Put the airbox back in and see what happens.
The problem was there when I got the bike. I took it off to cure the problem. I would expect it to run lean but not "miss" without the airbox.Put the airbox back in and see what happens.
I can tell you I had the exact same problem on my 1979 KZ750 when I put on new headers. Increasing the pilot jet had a small improvement, but going two slots richer on my needles cured it and now it goes like a rocket.I've had this 1981 KZ1000 CSR for two weeks now and I can't get rid of the stumble just off idle to about2,000 RPMs.
BS34 carbs with original 130 jets, airbox (removed for testing) and stock pipes.
All I've read indicates the pilot circuit is at fault. Carb cleaner and compressed air used.
Float level is ¼" down from top. Pilot jets have been removed and cleaned. I have removed the needle jets and cleaned but no obstructions. Needles are non adjustable (one groove) Two air screws are frozen but appear open because a good stream of carb cleaner comes out when sprayed in their holes. The other two are at 1½ turns out. Bike idles and top end (above 3,000 RPMs) is OK. Anything I may have missed?
No, but considering the time I wasted screwing around dialing in a set of MAC headers, we can probably assume the man with new pods has a hobby that will devour all of his free time.Are we to assume anyone getting a KZ1000 to run properly with pods (+1 jetsize) and no other modifications, is doing the impossible?
Even the car makers are getting hip and scooping up all the "low hanging fruit" when it comes to squeezing ponies out of an engine. My Cavalier has a 132 CID four banger that puts out 150HP stock trim (no turbo) and employs a tuned resonator on the intake side to maximize flow. Bikes really are tweaked to the max to get that kind of power out of the small displacements they run.GSXR, haven't seen you around here. Where have you been? It is an accepted fact that "Modern Motorcycles" are tuned to within an inch of their lives. The days of picking up 10-25% with a pipe and a set of K&Ns are over. You need flatslides ($1200) a genius like me and a dyno. Kawasaki engineers are gearheads and leave NO easy HP as a matter of pride.
No, but tell me the distance between slots and I'll try shims.You may want to buy a second set of needles and experiment with cutting new slots.
about .030" to .040"No, but tell me the distance between slots and I'll try shims.
It may not be "impossible" but thats where my vote would go. I tried, off and on, for about 10 years of the almost 27 I have owned this one and finally gave up. I'm now running factory exhaust/airbox again and happy about it. I was able to get different variations, low/mid/high range, to run great but never all 3 at the same time. There was always something not quite "right" with the way it ran (mostly low end). As for the shims under the needle clips, mine came factory with 2 under each and they are back in there as well. The biggest and most noticeable problem that I lived with during that time was the lack of throttle response/smoothness when under 2k rpm that you mentioned. Not a lot of fun on gravel.Are we to assume anyone getting a KZ1000 to run properly with pods (+1 jetsize) and no other modifications, is doing the impossible?
OK, you said stock jets and box. So we're talking exhaust, gearing, chain, sprockets, turbo. I know you wouldn't NOS it!Honey, my bike ain't stock. Hasn't been since 1982. Ran a 10 in 1983.