Was the 07 injected? Sounds to me like a wiring issue. Maybe the power for 07 went through injectors to coils. Just a guess.
No Spark after Engine Swap ZZR600
Ok Lets see if you can help me on this one. I just put an 06 zzr600 engine in a 07 zzr600 frame. its carburated. I know im getting fuel to the carburter , but im not getting spark. plugs are good. I checked the IGN sensor it has battery voltage. I checked the coils and switches the only thing that was wierd was that I got power at the coils , but the plug going into the harness that connects to the spark plugs no power which doesn't make sense to me cause how can I have power at the coils right? and then when I pull the clutch and try to start it not even a sound comes from the bike even when its in neutral or any other gear... Try to start with the clutch out, you can hear it turn over. I took the crankcase sensor out of my old engine and put it in the 06 and still nothing cause I thought that might it. When I put the engine in the bike I replaced the cylinder head on it with the one on the orginal engine used the bolts that were with it cause I know they are like machined to that head pulled it at TDC and properly torqued it. the camshafts were all lined up to keep the timing. so I can't come to any good conclusion. I checked the kickstand sensor, neutral safety switch and the switch that connects into the clutch.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
No the 07 was Carburated too. Yes I was thinking the problem is electrical I just can't pinpoint wear. I keep getting told neutral safety switch or starter lockout but I check them with the multimeter and every thing looks good.
you check all the fuses? the not cranking when the clutch is pulled in is a bad clutch switch... I had to get mine replaced under warranty.
kawi doesn't use TTY head bolts? I thought everybody used those now.
kawi doesn't use TTY head bolts? I thought everybody used those now.
Hi,
~ Was the motor running ok in the 06 Frame ?
I'm with the Starter lockout system.
~ How exactly are you testing the 3 Diodes in the junction Box ?
Can you explain again about where you have and haven't got power at the Coils..
Bret, Torque To Yield head bolts (Or Stretch bolts here in the UK) are uncommon on Bikes as yet, Unlike cars etc where they've been around for years now..
Common with Big end bearing cap bolts tho....
~ Was the motor running ok in the 06 Frame ?
I'm with the Starter lockout system.
~ How exactly are you testing the 3 Diodes in the junction Box ?
Can you explain again about where you have and haven't got power at the Coils..
Bret, Torque To Yield head bolts (Or Stretch bolts here in the UK) are uncommon on Bikes as yet, Unlike cars etc where they've been around for years now..
Common with Big end bearing cap bolts tho....
Well I got the Motor of Ebay and he says it runs, thats why I pulled the cyclinder head was to check the pistons and everything , dropped the oil pan and pulled all the covers and everything looked clean. But who knows with that.
I checked the coils with a multimeter and they work. the harness with the 4 plugs that go into each coil I have power at those plugs. now the plug that goes into this harness. I get no power reading from.
the 3 dioces in the Junction box Im going to have to look into cause all I did is go through and check for voltage going to all the sensors. I'll find these diodes and make sure they are still running and get back to you.
I checked the coils with a multimeter and they work. the harness with the 4 plugs that go into each coil I have power at those plugs. now the plug that goes into this harness. I get no power reading from.
the 3 dioces in the Junction box Im going to have to look into cause all I did is go through and check for voltage going to all the sensors. I'll find these diodes and make sure they are still running and get back to you.
So you've checked the 4 Stick Coil Primary & Secondary resistance with your meter ?
You have 12v at each Stick Coil through the Connector that attaches to the Coils?
So what harness are you loosing the feed at.
Pic's would be helpfull if possible
E-Bay Motor Ummmmmm let's hope the seller was honest with his "It's a Runner"
Check the 3 Diodes with your meter set to Diode test or Resistance test setting.
The reading should be low in 1 direction and at least 10 times as much in the other direction..
antiq it is Electronic Ignition yup...
You have 12v at each Stick Coil through the Connector that attaches to the Coils?
So what harness are you loosing the feed at.
Pic's would be helpfull if possible
E-Bay Motor Ummmmmm let's hope the seller was honest with his "It's a Runner"
Check the 3 Diodes with your meter set to Diode test or Resistance test setting.
The reading should be low in 1 direction and at least 10 times as much in the other direction..
antiq it is Electronic Ignition yup...
Well I used a jumper wire and bypassed the clutch switch and got the Engine to start. It sounded like a chain saw, so I cut it off checked my engine mounts and header nuts and they were all fine. started it a few more times and now I get the solenoid click. and no attempt to crank. I'm charging the battery now and that's the status on were Im at now. any ideas why the engine sounds so bad?
Well I pulled the crankcase cover off and the generator cover crank won't turn over so I guess Im taking the head off again to figure it out.
I can't help much, but remember: The engine isn't electric. It's all about vaporised gas and controlled explosions. If you're using all the original carbs/ignition, your problem isn't with the new engine. You've done something wrong on the install. If you have power to the coils, I'd look at the wiring diagram (and the Troubleshooting guide in the manual) and suspect the kill switch, sidestand switch, Ignition switch, ECU, etc.
I got to start but now the RPM's randomly jump and When you reeve the engine it sticks at whatever RPM and stays there every now it then it will slowly climb down. I think it has something to do with the carb. anyideas?
Sounds like it might be inducting unwanted air from somewhere..
Usuall culprits are the carb rubbers not seated right or leaking..
Usuall culprits are the carb rubbers not seated right or leaking..
it sounds like you need to adjust your idle switch or (knob) located on the clutch side. or you need to adjust your clutch cable, if it gets in a bind it will hold the throttle open on a carbed bike causing it to idle to highI got to start but now the RPM's randomly jump and When you reeve the engine it sticks at whatever RPM and stays there every now it then it will slowly climb down. I think it has something to do with the carb. anyideas?
Please check the dates in the top left corner before offering advice. This thread is 5+ yrs old.....it sounds like you need to adjust your idle switch or (knob) located on the clutch side. or you need to adjust your clutch cable, if it gets in a bind it will hold the throttle open on a carbed bike causing it to idle to high
Thank you.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
A forum community dedicated to Kawasaki Motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, off-road, touring, street bikes, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
