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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought a KLX300SM. It's my first Kawasaki and I'm impressed. It's been modified to suit my use which is daily utility transportation..

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The bike has been lowered front and rear to an unsprung seat height of 30 inches, so my feet can reach the ground flat.

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I installed alloy clip on bars on the tops of the fork tubes when I lowered the front 2 inches. Koubalinks were used to lower the rear.

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An aftermarket exhaust woke up the engine and dropped the weight by 5 pounds. This combined with other weight saving mods lowered the curb weight to 295 pounds..
 

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Welcome to the club tooter!
Nice bike and nice diet. What was total weight savings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, :)

Stock curb weight for the SM is 304... for a reduction of 9 pounds. It was 12 pounds before adding a 3 pound rack. I'm going see if I can get the curb weight down into the 280's..

I weigh 140, so including 10 pounds of gear the total bike + rider weight is 445 pounds. Even a modestly powered motorcycle can perform well when it's not weighted down. :)
 

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It's a light bike to begin with so you have done well to shave off 12 pounds before adding the rack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I specifically got this model because of the weight. Most new bikes are insanely heavy.
 

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2" seems rather a lot to lower the front forks, are the top yoke clamps clamping fully / correctly on the forks?
A modification to the 250KLX / SM air intake snorkel helps to increase power, the original restricts the airflow. ('m not sure if the 300 has a similar set up). On the 250, a KX 200 snorkel fits which has a larger oriface. In Indonesia those aren't available so i made one from sheet steel and it works fine..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
2" seems rather a lot to lower the front forks, are the top yoke clamps clamping fully / correctly on the forks?
A modification to the 250KLX / SM air intake snorkel helps to increase power, the original restricts the airflow. ('m not sure if the 300 has a similar set up). On the 250, a KX 200 snorkel fits which has a larger oriface. In Indonesia those aren't available so i made one from sheet steel and it works fine..
The clamps are fine.
I lowered the rear about 4 inches.
The unsprung heat height is only 30 inches.
I can't ride high bikes because I'm 5'5".
Now I can flatfoot both feet when stopped.
It makes the bike so much less tippy.. :)

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Thanks for the snorkel idea. :)
I haven't got around to messing with it yet.
 

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The clamps are fine.
I lowered the rear about 4 inches.
The unsprung heat height is only 30 inches.
I can't ride high bikes because I'm 5'5".
Now I can flatfoot both feet when stopped.
It makes the bike so much less tippy.. :)

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View attachment 43098

Thanks for the snorkel idea. :)
I haven't got around to messing with it yet.
On a KLX 250 forks, the top clamping 'shoulder' is 54mm (2-1/8") long, so the maximum they can be lowered without compromising safety is 20mm (3/4" approx.) Maybe the 300 top yoke clamps and fork shoulders are different? (i thought they were the same)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
On a KLX 250 forks, the top clamping 'shoulder' is 54mm (2-1/8") long, so the maximum they can be lowered without compromising safety is 20mm (3/4" approx.) Maybe the 300 top yoke clamps and fork shoulders are different? (i thought they were the same)
While a small portion of lower part of the top clamp is just slightly off of the upper shoulder, the lower clamp is on a uniform area of the fork no matter where it is clamped. There is no place for anything to possibly move.

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I did the same thing on my DRZ400SM and rode it over 30,000 miles with no issues. :)

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I also did the same thing on my Honda Grom and rode it over 10,000 miles with no problems.

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