VALVE TAP
It's not very likely, but not impossible...I'd ride it and continue to listen to it and even on one of the rides take it over and let them listen to it. the mileage will be good for both you and the bike. The silicone thing is not supposed to be permanant...so you might give it a try...Riding some sistances will get th mosture out of not only the exhaust pipes but the crankcase as well...riding some distance is fairly critical...if you were to say ride it 3 or 4 miles to work and then 3or 4 miles home and never git in the road it wouldn't be a good thing for your bike...they need to be warmed up and run some distance at times. Having your exhaust pipe spray steam or leaking water may be because youare just breaking it in at this point and staying at lower rpm's...but the bike, even the books will point out that the hp/torque curbve starts really pulling at about 8,000 RPM all the way up past 13,000RPM, and you will find 14,000RPM yor redline. The bike engine is capable of holding those RPM's, unlike our old cars from the 70's and 80's where the redline was near 5,000RPM. The old Babbit rod Chevrolet engines couldn't hold up to any prolonged RPM's...now we find bikes and even racing engines like on the Bently with rev limiters set at 19,250 RPM's it's like aviation Wright Brothers to our current (Classified) aircraft flying over 5 times the speed of sound! Don't be afraid to twist that throttle and feel the power when you get her to teh break in point, and probably the most important thning that you can do is to keep a computer record and even print it out for a book on your bike...symptoms, sounds, squeeks, your noise at idle may be because you have more than one key on your keyring, or your tool kit is vibrating or a bolt and nut are vibrating...This is a great FOURM and we're all here to assist one another...