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Discussion Starter #1
I was unscrewing the drain plug to drain the oil from my VN800 and I'm wondering why the bolt was turning, but not getting any looser.... Oops, I was tightening instead of loosening :mad: . I reckon I might have tightened it 1/2 - 3/4 of a full turn tighter than the spec torque I had it at from the last oil change.

When I took the bolt out I noticed tiny metal shavings in the threads of the bolt (but the actual threads on the bolt themselves looked ok?) so these shavings must have been from the sump, right? Is the sump aluminium?

Anyway, when I put the drain bolt back in it went in OK and I torqued it up to the correct spec and it looks OK. I just want to know if I should be concered about it or not. Re-threading the sump does not sound like a cheap or easy job.

Thanks
 

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i cant see where just 1/2 to 3/4 turn would tear the threads. ya say it tightend up ok? just keep an eye on it, watch for leaks, those shaveings might be from something eles.
 

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i cant see where just 1/2 to 3/4 turn would tear the threads. ya say it tightend up ok? just keep an eye on it, watch for leaks, those shaveings might be from something eles.
+1

You would have to put some muscle behind that wrench to really tear the threads. I have seen bolts with "stretched" threads from over tightening, all you need is a good thread gauge to check that, but I'm with sl3 - if the bolt seats OK and tightens up to the correct torque and doesn't leak, I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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yep, and I believe it has rubber gasket. as long as the drain bolt stays there, the thread is doing its job. If I were in your shoe, I know it will hurt like hxxx. But it is not perfect world, so we live with the scars...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yep, and I believe it has rubber gasket. as long as the drain bolt stays there, the thread is doing its job. If I were in your shoe, I know it will hurt like hxxx. But it is not perfect world, so we live with the scars...
No rubber gasket, just a metal washer on the drain bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
+1

You would have to put some muscle behind that wrench to really tear the threads. I have seen bolts with "stretched" threads from over tightening, all you need is a good thread gauge to check that, but I'm with sl3 - if the bolt seats OK and tightens up to the correct torque and doesn't leak, I wouldn't worry about it.
Thanks for the reply.
 

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Yeah, except when the bolt is upside down like the drain bolt.... I shouldv'e gotten on my back under the bike and I would've been OK. At least it will never happen again!
Don't try and think about which way the bolt is turning relative to you as that'll change based on your body's orientation. Imagine the bolt turning right or left relative your hand. If that doesn't work, hold your hand out, turn "lefty" in mid air and continue turning "lefty" as you place your hand on the bolt.
 

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If it does become a problem you can purchase self-threading oversize drain plugs at the auto parts store in a variety of sizes. I have used one of these on the wife's cage and it did work well. After more then five years no problems with it.

HTH,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If it does become a problem you can purchase self-threading oversize drain plugs at the auto parts store in a variety of sizes. I have used one of these on the wife's cage and it did work well. After more then five years no problems with it.

HTH,
Mark
Thanks, that sounds good.
 

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I would be more concerned with the threads in the oil pan. Next time you change oil have a new plug and washer on hand and try threading the new plug into the oil pan very carefully and see how it threads in. If it threads in with no problems then everything should be good.
 

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The pan/case is aluminum and if brought to full torque spec, it WILL strip sooner or later.
The torque specs are for clean and DRY threads, which is impossible to get on the oil drain bolt.

I strongly suggest having a steel thread insert installed in the case.
You can go oversize, but if you do, I would recommend using the screen plug to drain the oil (that's what I use all the time)... it's the lowest point in the pan on the 1500/1600/900 engines when on the sidestand and will empty about 3-4oz more than the pan bolt.
 

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Another little tip is to use (blue) lock-tite on the threads so you can ease off the higher torque a tad w/o the bolt backing out on it's own.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The pan/case is aluminum and if brought to full torque spec, it WILL strip sooner or later. I strongly suggest having a steel thread insert installed in the case. ..
Thanks Rich, it was at full torque spec before I started accidently tightening it! So I reckon it went more than 1/2 turn past full torque... I had a feeling the case was aluminium - and the fine metal shavings I saw on the drain bolt must have been from the threads in the case. It still threaded up OK, and I haven't got any leaks so far. Would you suggest getting a steel thread insert? Or should I just wait until the threads in the case are really stuffed?

You can go oversize, but if you do, I would recommend using the screen plug to drain the oil (that's what I use all the time)... it's the lowest point in the pan on the 1500/1600/900 engines when on the sidestand and will empty about 3-4oz more than the pan bolt.
I don't really like the sound of going oversize. Screwing an oversize bolt would mean that it is essentially "self tapping" its own thread instead of using the cases threads and I wouldn't want to use it for oil changes after that...

Where is the screen plug on the 800? It sounds like a much easier option.
 

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at the next oil change, i will try the oil screen bolt first, then the drain plug... to see if that is the case with 800 too.
the oil screen plug is on the left side of the engine, lowest point.
 
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