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I hate to bring this back up, but did anyone figure out a hotter plug than the BMR2A that is spec'd? I have these same issues and in the course of my use of the Mule, it idles sometimes for a few minutes before it gets revved up.

Anyone care to shed any new light on this old subject? Thanks
 

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have the same unit...same problems..
check the air filter. Likely oiled up and plugged...shows most accumulation on the bottom wall of the filter.See if it runs good with the air filter out...justy to try not to opertae with it out. There is a rubber tube entering the carb housing ...from the manifold. It seems this line allows fuel to enter the oil and in turn contaminates the air filter. I am not a mewchanical person but I read this was Kawasakis poor solutioln to avoid environmental issues. I removed the robber line from the carb and let it hang....No more problems....I am working on clutch cable today as it is I suspect rusted and in sub zero weather it seizes solid. I have just about runs out of profanity in trying to take the cable out and replace it. Almost seems like you have to remove a floor plate to do it. Of course screws are all rusted in place.
Anyway, while I'm out there today I will take a picture of this rubber line and send.

Hope this helps

Trapper
 

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My brother had the same issue. It's the FUEL PUMP. Think about it... it has gasoline and it has access to the engine's oil reserve.

I hate to see so many people trying all of these expensive repairs and getting nowhere.

Good Luck.
 

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There are several issues to this.

1: the thermostat sticks open. Engine oil never reaches operating temperature, fuel vapors build up in the crankcase and the oil never gets hot enough to evaporate those fumes.
2: the engine is not designed originally for use on the Mule. It is a lawn mower engine which was designed to run at 3500 RPM under load at all times. In the Mule, it runs at low load, low RPM most of the time and the engine never gets warm enough to evaporate the fuel vapors.
3: check the valve clearance, air filter, intake system, and the PCV hose.
4: check the carb. Sometimes the float valve will stick and flood the engine. Usually when this happens, it hydraulically locks the engine, requiring removal of spark plugs to extract the fuel.
 

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A friend of mine just got a 2510 that had one plug fouled. After reading on this web sight I changed the oil that was over full and smelled of gas, put NGK plugs in, cleaned the carb bowl out, put a new air filter in...the old one was very dirty and oil saturated. I also too the pcv hose out of the box and put a differential vent in the end of it. I never ran a mule before and it seemed very noisy. Is that the nature of the beast? It has a Mr Gasket fuel pump # 42S on it. The specs say it has a 40 micron filter and have a flow rate of 28 GPH at 2-3.5 PSI but I wonder what pressure it build to. Do you think this pump is too much for the mule and causing the fouling problems? I also bought a 2510 mule yesterday that appears to have the cam gear busted in it. Is Kawasaki the only place to buy these parts? They told me there was a serial # break as to what replacement cam it took. I did find a used cam with steel gear but if there are 2 possibilities how do I know what one it would take?
 

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A friend of mine just got a 2510 that had one plug fouled. After reading on this web sight I changed the oil that was over full and smelled of gas, put NGK plugs in, cleaned the carb bowl out, put a new air filter in...the old one was very dirty and oil saturated. I also too the pcv hose out of the box and put a differential vent in the end of it. I never ran a mule before and it seemed very noisy. Is that the nature of the beast? It has a Mr Gasket fuel pump # 42S on it. The specs say it has a 40 micron filter and have a flow rate of 28 GPH at 2-3.5 PSI but I wonder what pressure it build to. Do you think this pump is too much for the mule and causing the fouling problems? I also bought a 2510 mule yesterday that appears to have the cam gear busted in it. Is Kawasaki the only place to buy these parts? They told me there was a serial # break as to what replacement cam it took. I did find a used cam with steel gear but if there are 2 possibilities how do I know what one it would take?

the 3.5 psi pump will work fine. It won't shut off when it reaches 3.5 psi (the OEM one does shut off when pressure builds), but it'll pump fuel.

the camshafts in the early 2510's were of a plastic gear. The later 2510's and all the 3010's, 4010's had a steel gear, and is what I would recommend to use as a replacement. The catch is, to use the metal gear'd camshaft, the drive gear also has to be replaced. If not, it'll whine like a gear drive on an old small block. Also, while the cover is off, I usually like to replace the water pump and all the gaskets.

Noisy is subjective. Mine is really quiet, as compared to, say, a Rhino or a Polaris Ranger. They aren't silent but they are supposed to be quiet engines.
 

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I pulled the engine and took it apart to find 4 teeth on the plastic cam gear broken off and a tooth off the water pump gear gone too. I think while I have it apart I will hone it and put new rings in it too. Is there a place that sells the parts for wholesale on the internet? I need a muffler and would like to find a hard black plastic top too.
 

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First off, if any Dealer told me this, I would RUN! "Kawasaki's answer: "Live With It".
The problem is that Kawasaki has an electric fuel pump in the Mule that provides too much pressure for the float/needle to shut off the gas flow. I fixed my 2510 by buying a Holley fuel pressure regulator (#12-804) 1-4 lb pressure (not the higher pressure regulator)(reviews don't like the Mr. Gasket regulator). I installed it between the pump and the carb. The only problem with that is that the regulator doesn't work at really low flow rates so I had to "T" into the fuel line after the regulator with a restrictor in it (##46 drill bit) and run the line back into the fuel tank to increase the fuel flow. (one could also "T" into the fuel line before the filter/fuel pump for the return rather than directly into the tank). The alternative fix could be to install a gravity feed small tank above the carb. so gravity fed the carb. One could use a small tank and have the electric pump fill the tank. One would have to either have a float switch to turn the pump off when the tank was full or have an oversized drainback line.
 

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P.S.

Others have cited that Dealers simply said that the engine was designed for generators or lawn mowers and need to be run wide open. What a bunch of BULL. The engine was designed to use gravity feed to the carb. which is a lower pressure than an electric fuel pump and the float/needle can shut the gas flow off rather than it running down into the oil.

I bought the Holley #12-804 on Amazon and set it to it's lowest pressure. So far it's working fine. One could also use as a restrictor a needle valve (like the old-timey fuel shut-off on lawnmowers) rather than making one and using a #46 drill. It would then be adjustable. I ran the excess fuel back into the fuel tank by making a fitting that went in place of the fuel gauge (mine was clouded and useless anyway) Hope this helps!
 
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