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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got a 75 kv100. It has been sitting for many years. I flushed out the tank and it looks good now. rebuilt the carb so the carb is good. it has over 3000 miles on it. i have a new battery and its not getting spark to the plug. I looked for any loose wires and see nothing. I get hot to the blinkers they light up but wont blink. nothing to the head light or tail light.

Any help would be great. is there any PDF manuals here?

thx James
 

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Welcome to Kawasakimotorcycle.org James.
Can you post the frame and engine numbers so we can be sure what we are dealing with?

We cannot offer or support copywrite infringement and thus links to free manuals are not permitted on this site. Your best bet is to look on Ebay or buy a third party manual like Haynes or Chilton.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello and yes thank you. g4 093063 frame. engine GE4 087324

I will buy one from amazon soon.

I just checked the ground and its good.
 

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Ok, what you have is a 1976 KV100 which is essentially very similar to the 1975 GRTRE in that it has a dual range transmission giving you 10 speeds. I do not have a manual for your bike. But the ignition is probably the same as the G4 which I have attached here. It does not have turn signals tho but it might help you trace out your ignition wires to see where the problem lies.


Schematic Font Parallel Engineering Plan
 

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There could be many thing causing your problem but the two most common are burned/dirty points and a rusty point cam causing excessive wear of the point rubbing block and the resulting closing of the points.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thx WFO-KZ
Looks like power goes to the ign switch and goes every where from there. So I need to take it off to see if there is power there. Hope you don't mind me asking more questions of you? i will need more info as I go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There could be many thing causing your problem but the two most common are burned/dirty points and a rusty point cam causing excessive wear of the point rubbing block and the resulting closing of the points.
I will look at the points and condenser tomorrow. I need to look up a video on the points so I know where I and going.
 

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Feel free to ask questions. There are several members here including of course 1981GPZ550 who can help you out.

Are you trying to register the bike for legal street use? If not, ditch the turn signals. These bikes had marginal electrical output at the best of times and with age, the output gets worse. Anything you can do to lower the load is a good thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK thanks very much. I would like to keep it street legal so I can run to the store or our local buke night here in Mesa Az.
 

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We can certainly help you get your turn signals working again but first order of business is to get it sparking again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Light Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Electrical wiring


Hello I have power to the white, brown and red/white wires with switch turned on two clicks. Nothing else has power. i am guessing the switch is bad because I assume I would have power to the other wires with the key turned. Any thoughts please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Motor vehicle Gas Auto part Wood Wire
Wood Kitchen appliance Gas Auto part Metal



Hello, Also what is this? I do not get any power out of it. Do I need to replace it? How would I check if it is good?
 

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Is the wiring dia. provided above correct for your bike? Did you use it to check the connections in the switch in all 3 positions listed? Not all the wires will have power at any of the switch positions. You have to use the connection chart as part of the dia. to see what is powered at each position. You should be able to track power from connection point to connection point and find where it stops. This is the best way to not spent money replacing a part that is still good, when it could be a bad wire somewhere in the circuit.

This is an OLD bike and the wiring / connectors could be bad ant any point. Where the wiring goes past the fuel tank forward mount is a place where wires can get damaged, also where they bend around the steering stem.

The part you show looks like it bight be the signal light flasher. Just guessing. Until you get the main power fixed you can't troubleshoot the signals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hello and thank you, yes the diagram is good for this bike. I did check the wires in all three positions and I only get power to the wires in the above post, nothing else. I am still assuming the switch is bad. I am going to open it up to see if the contacts are good.
 

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Don't assume. Test your switch using the wiring diagram. Just a quick look and The white is the battery and the brown is the horn, and the red /white is the tail light. They are only connected in the night position of the switch. So that part of your switch is working. There are 2 other pairs of connections in the night position, they get power from the magneto so no power until it is running.

Day connects the SEL wire to a different lead from the magneto with no head light or tail light, the battery still powers the horn.

Stop position disconnects the battery and grounds out the ignitor to turn off the bike.

Don't tear you ignition switch apart until you KNOW it is bad. It might be very hard to get another one.
 
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