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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I've ridden my 1600 for a couple thousand miles now and thought I'd post a report

Overall I love the 1600. My previous biking experience consisted of a lot of dirt bikes and my old 440. The largest thing I had gotten on before the 1600 was a 550 Yami. The weight is really unwanted, but I'm learning how to manage it. Needless to say I was scared ishless driving it home from the dealership :twisted:

First gear goes to 45 mph, 2nd hits 75, third over 100. Fourth and fifth are both overdrive. I spend most of my time in second and third. The bike seems to have no top end- pulls harder at 2500 than 4500. Plenty of torque though, just seems to end a little early. Maybe tuning will even it out.

Mods-
Hardkrome 3" Big Straights
Thunder intake with verticle S&S style cover
Powecommander usb
Rifle 22" Classic L with lowers
Phatrisers II
Utopia backrest
F/S Lightbar
F/S Engine guard
Kuryakin grips and highway pegs

Taking it down to North Carolina this week for a custom map :twisted: I'm driving the bike to work when its not raining then I try to find some twisties every weekend. I've got the rear shocks set to 4/5 and damping rebound at 3. I'm still trying to find a good setting- the rear of the bike really sinks in spirited cornering and I'd like to stiffen it up, but don't want to sacrifice the smooth ride. Any recomendations for a 250 lb driver?

The bigger bike does ride a lot smoother than any of the smaller bikes I've rode. Brakes are great. I've yet the lock the front, but I've locked the rear once. I've scraped both floorboards and slid in gravel. Never had any problems handling the bike in any of these situations. The bike does not like deep gravel though. I haven't taken it down many dirt roads, but don't think I'll be trying much off-roading with this bike.

Had the dealer do the first oil change at almost 600, then did the second at 1600. Plan to do the next at 4000 and switch to synthetic. My dealer tells me that synthetic oil will make my bike run cooler.

Only problem thus far was the bike got stuck between gears shortly after my last oil change. I was at the local dealer earlier that day and some guy had an 800 drifter with the same experience. Dealer told him that it happens and not to worry about it, so I'm not either.

At 2,000 miles and running strong.

Phatboy
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you insist =P The blogging continues:

I did the last oil change myself. When I took off my oil filter the filter adaptor came off with it. Yhe adaptor is supposed to be torques to 80 ft/lbs and the filter 40 ft/lbs, but the two came off together. I had to take the filter to the dealer to change the cartirage. Basically the adaptor wouldn't come off short of my fabricating a tool to remove it :cry: The dealer changed out the cartirage for no charge. I could just use the old recalled filter if the adaptor comes out again, but I think I'll just mention it to the dealer at the 4000 mile service so he can tighten it to spec. Oh and the dealer here had a special 39 dollar oil change too. For the Kaw brand oil and the filter plus a can of plexus ran me like $42.

The hunt for vibrations continue. The vibes hit at 35 in second or 40 in third. I live off a 35 mph road so this happens daily. I checked the wires in the headlight, zip tied some wires for my lightbar (dealer installed), and wrapped the speedo mounts with electrical tape. Most of the vibration is gone, or at least it is much quieter. I'm going to look for some foam to put around the wires to shut them up.

I don't mind the seat. Some people don't like the seat, but mine seems fine. I'm usually not going to drive more than a hundred miles, but I don't squirm in my seat. I'll see what it feels when I drive 700 miles this weekend. Between the highway pegs, backrest, windsheild, and grips I think the ride is very comfortable. I need to keep my stock passenger seat for my backrest so I might just cut out some foam and put in a gel insert if my seat gives me butt-burn. There is a VROC guy out there who sells seats- trade yours in towards a new seat w/ gel or different foam, but my attempt to contact him was thwarted by a spam filter =(

Thats enough rambling for the night.

Phatboy
 

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Discussion Starter #5
And it shall! 2800 mile update:

My dummy light for the gas is out. I amlost ran out of gas with 175 miles on the trip odometer. I'm refueling at 150 miles until I have the dealer fix the light.

I was cleaning my bike and noticed a little discoloration. Now I'm not sure what this peice is- it protrudes from the rear cylinder near the exhaust- but a little bit of something leaked/dripped there. I'll have the dealer check it when I take it in.

My suspension needs adjustment. The rear end of my bike seems to like to fly off the ground over bumps. I have the spring set at 4 and the rebound damping set at 3. I think I need to turn the damping up or the springs down. Can someone help?

Phatboy
 

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Phatboy:

If you refer to the rectangle shaped piece attached to the cylinder wall near the rear exhaust port in your last post, then it's only air that should circulate there. The hose that attaches to the piece comes from one of the air solenoids. From there the air gets to the exhaust port for remaining fumes to be burned. Of course, there might drip some oily residue from exhaust gases or just condense water. All in all, you might just survive with tightening the bolts (not too tight, it's plastic). There's also a gasket between, your dealer might change it for warranty.

I'm not sure if you got heavy weight on the bike whole the time, but the spring set at 4 seems quite much. I use it at 1 or 2 and rebound damping set on 2. This seems quite natural to me when driving alone. Using the spring set 4 means your shock absorber travels much greater (it's relative) distance, thus making your rear end bounching slowly up and down.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm 250 lbs and the bike is loaded with asseccories. No passenger. I'll be playing with the suspension until I get it right. At the stock setting 2 for the springs and 2 for the rebound I was bottoming out over large bumps- so I bumped it up to 4 as soon as I got it home.

Now what you're refering to Strictly VN1600 is the reed valve, correct? They'll be gone soon enough. I'm refering to a oval shaped peice with a little cylinder coming out of it. It is right below where the exhaust comes out of the rear cylinder and right above the oil cap. No hoses on this peice.

Thanks for the advice.

Phatboy
 

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Okay, now I get it :D The thing you're seeing is the camchain tensioner. It has also a gasket, but it's important not to tighten it straight if it's loose. It should be taken off, reset and installed again. This way you'll spare yourself from a possible chain failure. But.. better take it to the dealer and let the warranty do the job.

Oh yeah, I was refering to the reed valves...just not the valve itself. And I too notice some oil leakage from various places when I haven't washed my bike for a while. The amount though is almost zero so I'm not worried at all.

I couldn't write a single report from my 1600. Because it haven't had a single problem since I bought it a year ago and after 8000 miles. But I could mention a couple of times how much I love it!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It doesn't have problems in order for you to post a report. I've just enjoyed reading Caddyman and Bikeaholics' reports on their bikes and wanted to do one.

Phatboy
 
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