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I am in a bind atm, debating whether to buy a car or a bike...

Looking at a few bikes Ninja ZX-6R, Ninja ZX-6RR, and the ZZR600. One of the biggest things that I am confused about (not a mechanic wizard by any means) are the differences in the 6r and the 6rr...rr seems to have less power yet redone components? Any easy explanation for me?

Last question, how durable are these?

thanks

Jeremy
 

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jnooney said:
I am in a bind atm, debating whether to buy a car or a bike...

Looking at a few bikes Ninja ZX-6R, Ninja ZX-6RR, and the ZZR600. One of the biggest things that I am confused about (not a mechanic wizard by any means) are the differences in the 6r and the 6rr...rr seems to have less power yet redone components? Any easy explanation for me?

Last question, how durable are these?

thanks

Jeremy
I don't particularly know the differences between the models, but as long as you keep the maintence up on the bikes you can put nearly as many miles as you'd like on it. I've put 3K in less than 3 months now with no problems on mine. I've been told 100K is easy to achieve with maintence (changing oil, lubing chain.)
 

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basically the ZX6RR is for the racing type, people who go on track days and are serious about performance, the suspension, gearing, and engine have all been tweeked to give more power and faster round to bends. if i were you i'd go for the ZX6R as they are by far the best 600 on the market
 

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Freakinout said:
jnooney said:
I am in a bind atm, debating whether to buy a car or a bike...

Looking at a few bikes Ninja ZX-6R, Ninja ZX-6RR, and the ZZR600. One of the biggest things that I am confused about (not a mechanic wizard by any means) are the differences in the 6r and the 6rr...rr seems to have less power yet redone components? Any easy explanation for me?

Last question, how durable are these?

thanks

Jeremy
I don't particularly know the differences between the models, but as long as you keep the maintence up on the bikes you can put nearly as many miles as you'd like on it. I've put 3K in less than 3 months now with no problems on mine. I've been told 100K is easy to achieve with maintence (changing oil, lubing chain.)

Basically as the post b4 me said the 6rr is more of a track bike.. If your going to be hittin the twisties hard I would want that but if not I just go with the 6r... Here is the link to Kawasakis page, you can check out the specs for yourself.. http://www.kawasaki.com/index2.asp


Spyder
 

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yep

also the rr is a 600cc for racing purposes. the r is not aloud to race in the 600 class because it has a 636cc engine. id go for the r
 

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CARS?MOTORCYCLES??

The Kawasaki.com site is the best place to SEE what you are getting into. basicaly the
Ninja ZX-6R...Liquid Cooled DOHC 16-Valve 636cc In-Line Four, Hi-Performance Ram Air Induction, Digital Fuel Injection w/38mm trottle bodies, digital ignition, 6 speed gearbox with Positive Neutral Finder, pressedaluminum/cast aluminum perimeter frame, fully adjustable 41mm inverted Cartridge fork, Fully adjustable Bottom-Link UNI-TRAC (tm) rear suspension with piggy-back resivior shock, 120/65 and 180/55 Z-Rated 17-inch Radial tires, dual 280mm semi-floating front disk brakes with radial-mounted 4positin calipers, middleweight performance champion, and it comes in four colors.
The Ninja ZX-6RR...Updated liquid cooled DOHC 16-valve 599cc In-line Four, Championship winning power and performance, Signacantly increased peak horsepower nd n torque, new Digital Fuel Injection with 38mm throttle odies, 32-bit digital ignition, Closer ratio 6-speed gearbox with back-torque limiting clutch, fully adjustable 41mm inverted cartridge fork with DLC (Diamond-like Carbon) coating, updated fully adjustable Bottom-Link UNI-TRAK rear suspension with piggy-back reservoir shock, dual 280mm semi-floating front disk brakes with radial mounted 4-piston clipers, improved performance delivers higher power-to-weight ratio, and it only comes in Kawasaki Green.
ZZR 600 Liquid-cooled DOHC 16-valve 599cc in-line Four, Twin Ram Air Induction system, 4 36 semi-downdraft carbs with semiflat slides, TCBI Ignition with Digital Advance, 6-Speed gearbox with Positive Neutral Finder, Pressed-aluminum/cast aluminum frame, 41mm fork fith adjustable spring preload and rebound dampening, bottom-link UNI-TRAC rear suspension with adjustable prelaodand rebound dampening, 120/60 and 160/60 Z rated 17-inch radial tires, dual semi-floating front brakes with 4 piston calipers, middleweight sport touring performance, only comes in Metalic Ruby Red. The ZZR 600 has a true two person up saddle.
Personally, I prefer the 2 Fuel injection models over the carbs, but that is a personal choice. some people prefer carbs...and the nice plush seat for a passenger. The best thing to do is to go to the Dealership and set on each of the models and then think about how you are going to use the bike. Check out the insurance in your area, and ask SEVERAL maintenance shops which of the bikes give them the least amount of trouble.
You may wish to ask the moderator and sponsor of this site for their opinion...afterall, this web is available only because of them...
 

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I think that the most major difference is the 3K is price difference between the 6R and 6RR. If you must have the newest model and pay the most right now, then buy an smaller model. Actually just go and buy an older, smaller model so if you drop it or wreck it you don't owe 6 grand on a trashed piece of metal.
 

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car vrs.bike

:shock:
Seriously...Before you get to wrapped up in all of this check into insurance. Then Consider which car that you are going to have to maintain, versus the bike that you are going to have to maintain. You may wish to do some dating...and that can be rough if she dosn't have a car. On the other hand the bike will get you around much cheaper, gas/oil/tires/maintenance, cleaning, brakes, even the insurance should be cheaper on a 250R. chat with an insurance agent, perhaps several of them and write down teh numbers so that you can set down during one of the daily summer rain sessions (you can almost set your watch to them) and then decide. I'm not trying to be biased, but the numbers will probably point to the new bike unless you have a really great car that someone else has paid for...about $3K for a new bike...vrs $#? for the car...GO Figure!!! :wink:
 

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If you feel comfortable riding in the rain, or have another ride when you need it, then get the bike. Otherwise, get yourself a car and a good job where you can get a bike later on. A car you can drive every day.
 
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