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Does anyone know what to do with my mule 610? When ever it's real cold out it wont run and it blows the dipstick out of the crankcase. Iceing up some where. Any ideas would be great.
 

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Follow the line from the fuel pump back toward the engine and to a small plastic canister. The canister is your problem. Remove it, warm it, and dry it out.

It is an oil separator, and it collects engine water vapor and freezes. Then the crankcase pressure will not vent, and it blows the dipstick out.

Then warm up the engine and change your engine oil and filter, so you get all the water that is trapped in the engine and oil out of the system. When it is cold you want fresh oil or the problem will return in short order.

After you change the oil, remove that little canister and clean and dry it again, then it should be good for all winter.
 

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What is the problem when it is now 90+ degrees outside & the engine blows the dip stick & oil out of the crank case? I have replaced the fuel filter & the fuel pump because the engine would run & quit in the winter & seep out of the fuel pump vent. And, yea the crankcase over fills with gasoline. I was told the over fill covers the pump pulse line & makes the engine run rough & quit. But after all the repairs, now the dipstick keeps blowing out of the engine and oil sprays all over. And the engine won't stay running. Any ideas what is actually wrong. The 610 only has 275 hours on it.
 

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could be float sticking. Or float valve not sealing properly. How is it used? Lots of idle time? Short duration trips at low speeds? Run wide open full speed on the governor for a few minutes down a road or trail?

As I've said before, the engine is a generator engine. It's designed to run full throttle all the time. In the Mules, they commonly get run at lower speeds for short distances and a lot of them sit and idle for extended periods. Both of these conditions cause vapors to build up in the crankcase. Sometimes there's enough humidity in the air to show up as milky oil. The cure is to run it harder, like the engine was designed to do in the first place. I generally recommend running low range on the governor from time to time, for a few minutes at a time, this helps to get the engine oil temperature up which boils off any vapors and condensation.

Also I just recently ran into a fuel pump that had a diaphragm that was allowing fuel to get into the crankcase, so that could be an issue.

Also-when the 610's first came out, we were advised that some people would haul them backwards on the trailer. Meaning back it up onto the trailer. If you look at the air intake, it's at the top of the roll bar in the back side of it. What was happening was at highway speeds, the 65+ MPH air would actually pressurize the roll bar, which is directly connected to the air box and eventually the carburetor-which caused engine flooding. Solution, cover the intake or haul it the other (right?) direction.

Also engine oil overfilling from the get go. Must be checked on flat surface. And the stick should be inserted in the proper direction. It can be put in backwards but it doesn't want to be (has to be kind of forced in). In most cases, filling the crankcase until it's ONLY between the checkered markings on the stick is sufficient. It doesn't always need to be at the top line-which is the "high" mark. The bottom line is the "low" mark. In between is perfectly acceptable.

Also valve adjustment can cause issues. Intake valve gets a little tight and causes more reversion in the intake tract, which doesn't help matters any.

Those are a couple random thoughts on this situation, for what they're worth.
 

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I am having this issue right now. Real frustrating. Only when real cold, like below zero. I have the same use as the others, limited use most of the time, short errands around the yard and almost never get up to temp during the summer. Then in the winter I use it a lot for ice fishing and plowing. When I finally get up to temp, it blows the dipstick out and but the oil is not milky, actually real clean. It's a 2016 with only 65 hours on it. Pretty frustrated, should have bought something else. There is another, longer thread on this and they say the dealer knows about the problem. I'm going to talk to them before trying these fixes myself. I really want to thank you guys for the answers though, I was really scared I had blown a motor on a new machine just after the warranty was expired.
 

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Don't worry about the engine unless the governor is disconnected or modified. The engines just don't fail. Well unless they're run out of oil, and even then, they'll run for an hour or so with zero oil in them at full throttle (experience speaking). They don't make enough power to hurt themselves. I think I've personally see a few thousand 600/610's and only seen 2 engine failures and both of them were due to lack of lube oil in the crankcase. One, owner did an oil change and put engine oil into the transmission. He said it ran about an hour before noises started happening. The other was due to a loose oil filter.
 

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My Kawasaki Mule 610 2007 misses and dies if not pressing the accelerator. New carburator, new air filter, new gas filter, changed oil & filter and still have the same problem. Suggestions pls.
 
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