Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a 1989 kx 125, and I can't get it to start; it has compression, and fuel, but no spark.

The previous owner said all the bike needed was a new spark plug wire, and thats it (the old wire didn't have a spark plug cap, and was just a frayed wire tied to the end of the spark plug). So, now I have replaced the plug wire, and also installed a new cap, but still no spark.

I shouldn't say absolutely no spark, however. When testing for spark (letting the tip of the spark plug touch the cylinder head), I will now and then get a healthy blue spark. This only occurs when I hold down the kill switch, and then let go of it immediately after kick starting the bike. To me, that doesn't make sense. Is that how it is supposed to work? If I am starting the bike, I shouldn't have to deal with the kill switch at all. Thinking the problem was the kill switch, I took it apart and cleaned the contacts on the inside. Nothing changed.

The coil pack looks to be fine, as do the rest of the electrical wires. Anyone have any ideas? my foot is getting sore with all this kicking over...

thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
It sounds like the kill switch is bad. You can either replace it or remove it completely. If you remove it make sure the bike won't idle or you will have to stall it in gear. But remove the shrouds, tank and left radiator and chase the wires from the killswitch on the bars down to where they meet the wiring harness near the coil and see if the wiring is bald and ground to the frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It sounds like the kill switch is bad. You can either replace it or remove it completely. If you remove it make sure the bike won't idle or you will have to stall it in gear. But remove the shrouds, tank and left radiator and chase the wires from the killswitch on the bars down to where they meet the wiring harness near the coil and see if the wiring is bald and ground to the frame.
I will double check the switch using a ohmeter, but I dont think thats the problem. When the kill switch is removed, I dont see ANY spark, at all.
 

·
Real Men Ride Rockets
Joined
·
201 Posts
I had a bad coil on mine I just replaced recently so I would not rule that out. Your service manual will tell you how to check that. I had a lot of people tell me that was not the problem till I checked it showed bad the new coil fixed my problem It was not so bad that the bike would not start, but it was getting to that point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Little update. I checked out the Clymer manual from the library, and learned how to check the ignition coil as well as the stator coil. The ignition coil seemed to be within the working range, so thats good. I tested the stator and the two white wires (going into the engine) are an open circuit (should be between 4 and 6 ohms). So either the stator coils are bad themselves or maybe its the white wires themselves that are bad. Now I need to get my hands on a flywheel puller so i can dig a little deeper into this problem.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top