Personally, I now use IPONE 10-40. I even contacted them to confirm that the oil did contain the right amount of zinc to reduce wear on the valve lifters. ('can't remember the proper parts per million) I've got 140,000kms (87,000 miles) on the old girl now and she still runs great!
 
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