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· Registered
19 Posts
Aside from the great advice you've received, whenever I get anything
used, in-spite its condition, I go with a Stage 1 Operational Approach:
yours has moisture buildup internally, forget external cosmetics!

I throw 1 litre of heavy-duty Injector Cleaner into the gas tank, ride it
for a bunch of kilometers/miles to get a sense of mechanical overall
performance plus blow out whatever the prior character did or did not
do with proper maintenance. CHOKE-out condition you reference is
symptomatic of this kind of engine/tranny state.

Then go do the basic all-fluid change, new plugs, u-name-it and check
fork oil status, etc.

As for you query about oil: no set answer since engine sizes vary etc.
so you need to check a shop manual, or call your local Kawi dealer:
that is free 2 second advice over the phone.

However, most Kawi's appear to be 10W-40 based from the factory...
so make sure it's motorcycle oil, and not car oil which now-a-days
cheapens the engine wear additive package (which is why you never
want it unless you don't really care about engine longevity; and be
prepared for disagreements on this point due to dispersed intelligence
out there on this topic!)

Mobil makes an EXTENDED filter which I use since in my opinion ALL
motorcycle filters are completely UNDERsized! Or else flip it Between
oil change intervals! **** good engineering in Kawi stuff so you
can't go wrong! (Having owned Suzuki, Honda, Harley!)

And have a great Valentine's Day doing all that!!!

· Registered
19 Posts

You also should check the condition of the inside of the tank. Often times when bikes are neglected like that, moisture builds up and causes rust and corrosion. Also if gas sits for a long time it will cause corrosion as well. This corrosion is also likely what is causing the bike to idle/run poorly. Run seafoam or B12 per MFolks suggestion, and if that doesn't clear things up after a nice long ride, then you will probably need to take the carbs off and clean them really well. If you are doing a lot of other work to the bike, it might just be worth it to take them off and clean them anyways.

Oh, and don't forget to post some pics when you get her to presentable condition! :)
Great comments! PS: I see you have a cute "bugs" commentary on
your signature line! In case anybody out there is interested in new
ideas for Rides, a local group thought up a "Bug Splat" contest:
after a Ride, the rider with a bug/s closest to the center of the given
bike's windscreen, wins the Ride Prize!!! :tongue: :wink: :shock:

· Registered
19 Posts
Filter Washing


Putting the old air-filter back on looks like it did the trick. The old lady next door almost fainted when the 800 roared to life. :D I did not change the air filter because the local dealer was out. I suppose now I'm going to order the K&N filter.:bd:
Thanks guys! You made my day! -Tim.
8) Hey, Tim, nice to read you've solved things this fast!:lol:

As for Air Filters, just for your confidence, I've been WASHING
my car paper filters for eons now: they'll cycle maybe 2 to 3 times
before I decide on a new one. Same applies to bikes, vacuum cleaners,
anything using the paper medium! So all I'm writing is that it works!

My system: own TWO. As one is drying, the other is in the application!
It's a common sense point.

If you get K&N, you're going to have to wash it too! Differently yes,
but nevertheless it will need the same level of care and attention.
(So, I own two K&N for the bike. I stick with paper for the car.)

Many don't know it but you can use any transmission oil to re-soak
a K&N after it is cleaned and thereafter replaced on the vehicle!
Useful to know if you're not fussy to use the over-priced K&N product
or just don't have the cleaning kit the first time you clean it! (And,
can clean it with WD40 or whatever: "roughly" cleans it up to be
cleaner than when removed!) - virgil:cool:
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