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I have a 2007 3010 gas Mule. Problems include: 1) when engine is running and in gear the machine will go very slow( wether in slow or fast or 2 vs 4 wheel). 2) When I remove the carborator (sp?) cover and disconnect the air vent tube, the motor runs better but still no full speed power. I have replaced the fuel, added heat, added gas treatment, replaced 1 of two spark plugs. I am at a loss. Would rather not take it to a local dealer due to their seedy reputation. Any help please and thanks.
 

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Since you say nothing about missing or loud rattling, I suspect you have kept the valves adjusted so that is not the problem. You also say nothing about hard starting, running out of power or dying only when hot, etc., so I do not suspect the ignition is the problem.

Given the above, I would suspect your problem is fuel related. Start by replacing the fuel filter and see if the problem is solved.

If not, then crack the fuel cap open a hair and try it again. If that solves the problem it is deterioration of the cap and clogging of the vent by the new fuel we have today.

If neither of those solutions solve the problem, then I suspect it has set around for a while and now has plugged carburetor passages from oxygenated (pump gas) fuel deterioration.

These carburetors look a bit daunting, but are pretty simple. But, they have to be removed and disassembled to be properly cleaned. If you do this, use a good quality brand name non-foaming carburetor cleaner so you can see your progress once you get it disassembled and all the gaskets and soft parts set to one side. Also, do not bend the float assembly, as they seldom need adjustment and almost always are just fine as found.

When you clean out the passages in the carburetor body, after complete disassembly of all the jets, do so with the needle on the carburetor cleaner and keep the spray away from your face and wear nitrile gloves. Do not use compressed air from a real compressor to blow anything out, that will blow out passage plugs and ruin the carburetor. When you have cleaned everything it is a good idea to use some compressed air in a can, like for a camera, to blow out the passages and dry everything before reassembling.

If you are going to take the carburetor apart, call the site sponsor and have them provide you with the jets recommended for your altitude. Proper jetting is just like getting a new engine. Also, go to Kawasaki.com and follow the Owner Info link to the parts diagrams and print out the carburetor details so you do not lose any parts.
 

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Have you checked the governor lever setting? The manual is a bit lacking in description, but good in the picture.

I found if you set it up as described (text), but not as shown in picture, that there is little power, and you'll do well to climb even a small incline.

The text states to loosen the lever clench nut, turn the governor shaft full clockwise (with a small nail, snap ring pick, or other right angle thing), turn the governor arm (long lever) clockwise as far as possible (to make it fully open the throttle valve, hold it there and tighten the nut.

Meanwhile, the picture shows something slightly different. It shows the accelerator cable also being pushed to the forward, pedal down, position.

Having the cable lever all the way forward is the important thing omitted from the text description. This action 'almost' requires a third hand, but two will suffice if your wrench is already on the nut, ready to tighten, while you 1) rotate the governor shaft clockwise, 2) if governor spring is detached from rear hook, move lever clockwise, 3) push throttle lever full forward, then 4) move left hand to wrench to pinch the clamp.

After performing the above, and with the governor spring reattached, verify that at full open pedal motion that there is no, to small, clearance between the accel lever pin (a vertical stop plug pin just aft of the long lever).

All this is under the black sheet metal governor cover.
 
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