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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just started up bike from a long time in the garage. Start and runs fine but after first run of 3m I noticed oil over LHS exhausts at and below head gasket level.

Nothing has changed since last run when it was fine ? It must I think be coming from oil cooler left side nut.

I have done this tight (cant torque it as dont know it and only spanner fits anyway).
I put on some thread seal , did up tight but still , bit not so bad oil is sprayed over LHS and burns off when hot.
All i can say is the thread on the oil cooler lhs is not great. But never been touched !!!!
Dare i tighten it more than i think i should ......

43074
 

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This kind of fitting does not rely on the threads for sealing. Carefully inspect the tapered surfaces that make the seal for damage or dirt. Also have a close look at the taper inside the nut. If everything looks good, chances are you need to go tighter. Apply a little grease to the taper inside the nut before you assemble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Many thanks . Will check later and do
that later and report.

Beginning to think iv made a mistake
selling my kwak. My first big project too.
If I win lottery.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cleaned up nut (thread is fine ) and tube connector lug .... that fits onto oil cooler . All good.

The thread on the oil cooler is trashed and I am wondering if this has been gradually indeed always going. The bit the tube lug fits onto the oil cooler looks ok.
When I say trashed (not by me) it is the lower bit of the thread only. I must have forgotten this on the rebuild and hoped it was ok.

However now I recall I have always seen a bit of oil on front near exhaust ports. Perhaps a cold winter and being stood for 9 months hasnt helped.

Anyway back together , thread sealant on (last time I didnt realise that needed to set over night so again a poss reason ), and the smallest smear of three bond on flange.

Will test tomorrow .
 

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There's a 750-4 chain drive FSM pdf available at various sites. KZR may have it.
The oil tube connecting nuts torque is listed as 16-ft/lbs. The manual says to apply a little oil to the threads then turn the connecting nuts by hand to avoid damaging the threads (from the FSM: damaged threads may cause oil leaks). Then tighten to spec. I probably would buff the mating surfaces w bronze wool or steel wool before making the connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok cheers.
Gonna test run it tomorrow with as tight as I dare by two hands and one foot keeping oil pipe in place.

I have a torque wrench of course but even now i have never got a open spanner head torque wrench to do nuts like this.
Has anyone got one to show ..... ?

- damaged threads may cause leaks!!!
I think it always looked a little and due to being left for so long gave up when I went for a run again ? freezing temps in garage ?
 

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If you want to use a torque wrench, you can use this formula along with a crow's foot flare nut wrench.
Or you can rotate the flare nut wrench by 90 degrees and ignore the formula and use the FSM torque. The error in torque will be very small.

43077
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re - torque maths - I'll start another thread to discuss ..... but desire madly to have these details for my bikes.

Re Oil leak thought to be on oil cooler pipe nut joint.
FIXED . As on here , cleaned male and female faces, small amount of threebond on face (I simply had to be sure and swear by the stuff
on side casing gaskets) , and did up tightly (torque unknown). Also some thread sealant allowed overnight to set.
I am sure all this was due to being too careful on the tightness and leakage got progressively worse.

So at the last moment I know this engine is good , very good. Hell these bikes move !

I must now hope no one buys the bike off ebay .... I have the feeling after riding it I'm making a mistake....
 
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