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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings all! Tasked with resurrecting a 2000 Vulcan 800A which sat for 6 years. Total miles: 6228. Always garage kept, and rode gently. Looking for any advice/considerations with regard to getting it road worthy again.

- I am thinking tires should be replaced(?) They are original; holding air and with decent tread. But do they get dry/brittle? Figuring on replacing for safety's sake.

- Throttle will not turn, not even a little bit. I'm afraid to crank on it too hard for fear of damaging something else. Guessing the cable is seized somehow/somewhere? Likely needs replaced?

- Almost certainly will need to replace the battery, or at least give it a good charge (I have a motorcycle trickle charger).

- Fuel turned to varnish, and may have done some pretty good damage. Could hardly get the fuel tank filler cap open, had to pry it. Can see rust and/or oxidized material on inside walls of tank. The fuel line from the tap assembly (selector valve) to the carb has disintegrated inside, and is clogged. Wondering if other carb/fuel-system parts might have been damaged as well(?). Everything associated with the fuel system smells strongly of spray paint. Plan with this:

1. Clean tank. Been reading up and watching vids, looks like flushing with vinegar or other acid might do the trick. There is much guidance on this idea out on the wire.

2. Replace the fuel line with new. Does this have to be an OEM part? Or can this be a chunk of regular automotive fuel line?

3. ?? Should I plan on a full overhaul of the carb?

- Anything else y'all can think of that should be evaluated in order for this beautiful old girl to be SAFELY ready for the road again? It really is in fantastic shape for being almost 20 years old!

Thanks so much for any insights.
 

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Sounds like a great project bike and it sounds like you have a good handle on what needs to be done. What ever fuel line you use you may want to put a fuel filter to catch anything junk you may miss. If the tank turned to varnish, then it's a good be that the float bowl has done the same so overhauling the carbs would be a good bet. Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress.
 

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Install a fuel filter in the fuel line to keep the carbs from plugging up with rust particles.
Turn the engine on the starter enough to get oil to all parts of the engine before starting it.
Yes, definitely replace the tires and spark plugs.
I would check the compression to verify the engine is up to snuff mechanically.
Usually, you only need new needles and seats for the carbs. Remove, disassemble enough to at least spray the orifices with carb cleaner. Rubber parts may be damaged by the carb cleaner. I use a weld tip cleaner to poke the orifices to make sure they are not clogged.
Sounds like a great find. You should get to enjoy many pleasure packed miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the replies. The fuel filter idea is an excellent one, and I had not thought about that. Will absolutely provide updates as I work my way through this. Would upload a pic but the forum won't allow attachments, at least at my level of access. Just a quick wash down to get off the grime and I can tell she's still in excellent shape. After the fuel line became compromised, the fuel/varnish leaked down onto the crank and other chromed parts, staining it badly. Tested a few small areas with chrome polish and a bunch of elbow grease and it does come off. It will be a task but I suspect she's going to sparkle and shine when complete.

Have done carb work on this same engine before, not a problem. The rest of it: the cleaning/repair of the tank interior, stuck cables, and the like will be new to me, but very much within my capabilities. The tires and associated removal and re-install of wheels I might want to leave to a pro; not even sure how I would go about jacking/lifting to get both off the ground at the same time. Might have to do a rental trailer and get it into a real shop for that.

Thanks again for the replies. This is a great group of forums.
 

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I am pretty sure most items have been touched on. I routinely look for such motorcycles to fix up and sell. I would replace the throttle, choke, and clutch cables, clean the carburetors, change the oil and filter, soak the chain if it is in good shape, change the brake fluid and check the operation of the brakes. The fuel tank will probably need to be cleaned, add a fuel filter, put in new spark plugs. and check any and all vent lines. For the fuel tank, I have started using POR-15. The fuel lines I generally replace with OEM since some may be formed. Sound like a great project though
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you, Blade2010, for the feedback. Flushing/changing-out the brake fluid a great suggestion; the front disc brake has been disconnected for several years and is doubtless frozen up too. I agree with you, this will be an excellent project. I just wish I had half of you all's experience. I guess that's how you get experience, by diving into a project, yes?

Have a bunch of parts to order. I see there are many options for parts suppliers on the wire. Any one better than another?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE, carb trashed...

Hello again. In ref to this badly varnished fuel situation; managed to get the carb removed. Hardened-on, greenish crud in the carb throat itself, and inside the small holes/passage-ways. Opened up the float bowl assbly... what a horror-show. Green, foul old fuel, a lot of debris, almost looks like disintegrated/ground-up part in the bowl bottom. Not sure what to make of that.

How would you proceed? Give it a thorough cleaning obviously. Use off-the-shelf solvent or carb cleaner? Or more aggressive dip and compressed air?

Also, I should probably acquire and install a complete kit with new jets, gaskets, etc?

Geez I hope I'm not in over my head. Any insight on this greatly appreciated!
 

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Of course complete disassembly and soaking in chem dip is the best way to clean the carbs. But on my old bike, I just partially disassembled them by removing the bowls, floats, and diaphragms, removed the jets and emulsion tubes and sprayed carb cleaner into all of the orifices and used the weld tip cleaner to clear all the jets and emulsion tubes. The only things I replaced were the fuel needles and seats. This was on my ZN700.
 

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How would you proceed? Give it a thorough cleaning obviously. Use off-the-shelf solvent or carb cleaner? Or more aggressive dip and compressed air?
 

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And when you are ready to put fuel back in the tank, add a bottle of Gumout for High Mileage Engines with PEA. This stuff will help clean the carbs and keep them clean and it doesn't harm the carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That makes all kinds of sense, RoadRunner332. Thanks again for the great advice.

Would you get and install a carb overhaul kit while you're in there? The one I'm looking at on Ebay has "all necessary gaskets, O-Rings float valve and jets" for $33 bux. Does that make sense? To start fresh with new internal carb pieces? Don't want to just throw money away, but also wish to do this right...
 
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