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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
Just traded my museum piece (1986 RM125) for a 96 (???) kx250.
I'm going through the bike now but have no idea how to find the year.

I don't know how to set the idle. The plastic looking screw on the carb just turns and turns.

Need to buy a manual, but need to know which one is best to get. (after I figure out the year).


Just changed oil. It was black, and had slight metal shavings in the oil.
I'll continue flushing it for the next few weeks.

Gota check air filter now. It has aftermarket airfilter stickers on it, so i'll see what's inside.

The carb manifold (rubber) is cracked slightly (too deep for comfort), but isn't leaking atm.

Front forks need rebuilding cause they left their sad mark on my garage floor.

Clutch lever is broke 1/2 off, clutch handle boot is torn, kill switch wires exposed, gas tank filler cap missing vent hose....

Other than that, seems decent. I'll have to doctor her up for a little while.
Does anyone know where I can get some kawie green Fuel-proof paint for the frame?

I've washed her once (1 hour session with simple green) but still needs a few more baths. Might switch to castrol super clean to get the stains off the engine. She's soaking in some black magic tire wet at the moment.
The farings have some weird clear tape stuff all over them. I'm pealing it all off, but it's a pain.

anything else I should do while i'm at it?

If anyone can throw me some info about these questions, i'd appreciate it.

Thanks!
Mike
 

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Dirt Bike Dad
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you can find your bikes VIN on the neck behind the handlebars. Do a search for VIN #'s on here you will find the table.
Once you find out your bikes year model get a manual. I use clymer, but there is better.

The clear tape sounds like it was there to protect the stickers / fairing.
You can buy a magnetic oil drain plug that will help remove those shavings. If there is a lot then you might want to attack that first.

There should be a small brass air screw just behind that black plastic screw on your carby, this is for adjusting idle, but you should also check float level and pilot jet.

Really a manual will get most of your questions answered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My manual says for 1996 kx250 : SE, SF or SG SAE 10w-30 or 10w-40 for transmission oil.

You can get a clymer manual that covers from 1992-2000. Its not the best, but it does the job.
Thanks,
I usually try and get the service manual for my toys, but am having trouble finding it (haven't searched incredibly hard yet).

Should I save my money and get the service manual (if it exists?)?
 

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Hi all,
Just traded my museum piece (1986 RM125) for a 96 (???) kx250.
I'm going through the bike now but have no idea how to find the year.

I don't know how to set the idle. The plastic looking screw on the carb just turns and turns.

Need to buy a manual, but need to know which one is best to get. (after I figure out the year).


Just changed oil. It was black, and had slight metal shavings in the oil.
I'll continue flushing it for the next few weeks.

Gota check air filter now. It has aftermarket airfilter stickers on it, so i'll see what's inside.

The carb manifold (rubber) is cracked slightly (too deep for comfort), but isn't leaking atm.

Front forks need rebuilding cause they left their sad mark on my garage floor.

Clutch lever is broke 1/2 off, clutch handle boot is torn, kill switch wires exposed, gas tank filler cap missing vent hose....

Other than that, seems decent. I'll have to doctor her up for a little while.
Does anyone know where I can get some kawie green Fuel-proof paint for the frame?

I've washed her once (1 hour session with simple green) but still needs a few more baths. Might switch to castrol super clean to get the stains off the engine. She's soaking in some black magic tire wet at the moment.
The farings have some weird clear tape stuff all over them. I'm pealing it all off, but it's a pain.

anything else I should do while i'm at it?

If anyone can throw me some info about these questions, i'd appreciate it.

Thanks!
Mike
1) Forget about an idle unless you plan on technical trail riding. Your engine will decellerate much quicker without and idle.

2) You DEFINATELY need a manual. I HIGHLY recommend the good ol' OEM Kawasaki service manual. Clymer manuals suck, period.

3) If you are not prepared to spend money, don't go any further, cause it sounds to me like your KX250 has been all to familiar "beat hard, and parked wet" and i am willing to bet, as you start to dissasemble parts you are going to find a LOT of hidden issues well beyond just what you see now...

4) Buy a tube of antiseeze, you're gonna' need it.
 

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the intake manifolds are actually pretty thick and the crack would have to quite severe for it to leak. They look bad and people worry. I've had one 12 years older than that and it did not leak. I use one that looks like a dry river bed and the carb is not supported. It doesn't leak. When the reeds go bad I'll put on an aluminum Rad valve.

All these toys are expensive. I find it cheap to buy entire bikes for parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll get her fixed up.

The trans is in good shape and there are no engine oil leaks. Overall, in decent shape. Just needs some TLC.
Fork Seals aren't expensive. It's more of a PITA to replace them.
Everything is pretty solid on the bike other than mentioned above.
As long as the trans is good, i'm sure I can rebuild the rest.
 

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I always demand to see the air filter and air box for just that reason.

I'd be pulling the intake and looking at the cylinder walls and piston.

I have seen really old filters that just fall apart when you touch them, but that was on a machine that sat for years cause electrical failed. That looks as if it was never serviced and was sucked into the motor and after that straight dust. Or your best hope is mice used it to make a nest somewhere else and the bike was not run like that.
 
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