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I have a 1999 2500 mule with a v-twin kaf-620. Its over temp lite began coming on so I inspected the fan and found it not spinning. I jumped the wiring , fan came on and lite went off. I baught a 70 dollar fan switch and still, same problem. Fan does cycle but not enough. I removed the thermostat. Same problem. I removed the impellar housing, impellar is in good conditio and spins when I bump the ignition. Any suggestions ? Thanks
 

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Check to be sure the cooling system is fully evacuated of air. That requires following the procedure in the manual, cracking the bleed screw, and raising the front end enough that any trapped air can roll uphill to the radiator or the capture tank.

Also, it is a good idea to make sure that once it is fully evacuated of air that the water is actually circulating through the radiator. The radiators do plug internally if the coolant is not kept maintained and changed as required.

Because the belt is turning the shaft to the impeller does not mean the impeller is turning. To check that it requires removing the bypass hose from the pump housing and spinning the engine over with coolant. If coolant squirts under pressure, then the impeller is turning.

Take a look at the parts diagrams on Kawasaki.com. You want to look at the one for the water pump and the one for the radiator.

Whatever you do, do not let it idle and get hot expecting the system to burp the air. It will never clear the air by itself while running, and and you will warp a head and blow head gaskets.

It is not a good idea to run these without the thermostat. That can lead to cold shock of the engine if you are working it really hard and then start coasting down hill. The rest of the time the engine just simply will not get to operating temperature and will have poor fuel economy and running issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Overheating-

RCW, thank you for for help. When you spoke about the impellar. I need to get some clarification. I said I removed the housing, and bumped the ignition and saw it spin. Do you think it still may be broken ? I agree, removing the hose and checking pressure is a sure thing. I have already aquired the parts breakdown on the h20 pump and radiator. I see the shaft with shear pins on each end. I guess it would be possible one is sheared and is tite at a stand still and free's up under higher R's. I grabbed it and it was locked in.As you said , the radiator may be plugged, I bought this about 2 yr.s ago. The radiator fluid looks newer>?:"}! but the air ? I can't help but wonder how in the heck did it get air in it to begin with. I'm sure thats one of the worlds wonderful mysteries. By the way, can you tell me where the bleed screw is ? and thanks again for any clrification.
 

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Unless you actually disassembled the water pump from the engine block, you can not see the impeller. When you remove the cover all that you see is the drive and shaft turning. Not really sure what you did, but take a look at the parts diagram on Kawasaki.com and you will be able to confirm you were looking that the real impeller and not just the shaft turning.

If the antifreeze has been there over two years, that is far too long. They should be drained, flushed, and new antifreeze every two years to prevent the antifreeze from turning acidic and eating the engine and heads through from the water jacket.

You really need the service manual to find the cooling bleed screw, and then follow the procedure for bleeding the cooling system that is outlined therein.
Failure to do so will fry your engine. It is not difficult to find if you trace the cooling lines back to the engine.

If you have
 
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