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I have a baffling ignition problem on my Mule 1000. The problem started with one of the cylinders missing. I pulled the spark plugs, which were pretty new, and they looked fine so I cleaned them up and replaced them. I also replaced the spark plug wires as they were still the originals. When I started it up it was still missing. Next I switched the two spark plugs and tried again and the opposite cylinder was missing. That told me it was a bad plug so I replaced both plugs and it ran just fine. Problem solved... or so I thought.

About 2 weeks later it started missing again. As I was determining which cylinder was missing I made an interesting discovery. When I pulled one of the spark plug wires the cylinder started firing briefly as I removed it. I found that if I left the wire very loose on the plug it ran fine. I left it that way to see what would happen. A few days later the other cylinder started missing. Same thing. I used it for a while with both spark plug wires very loose. Eventually it started missing again and finally wouldn't start at all. With another new set of plugs it again started right up but it wasn't long before it was missing again. I pulled both plugs, grounded them with the spark plug wires attached, and ran the starter. One fired and the other didn't. Then I pulled the plug that wasn't firing away from the ground while running the starter. When I got about 1/8 inch away it started firing, also sparking between the plug and the ground.

I changed brands of plugs to the exact NGK plug recommended in the manual. Again, after running fine for a while it started missing. The plugs are not fouling, just a very light coat of black carbon. I have gapped the plugs to specs very carefully. Once the plugs stop firing they seem to be permanently ruined. No amount of cleaning will make them work properly again, although they will always fire at least for a while with the plug wire pulled back so that it is not quite contacting the plug.

My nearest Kawasaki dealer is as baffled as I am. I hate to haul it in for repair if it is a simple fix. The dealer says the electronic ignition module can't be tested, but the first thing he would try is replacing that. Unfortunately, he wouldn't know whether it fixed the problem until I used it for a while, and at that point I pay for it whether it helps or not. If I am going to try that I might as well replace it myself, but I hate to spend that much without being pretty sure that is the problem.

Any thoughts? Many thanks.
 

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Mule 1000 having same problem

I'm having the same trouble with my plugs, begins to miss out, then won't start, pull plugs, same light black coating, clean plugs and it still won't start, Install new plugs and it fires right up, but I have not tried running it with the wires slightly pulled back. If you have corrected this problem I could sure use some advice. The dealer I called said, if it runs good on new plugs it is not ignition, coil etc. related.
thanks
 

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i think that you will find that it is the module, about the same thing happen to my helix. new. module and it works fine,
 

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Mule 1000 plug fouling problem appears to be fixed, we finally broke down and took it to Fly's ATV Repair in Shepherd, Tx. they put in 2 carb kits for a Bayou 440, new plugs, new plug wire boots and changed the oil and 2 weeks later, it's still running great and no fouled plugs,
$ 325.00 in repairs that I should have done a couple of years ago. I hope this helps someone else, good luck.
 

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GenePete, did you ever solve your problem? if so would be interested in details. my 89 mule does exactly the same thing. thanks,ryesel
 

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The ignition system coil only produces the voltage necessary to ionize the air fuel mixture in the gap between the plug electrodes and jump across it. When the center electrode is carbon fouled the electrons may take a path of least resistance and run to ground via the carbon on the outside of the porcelain. Unless you have a spark plug cleaner or can burn the carbon out it will quickly reform the carbon at the tip and go to the wrong ground again. When you put the series gap in the circuit with by sliding the boot and wire back some off the contact, you raise the voltage to jump that gap and it doesn't have a chance to misfire as the voltage goes as intended across the gap. To clean unworn carbon fouled plugs I use the smallest tip on a jewlers oxy/acetylene torch my Dad had and use a excess oxygen mix and it will burn the carbon off the electrode all the way down to the base. Use caution as I've blistered a couple and had the electrode crack when I wasn't gentle enough. Keep the heat moving right down along side the electode. There a couple fairly inexpensive tools on the tool trucks to measure KV on the plug wire, I have a Snap-on one that lets me come close to the firing voltage like one does with a lab scope tye engine anaylzer. With the tool on you could series gap the plug wire and actually test the coil output with good results. They should be able to deliver between 30 - 40 KV with electronic primary switching. As a comparasion some of the modern cars are capable of 80-90 KV if needed. It is a real shocker when you get in the way of one of these. I would think any good shop would have a coil tester around, but probably no one understands how to use it and the directions are misfiled or gone. I sometimes look at garage/estate sales for one of the ones outboard shops have as I'm sure it would be adaptable to any coil. A shop with one of the old Sun tune up testors may have a coil test built into it and I've tested a variety of coils with it. We seem to be into a parts chaning until it gets fixed mode sometimes and that really bugs me.
 

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mule starts good, runs for short distance and dies. so far have changed plugs and replaced ignitor with used one from ebay purchase. problem still exist. noticed while cleaning positive battery post was getting light shock when my arm touched frame. is this normal. could i have a coil problem.thanks.
 

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I have used parts from a Mule 1000 that I am selling. I have a used ignition module and coils that I would sell for $75 plus shipping. The mule it comes from ran well but has a bad transmission. I am converting it to run on an electric motor with batteries so I don't need the engine and other related parts. If you are interested let me know by replying to this message
 

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I will sell my mule 1000 for 650.00,if ne one wants it.It does not have tires(has wheels).The rods are missing but as far as I know ever thing else is there. I Got 2 new .50 os pistons and rings for it as well as 6 or 8 spark plug and a manuel. Make me an offer( would consoder trade for a non running(or running) golf cart,85 or newer. Live in Nara Visa New Mexico, could meet part way if needed. 575 4038913 Larry or eagle0459atgmail.com
 
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