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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just got a new set of Avon Venoms for my '96 classic and haven't got them on yet, the local tire shop here can mount them but not balance them, I'd have to drive into Vanacouver to do this . Is it really important to balance the tires??? The guy at the tire shop said that he's only ever seen 1 M/C tire in 10 years that actually needs balancing. The rest were fine as long as the rims were balanced to start with. Anyone have any expertise with this ? I'm thinking that the new avons are probably balanced from the factory I can't see them selling wonky tires.........Any comments?
 

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Which vancouver are you talking about? BC or Wash?...I'd be interested in the outcome of this topic too...I'm far away from a tire change but still is good info for the old memory box.
 

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i balance all my wheels at every tire change

motorcycle wheels are like any other wheel as far as balance the big difference
is sometimes you get lucky mounting the tire and it really don't need a balance
sometimes you do - just the position of the tire on the rim can change the balance of the
wheel .it does'nt take very much weight to balance a bike rim may be 1/4oz in front
a tad more in the back depending on the wheel style.i'm a little confused about the wheel
being balanced to begin with? no wheel is perfectly balanced that i've seen and the addition
of a tire to a "balanced wheel?" is going to throw it off anyway-especially if a tube is
involved.the weight of a tire/tube is unequal around the rim causing a heavy spot somewhere and weights are used to counter this.honestly on your bike with tubes and spokes i would have them balanced just to insure a smooth ride,but if you don't it will
just cause a vibration at certain speeds and maybe some premature tire wear

you can balance them yourself with some weights and a couple of old crates with the tire
between them:



o use the most readily available method (Milk crates and good wheel bearings or a homemade equivalent) you simply take your wheel and tire assembly (with the axle) and prop it up in the crates so that the wheel rotates freely. If you notice that your wheel has a jerky motion to it or it seems to come to an abrupt stop check and/or replace your wheel bearings. Also while you are watching your wheels spin you can check the wheels, rotors and tires for any out of round (up and down) or warp (side to side) conditions. Should you find either, fix that problem before going any further. The reason is that and change made, such as replacing or refacing a warped rotor, could change the balance of the wheel assembly negating all your hard work.

Give the wheel a good spin so that it spins for a little while before stopping. You want the first couple spins to be fast so you loosen up the grease in the bearings. Mark the high spot with chalk. Spin again and mark. Do this at least three times. Now you should have three or more marks most likely in the same area of the tire. The mean of all the marks is the light spot. Tape a wheel weight in place temporarily, with scotch or duct tape. How much weight to use depends on how far apart the marks are. If they are far apart use less weight. If they are closer use more. Spin the wheel again, mark the high spot. Is it the same as the first set of marks? Tape on a larger weight in place of the smaller. Does the wheel stop at a place 180 degrees around from the first set of marks? Remove the first weight and replace with a smaller weight. Continue this until your marks are random when you spin the wheel six or seven times.

Your next step is to semi-permanently attach the weights to the wheels. Using the tape weights makes this pretty easy. Remove the backing from the glue surface of the tape weight and press onto the wheel in the exact location where it was taped. Of course this area must be cleansed of all grease, oil and dirt for the tape to stick well. Next apply a bead of sealer around the edge of the tape weight and, with a moistened fingertip, smooth the sealer around and over the weight. This will help keep dirt and oils from between the adhesive tape and lead weight or the wheel surface.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Vancouver B.C.

I'm actually from Sechelt a small town NW of Vancouver B.C. to get to the nearest MC shop that can balance I have to take a Ferry and then fight the traffic it's kinda an all day thing, I think I'll try the spin on the egg crate thing and see how it works out, I'm sure my local tire shop will give me some of the stick on weights, now the other question is should I pull off my old weights first? I notice I've got a good sized lead weight on one of the spokes not sure if thats some kind of factory weight or what..... Has anyone else done the spin at home method and how has it worked out? Thanks for any input....I'll maybe try and do it this weekend and let you guys know how it turns out
 

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yes-remove the old weights before re-balancing
and if this is your first tire change that's the factory weight on the wheel

i'm curious why you chose venoms? if you don't mind me asking :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Venoms

The Tire guy I got them from told me that he's gotten nothing but rave reviews for them, The Vancouver Police are now using them on their Harleys as well, I looked at Metzlers, Continentals and Bridgestones as well, My bridgestones that I have on now have cupped horribly probably due in part to the previous owner not maintaining proper inflation. It came down to the ME 88s or the Venoms the venoms seemed to have better rain channeling and a little more agressive look about them. I picked them up from Inernational Tire Corporation in Langley B.C. and had them shipped to my door for @ $420.00 cdn or $300.00us, the metzlers would have been about the same cost. The tire guy said that he's never had any complaints about them and said I should get about 50% more life out of them than the bridgestone excedras. He couldn't comment on the Continentals as they are fairly new and would have been about $100.00 less
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Avon Venom X review

Well it took me most of Saturday to get my tires balanced..... I used 2 axle stands on each side of the tire and what I discovered was that I was too picky I wanted it to be perfect but I think with balancing you just have to be close anyways after a couple of beers and some choice words I relaxed a little and figured that as long as I could eliminate the heavy spots the wheels would be balanced I stopped @ 5pm on Saturday, on Sunday I put the wheels back on the bike torqued everything as per specs and then went for a spin I couldn't believe the difference from the Bridgstones to The Venom X's They are so smooth and the bike just wants to fall into the corners. I've read where people say that the single biggest handling mod you can do is tires and now I know they are right. The classic is like a new bike with these skins on it :)
 

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sweeeet!! your actually one of the few i know running venoms on a classic
that's good to know that they work well on that bike 8)
 
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air pressure

hi , you were talking about your tires cupping because of bad air pressure what air pressure do u put in your tires??? the max indicated on the tire???






vulcan nomad 1500 2004
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tire Cupping

I was running the factory recommended pressures in my stock excedras, but what I think happened was that the tires were a few years old and were ridden each spring without the proper inflation just 5-10lbs down and eventually the tread starts to flex in ways it wasn't meant to. if you were to run your hand down the face of the tread you could feel the edges of the tread, kinda hard to describe but almost like a saw blade the edges of the tread were not in line with the next edge/L/L/L/ so that when you rode down the road at slow speeds it almost felt like you had a set of knobbies on. These new Venom X's are so smooth though it's unreal
 
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