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Discussion Starter #1
It is now 01h04 am there by you, (Zoro) 09h30 here in South Africa, DONT TELL ME YOU GUYS ARE SLEEPING.

The problem is,when I leave the airmixture screw at the correct setting,meaning the same as the other 3 carbs the no 2 header is not heating up at idling.
When I turn no 2 screw way out then no2 heats up.

I"v checked both jets and made sure they are clean and not clogged,so the possibility of dirt is now eliminated.

Could it be the valves or shims.

What trickles me is,I"v looked at the tiny hole right at the bottom where the air screw goes into the carb,can that amount of exctra air make such a differance.
 

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hey kawfan, still up here in NY, same happend to me, drove me nuts :mad: it turned out to be the pilot jet, not the pilot screw seat. pilot jet inside the float bowl area, gotto remove the bowl and look for it on the side you screw it out clean it and put back in. I could not see through mine and carb cleaner was not getting it done so I took some electric wire took the rubber sheeth off, twisted two strands together and with that cleared the jet opening. this took care of my problem. hope it does same for you. Try it out and I'll chek back in tomorrow gotta go to sleep it's 3 am here and I have to be up by 8:00 am. Latter. max.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi MAX,mine is fine,took the plug with the o-ring out and checked the jet.
Put everything back,problem is still there
 

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It is now 01h04 am there by you, (Zoro) 09h30 here in South Africa, DONT TELL ME YOU GUYS ARE SLEEPING.

The problem is,when I leave the airmixture screw at the correct setting,meaning the same as the other 3 carbs the no 2 header is not heating up at idling.
When I turn no 2 screw way out then no2 heats up.

I"v checked both jets and made sure they are clean and not clogged,so the possibility of dirt is now eliminated.

Could it be the valves or shims.

What trickles me is,I"v looked at the tiny hole right at the bottom where the air screw goes into the carb,can that amount of exctra air make such a differance.
Hi Kawafan, I had a very similiar problem and did get it fixed. You are not telling enough to help us troubleshoot, though. My problem with #4 not firing was due to a too rich mixture (It was flooding at idle and not firing at all...the plug was wet). This I solved with overhauling the carbs, mostly the pilot system. Tell us more specifics if you want help (And you will get it and solve your prob. if you are willing to put in the work) Good luck, man
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi chocohills,the bike is not flooding at all,as a matter of fact it is actually running perfect when hot,there is n pop sound when closing the throttle on the left exchaust,almost like a soft backfire sound.
The problem is most noticable when starting when the engin is cold.
 

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Hey Kawafan, maybe I missed a post but tell me what's your bike? I am not an expert but I have just had a similiar problem with my bike which is a 1981 kz1100.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
QUOTE=chocohills;1911953]Hey Kawafan, maybe I missed a post but tell me what's your bike? I am not an expert but I have just had a similiar problem with my bike which is a 1981 kz1100.[/QUOTE]

Kawasaki Z1000 LTD 1982
 

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Goodmorin fellas! Glad you found eachother! Lets get this carb fixed! Kawafan,can you post that pic here? And did my email work? Waz up Kev? :wink: Glad your in on this! Kawafan, before we go any farther with this issue, you need to check those valve clearances. We can beat our brains out chasing phantoms in the carbs when the real problem may be a valve hanging open.Valve check first. Ok?
 

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Are these BS34 CV carbs? When you cleaned the pilot jet, did you also clean the passageway behind it to make sure it had good flow from where the jet screws in to the throat of the carb?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
At last,

Are these BS34 CV carbs? When you cleaned the pilot jet, did you also clean the passageway behind it to make sure it had good flow from where the jet screws in to the throat of the carb?
Good morning,almost time for me to go to bed,that is the one thing I did not do,although I sprayed carbcleaner and watched it blown out the other side.
 

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Glad you could make it Outlaw! The gangs all here! :wink:
Didn't see you on last night. Were you out prowling? :lol: I'm gonna go finish the work on my boat trailer today then I've got to wire a new connector on my other trailer. You gotta love it when you loan something to a friend and they bring it back missing parts. :mad:

I've never seen a BS34 with a mixture screw on the bottom or an air screw for that matter. Maybe I'm misinterpreting that last sentence of the original post.
 

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If you sprayed cleaner through the passage and saw good flow where it enters the throat of the carb that should be fine. Did you check the condition of the o-ring around the mixture screw on that carb? Have you replace plugs, plug wires, or caps on the bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Mmm Good idea

Goodmorin fellas! Glad you found eachother! Lets get this carb fixed! Kawafan,can you post that pic here? And did my email work? Waz up Kev? :wink: Glad your in on this! Kawafan, before we go any farther with this issue, you need to check those valve clearances. We can beat our brains out chasing phantoms in the carbs when the real problem may be a valve hanging open.Valve check first. Ok?

I am sure the root of the problem is there,any idea why it runs well when it is hot.
Another thing,those rubbers between the carbs and airbox are driving me NUTS,can I fit K&N filters or do they give problems.
 

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Another thing,those rubbers between the carbs and airbox are driving me NUTS,can I fit K&N filters or do they give problems.
You will have to rejet the carbs if you switch to pods. I ran them on mine for a few years but could never get it to have the same smooth throttle response that it does with the airbox. For lack of a better description, it was jerky coming off idle. Sort of like you went from a 1k idling roll to 3k like flipping a switch. If I happened to be riding on gravel this presented a big problem as the back tire would break loose. It also made slow speed maneuvers difficult. New airbox rubbers make carb work go a lot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I must say I prefer to keep it original as possible.
Maybe I must do a compression test when it is cold to see what is going on with that no 2 cilinder
 

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Did anyone mention that WE LIKE PICTURES? It started life as a younger twin to mine so I'd like to see some up close pics.

:worthless:
 

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I am sure the root of the problem is there,any idea why it runs well when it is hot.
Another thing,those rubbers between the carbs and airbox are driving me NUTS,can I fit K&N filters or do they give problems.
If your talking about pods they give big tuning problems for the vacuum slide carbs. Stargate made a good point on the pilot jet circuit being clean. That circuit needs air to mix with the fuel so it atomizes when it enters the carb throat.The o-rings on the air/fuel mixture screws need to be in good shape as well as the o-rings on the pilot jet caps in the bowls.If any of them o-rings fail to seal,the pilot circuit draws too much fuel and wet fouls the plug.Once the engine warms up and higher rpms are used,two things happen,the plug dries and begins to fire again,and the higher voltage to the coils via higher rpms,the spark gets stronger.Thats the explaination for why it wont fire at start up and idle and fires at speed.:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Zoro,I like your explanation.
Where will I find that " o-ring on the pilot jet caps"
When I took out the pilot jet there was no o- ring on it,or is it inside the jet opening
 
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