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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy! I'm new on these forums and I could really use some help.

I have an 06 Ninja250. It has 11k miles, and It was running like a champ until about a month ago.

I knew it was my CCT but i thought i had more time, the engine grendaded, blew out my rocker arms and my cam chain. I knew i needed a new engine.

I bought one on ebay. not the best idea because he "never heard it run" and it has "unknown miles" but i got a good deal and I thought it would be "fine" because he said it "looked great" little did i know, he meant the cases and cylinder head cover looked great -_-

I threw it in myself with a few friends, ran into a few problems (upside down exhaust gaskets and bad spark plugs) but I got it running. I adjusted the carbs and heard a HORRIBLE tick at idle and at all rpms.

So i assumed it was the CCT because I had heard that DREADFUL noise multiple times this year. So i ordered a new one, threw it in and bravo! the noise went away... at idle. there was still some horrible tick when at 3k at higher.

I thought it might be valves, took it in for an adjustment and they were tight. they put it in spec, and the noise loosened slightly, but only barely.

My mechanic has heard of these noises but has never figured it out, hes using my bike as a "guinea pig" and is trying to find out what is going on. He thought it was worn/ warped cam lobes, since one side of each of them, even on my old bike, are worn more than another side, he thinks it might be normal for the 250 but doesnt know.

Basically, theres a dreadfully loud engine tick in my 250. at idle its fine, minimal noises, sounds good. any gas makes it sound like the engine might grenade again. its not the cct, or the valves. What is this sh**???

i'm thinking it may be a bearing, because when backing up in neutral, while the bike is off, it makes a revolving slight click. but i'm no mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
what do you mean by valves being burnt up?
do you mean rocker arm?
cam lobe?
rocker to valve spring
or valve itself?

The bike runs great. no loss in power, starts fine, idles great, just makes a dreadful tick (like gravel in my engine) when i give it gas
 

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itching to ride
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Hard to diagnose a tick by discription. You should have went into the engine before installing it since the condition was an unknown. At least pull the valve cover and head and take a good look. It would be ashamed to install another engine like you did and have it also blow. If you can locate the area of the noise it would be a help. You can use a short hose as sort of a stethoscope to better pinpoint where the tick is coming from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have had the mechanic tear into it for the last two days, he's looking for any significant problems, and the only thing he has found, is even dips on one side of my cam lobes on every cam lobe. he doesnt know if this is normal, and neither do I. There is a weird build up of rustic fluid in the bottom end, from when i replaced the CCT, i noticed its just like someone shat a bean burrito in there.

the noise is obviously top end though
 

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AZ's Official Mechanic
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5,201 Posts
maybe it was an old race motor and its got a cracked piston around the pin ? small exhaust leak ? broken valve spring ? bad rocker arm ? cam chain wore out ?
as for goop in bottom end have your tech split the cases and clean it out... sounds like it could be old oil/water from bad head gasket maybe ?
 

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I ride what I like
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what do you mean by valves being burnt up?
do you mean rocker arm?
cam lobe?
rocker to valve spring
or valve itself?

The bike runs great. no loss in power, starts fine, idles great, just makes a dreadful tick (like gravel in my engine) when i give it gas

Good valve.




Burnt valve. They can range from deforming to blowing a hole through them. When the valve doesnt close fully, the heat/flame touches the sealing part of the valve and valve seat. Over time the valve gets weak, which leads to deforming or blowing apart.



 

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'09 Vulcan 900 Custom
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I was actually thinking worn valve springs or burned valves as pictured above.
I don't think the lobes would cause this, but I am not a mechanic either so my opinion is probably only worth what it costs lol. A bad rocker arm could cause it too, but the only times I have seen rocker arms bad caused some really horrendous noises even at idle. Hadn't thought of a cracked piston or pin, but I am betting that could be it too now that I think of it. If the tech has the engine torn down, several of those should be pretty obvious though.....

Keep us informed of what you find. I am interested to see what it is now...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
when there is any load on the engine it gives a rattle like there is a tiny SOMETHING rolling around, but at idle... its fine
 

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Light tick or heavy knock?
Light tick could be wrist pin/busted piston- upper end noise
heavy knock could be rod kknocking , it is worse under load, the harder you load it at low rpm the louder it'll knock.

Could even be spark knock from too low octane fuel. Try a higher grade of fuel or add some octane booster, let it get mixed in good and repost the results. Good excuse to ride.
 

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AZ's Official Mechanic
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Light tick or heavy knock?
Light tick could be wrist pin/busted piston- upper end noise
heavy knock could be rod kknocking , it is worse under load, the harder you load it at low rpm the louder it'll knock.

Could even be spark knock from too low octane fuel. Try a higher grade of fuel or add some octane booster, let it get mixed in good and repost the results. Good excuse to ride.
no riding for him.. bike is apart and motor is tore down as we speak from what im reading....
 

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when there is any load on the engine it gives a rattle like there is a tiny SOMETHING rolling around, but at idle... its fine

That would be pinging from either a too far spark advance or not running proper fuel as Bob Myers said.

A fried valve will get you 0 psi compression, with out compression the engine won't run, or won't run well if it is more than one clyinder.

Since it runs well, you have compression, but a leak down test cold should have been done first, and then a dry comp test, then a wet test should have been done once the engine was warm.

If this is a water cooled bike, and the oil was nasty mung, there could be coolant in the oil... That won't work well long.

Techs can buy stethascopes like doctors to listen to where noises come from.

A long 3/8th drive socket extension can be used the same way.

With the information as posted unless it is ping, which is eatting up metals, no one can diagnoise the problem. They need better information.

Ping can and will burn holes in pistons, eat valve for breakfast. Damage is done before you can even hear ping. The term ping is based on a sound, something like what you discribe.

The cause is fuel detonating before the spark plug fires off the mix.

I don't know the comp ratio for this bike and or if the EPA has it set so lean, it needs hi test fuel. If the ratio is over 10.5:1 you need to run hi test fuels.

If the ratio is 9:1 you don't by comprssion standards, but if the mix is overly lean hi test will help.

With 9:1 and a proper mix regular is the best bang for the buck.
 
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