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Workin' to ride
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Discussion Starter #1
Went to the store looking for the Mobil 1 V-twin synthetic that Rich talks about and could only find this. My 900 is supposed to have 10W-40 so I bought it. Any thoughts? Planning on putting this in for the first oil change at the break in service. Here's a link:

Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40
 

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Is she Blonde?
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yes second oil change went with this. have not noticed any difference in performance or shifting but hope it is better protecting the engine
 

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Minimizing the Regrets!
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Ya done good! It's fantastic oil and will offer great engine start-up protection. Also outlasts all of the other dino oils in viscosity duration. If you are going to run it for 5,000 miles, I'd suggest changing the filter at the mid-way point and topping off the oil level.

Bob
 

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Workin' to ride
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys, I was hoping I wouldn't have to go back for something different. I found it at the autoparts store of all places for $9.45/qt.
 

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Premium Member
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I have run synthetic (Amsol) for over 6K and have had it tested and found no need to change the filter prior to the oil change.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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The "Racing 4T" (used to be called MX-4T) is the 10w40 equivalent of V-Twin... same blend, lighter weight.
You'll be fine with it as long as temps remain below 100 degrees.
Even then, I wouldn't sweat a couple of hot days... I just wouldn't go for an extended road trip with temps that high without switching to 20w50.
 

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Minimizing the Regrets!
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I have run synthetic (Amsol) for over 6K and have had it tested and found no need to change the filter prior to the oil change.
Good to know on the testing results. I have never tested any oil before but just can't help but remember the tranny, clutch and engine are bathing in the same oil in a lot of cases. For my peace of mind and for the minimal cost of a filter, I will probably still change it out. That's just me though and for the record, I've never gone past 3k miles even with synthetic without a complete service. Some will say it's a waste of money which it certainly could be, but it also puts my attention on the bike, tires, fasteners that may have come loose and general hands on with the bike. Like I said, it's just me though but I do notice how much smoother the bike shifts with fresh oil in it.

Bob
 

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I have been doing the internet self study on oils. As with the internet, some info is old, opinion, or just wrong. However, I have studied with this in mind. Regarding oils labeled as racing oils, there is a possible problem. Maybe someone can verify. I am not stating this as fact, but, Racing oils don't contain near the detergent additive that "normal" oils have. Racing oils, in race vehicles, never stay in the crankcase very long. Frequent changes are the norm. Detergents can cause plug fouling in race motors, so the oil manufacturers largely leave out that additive package. The may also leave out the pH buffers found in "normal" oils. If true, you lose the advantages of a detergent package meaning sludge can build up. Acids created may not be buffered properly. Maybe the OCI in bikes is short enough to not be an issue, but for me, I like additive packages. Its the most modern technology.

rick
 

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Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40, the boys and i run it in all 5 of our bikes, im kind of a mobil 1 fan myself, back in 95 & 96 i machined and built 20 454 big block chevys for a test plot for mobil 1 out in SW Kansas on some hard pullin irrigation wells, the test also included 20 new 454's and 502's all runnin on natural gas.
6 qts oil @ 3000 rpm x 24 hours a day = around 1440 miles a day.
x that by 7 days =10,080 miles a week
x that by 30 days =43,200 a month
Miles per hour were figured with a 373 gear running 60 MPH =3000 RPM
I dont have any test results anymore but compared to dino oil it was very cost effective to run. Samples were taken daily some sumps were changed daily some weekly and others monthly, one engine was left as a sacrificial lamb,it was untouched and around day 35 it puked a couple rods it was one of the new 502's, it was found that after the natural gas conversion the air filter was not installed correctly and it had been suckin dirt,bugs from day one and jelled the oil, this is a harsh enviroment hot, constant RPM, and pullin hard.
I was showed data regularly i didn't apply myself to understanding it all (short attention span) but compared to other name brand oils used in the test mobile1 was superior or as good as the best of em.
I docuumented all crankshaft journal diameters and cylinder bore diameters of all 20 of the engines i machined, i like to hold cylinder bores within +.0003 and -.000 from nominal average size of a set of pistons, and -.0003 + .000 on crankshaft journal diameters which is easy to do once you get the first shaft ground, anyway after tear down inspection showed wear property characteristics of mobile1 far exceeded that of dino oils and other syn blends.

So as part of my compensation i received 2 55gallon drums of regular ole 10w 40 syn, of which i have 1 full drum left and cant use it for our wet clutch motorcycles unless somebody knows of an additive i can add at oil changes.
 

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Also learned at that time synthetic does not grab ahold of dirt and emmisions? like dino oil does, so looking at a dipstick to determine if oil is clean is not advisable, change filters regularly and run quality filters both air and oil.
 

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Also learned at that time synthetic does not grab ahold of dirt and emmisions? like dino oil does, so looking at a dipstick to determine if oil is clean is not advisable, change filters regularly and run quality filters both air and oil.
I'd argue that is wasn't dino vs. syn, but rather, detergent additive package vs. none. The detergents are supposed to emulsify the particles and keep them suspended. Absent detergents they settle and don't show up on your dipstick.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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I have been doing the internet self study on oils. As with the internet, some info is old, opinion, or just wrong. However, I have studied with this in mind. Regarding oils labeled as racing oils, there is a possible problem. Maybe someone can verify. I am not stating this as fact, but, Racing oils don't contain near the detergent additive that "normal" oils have. Racing oils, in race vehicles, never stay in the crankcase very long. Frequent changes are the norm.
True, but.....

Mobil-1 "Racing-4T" is simply a marketing name. It's not the same as automotive "racing" oils. It used to be called "MX-4T" but Mobil felt that they were losing market share to Castrol and Valvoline because people felt that it was a motocross oil and not for street bikes.

Same with "V-Twin".... it's a marketing name for the 20w50. Normally, air-cooled V-Twins run hotter on the rear jug so they require 20w50 under nearly all temperature conditions. Not true for liquid-cooled V-Twins... they have nearly the same operating temperature ranges as an inline 4, so 10w40 is perfectly suitable for ambient temperatures from -10c (14f) to 40c (104f). If higher temperatures are expected, and it will never be cold-started below 0c (32f), then 20w50 is perfectly acceptable.

Both Mobil-1 V-Twin and Racing-4T are API-SJ/SH/SG/CF and JASO-MA.
Mobil 1 Motorcycle Oils
 

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08 900 Classic. 3 weeks ago I changed from dealer oil to Rotella T 5w 40 synthetic. (500miles) Within 300miles I had mis-shifted 5 times,(1st-2nd)and couldnt get bike to go in gear(N-1st)three times, Read the forum,dumped the oil ,added Mobil Vtwin 20w-50,400 miles later,no misshifts,the 900 seems happier. Thanks Rich
 

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Mobil 1 and Amsoil bike oil are two of the best synthetic oils out there, stay away from "semi synthetic" or blended oil, they are a waste of money, they don't tell you how much the blend ratio is? 50/50, 90/10 who knows? BB
 

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wisdom is IQ, not post #
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I run it and felt it helped shifts versus the stuff from the factory. I almost didn't buy the Mobil stuff when they changed the packaging to say racing, most racing oils break down incredibly fast and are only good for a few runs down the strip, not 3k miles. Did some research online and then used it after finding out it was the same. I've since switched to Royal Purple which was the same price buying a case online and I think is a better oil. Either one is good though.
 

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I just switched from motul to mobil 1.It runs and shifts the same but I hear a little more engine noise than with the motul blend.
 

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Workin' to ride
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Discussion Starter #18
Just wanted to give a big thanks to everyone that chimed in...this is an educational process for me. I'm pretty good at maintaining and repairing teeth in a biological machine, but this stuff is mostly new to me. Special thanks to you Rich and Highway for your wealth of knowledge shared. This is what it's all about. BTW, I am absolutely loving my new 900 custom, it is a really nice machine. Steve.
 

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Professional Couch Surfer
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Where do you guys find your oil locally? I've called around (AutoZone, Checkers, Wal-Mart) and no one seems to carry the Mobil-1 V-Twin 20W50 oil.

I ended up finding it on Amazon (6-pack of 1qt's) for <$60 delivered (and a $10 Mail-In-Rebate until the end of May).

However, since the VN900 takes over 3qts, I'm going to need to find a spare qt somewhere for the next oil change.

Autozone claims they have the M1-108 filter for $13 in stock (1 of them).

Where else does everyone shop? Internet sites or?

--Sam
 

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If AutoZone doesn't have the Racing 4T or V-Twin oil in stock, they should be able to order it. That's where I bought mine from (4T, and the V-Twin was also there) - off the shelf, along with the M-108 filter.

I've also seen the M-108 filter at NAPA, not sure about the oil though.
 
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