[JamesQB]

Hi,

I've got one of our Mule 3000s ready for removal of the gearbox, but I can't take it completely out until I remove the plastic back of the CVT belt cover, which in turn I can't remove until I've removed the centrifugal plates unit which is on the crankshaft.

I've removed the bolt in the center, taken off the little fan/cover assembly but the pulley won't budge. I'm assuming interference fit onto the crankshaft, can anyone confirm? Is there a proper way or a proper tool to do it, or maybe someone's done this and made their own tool that works or used a good method?

If anyone has the service manual and can pass on what that says as well until I order my own, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks,
James

 

[Fuelman]

Sorry, no help here I have not got my manual yet. When I do get it I will copy it to PDF so I could help someone else with some info when they need it. Seems that people that have one sure dont like to give up any info.

 

[Harry Balzac]

Removing the front converter pulley requires a special tool. Its a threaded rod about 8 inches long that pops the pulley loose. I've never tried to remove one without it.
Also, if you're going to remove the transmission (gear box) you're going to split the rear axles. Make sure they are indexed (put marks on the inner and outer halves) so you can line them up properly when you put them back together.

 

[JamesQB]

Thanks for the replies. I've just ordered a manual myself, and will gladly help anyone who wants information from it when I receive it.

Regarding the special tool, could you give me more details on it, please? How exactly does it cause the pulley to be freed? Not too sure what you mean about splitting the rear axles, I don't know where they can be split.

Many thanks,
James

 

[Harry Balzac]

Splitting the axles: the gear box is connected to the wheels through two drive shafts (in the car world they're called half shafts). On each side they are mated through splined shafts under a pleated rubber boot. Peel back one edge of the rubber boot and you should be able to see where the axles separate. In order to remove the gear box you've got to separate the wheel half of the shaft from the gear box half of the shaft. But I'm sure you know this: what I meant to say was before you split the half shafts mark them so the universal joints are lined up on each side.

Ah, the special tool: It's a rod about 8 to 10 inches long with a threaded portion about a third of the way down from a 19mm head. The internal portion of the pulley is threaded to mate to this rod. As you screw the rod into the mated portion (I'm getting hot here) it puts pressure on the crankshaft and forces the pulley off the shaft. Whew, that was good for me, was it good for you?

 

[YurFatMom]

I usually grab a long bolt that matches the threads in the pulley and use that. I havent came across a clutch that couldnt be removed with that method, as of yet. That way I dont have to spend $$$ on a special tool.

 

[JamesQB]

Thanks to both of you for your replies. Harry, that was good for me too. I think you should start writing servicing manuals for adults, you could make some good money. I'd buy one, even if I didn't own the vehicle.

I've since bought a service manual and now understand about splitting the shafts, and I will indeed mark them prior to removing them - thanks for that bit of advice. Out of interest, when replacing the axles to the leaf springs, how do you ensure they go back in exactly the right place, as they seem to move quite happily along the leaf spring and so in theory could be tightened up on any part of it?

Yurfatmom, I'm now in the process of tracking down a bolt of the correct size (M14 x 1.5mm by at least 4" length, I think in Imperial that's something like a 9/16" x 18 threads per inch bolt). Surprisingly difficult here in the UK it seems, but I haven't given up yet.

Incidentally, if anyone needs any pages from the manual, etc., just say and I'll forward them in PDF format.

Thanks again,
James

 

[YurFatMom]

I get the bolts at a John Deere tractor dealer here.

 

[Harry Balzac]

I don't separate the springs from the didion tube (the big axle carrier thingy). I drop the whole thing at the point where the springs attach to the frame. The two nuts on each side at the spring shackles and the single large bolt on each side at the front of the spring. Also the small (10 mm) bolt that holds the brake line to the spring on the right side. And of course the shock absorbers.

I had to replace the right outer axle half on a new 3000 yesterday. I tried for the first time to hang the didion tube from the frame with a couple of straps so that it kind of floated as I pushed it to the side to separate the axle half. It worked pretty well. I replaced the axle in just over an hour. Plus by using those straps that have the ratchet mechanism, I could raise and lower the didion tube to position the shock absorbers when I put them back on.

 

[JamesQB]

Thanks for that advice Harry, I did the same thing today and separated the axles with relative ease. Just waiting for someone to thread a bolt for me to use to remove the front converter pulley.

After taking the driveshafts out of the gearbox while it's still in situ, I found that pooled at the bottom of the hole where the lefthand one went was a pool of metallic sludge that also contained some rather large pieces of metal (2 - 3mm some of them). Looks like I was right to suspect some kind of damage inside the box for the terrible grating, clattering, grinding noise it was making which was my reason for wanting to remove it. Just wonder what the damage is now.