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Discussion Starter #1
So i am sure this has been askedddd butEverythread had different variables that make the situation different. Therefore, I thought I would try my hand at asking, So I bought a bike 1995 ninja 500. The idle was just horrible but the price was right.

IT would die anytime it would idle like almost immediately, even when shifting of that brief of being off the gas it would die. The owner said the gas was old. So today I took out the gas and drained the bowls. I put in new gas, and added some seafoam. Ran it for a bit at about 3k rpms low and behold the dang thing idle, still kinda rough but hey its not dieing..step in the right direction, I drive it around a tad. Stop and let it idle again..and again it stays idling. Yay! Problem sort of solved..maybe not. I let it sit again and came out later to see if everything was till working out. I start it up..it idles for a few moments then sputters out and dies, I try again…And it dies….I smoke a cigarette in anger. Come back try again and it idles, for a few minutes and dies..
So does this sounds like dirty carbs to you guys? Maybe a carb sync? I need some experet opinions. I canlled a show and they said a carb clean and tune would run me $250 other then idle the bike runs great.

P.s. what is a good idle for a bike? 900? 100? Less more? Sorry for the nub questions.
 

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The larger older 4's would idle around 1000-1500 rpm warmed up. How fresh are the sparkplugs? properly gapped? air cleaner not clogged? fuel filter clean?
Sparkplug caps good? they can age and break down giving lousy idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no idea, I dont know where the air cleaner is yet, And i dont know how to take off the tank yet to access the plugs and or carbs.

I am 3 days into a owning a bike heh heh
 

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Get a shop manual, it will identify the parts you can service.E-Bay has them once in a while and if no luck try Repair Manual Catalog Online - RepairManual.com It might be a few $ but has all the specs you need.

Another choice would be either a Clymer or Haynes manuals for your bike( I don't like them because their wiring diagrams are in black and white and hard to read).
 

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if the gas was old i would probably pull the carbs and clean those suckers good. jets might be gummed up, fuel lines as well. seafoam will help but it would be best to get those things apart and get them cleaned out, and probably replace fuel lines/filter.

and go ahead and do a tune up while youre at it...it couldnt hurt since you probably dont know the last time it was done. as suggested air filter, plugs (which might be fouled...?).

and shop manuals are awesome...i have one for my ZX-6 and even though i havent had to use it much yet ive read through it a bit and can see how it is going to help in the future, even if there is stuff i know i wouldnt be confident enough to do i can still make sure the shop knows what im talking about and that they cant mess with me! i like being prepared :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tiny update, I am getting some better results, If I turn the choke on it idles fine, I let it warm up on the choke and then I back off it, and it idles without the choke…a bit rough but no death after about 15. I figured, seeing as I don’t go anywhere on it yet, the seafoam is having no chance to realy do what it is meant to do. I dunno.
I still have some seafoam left..anybody mix it in with their oil? I heard it leaves a crap tone a smoke lol.
 

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Being an unknown - I'd definately change the oil. Sure, put in some seafoam, run it around 5 miles warmed up, then change it. Definately before you do a long ride.

Oh, the ton of smoke is when you suck some in through your vaccuum lines (car) and run it. I get no smoke when adding to oil.
 

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yea...if you get smoke when you add it to your oil then the piston rings are toasted. but you would get smoke anyways because oil would be getting past the rings and burning!

but suck seafoam in through the brake booster hose in a car and just wait. you could use it as a smoke screen! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well had it fixed, turned out to be a bit more than a carb clean. Something about a floater valve or whatever was broken, and they said the oil filter on the bike looked like it was 4 years old, the guy said he can’t wait to show it to me.
So they fixed it all, They ended up only charging about $50 more then what I was quoted, But with that extra 50 they replaced the valve, changed the oil, and gave me all new fairing screws since the ones on the bike looked like they were mix and match from home depot.
Cant wait to pick it up.
 
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