+1 with RotellaDepends on the car oil. There are a tons of threads on here about it if you want all the oil info you could ever handle. Short answer is if it has friction modifers in it you're clutch isn't going to work. The only oil I personally will buy from wally world for the bike is Shell Rotella 15W 40. It has just received the proper certs for our bikes.
I would get the rotella 15w40 only.is "Rotella" good enough for buying it (beyond the viscosity) or is there lines within the brand to pay attention to?
For what it's worth, For 38 years I've used the latest and greatest oil technology in my prized possesions. Now I own a 2008 vulcan 2000 LT and a 2005 KLR, I was using Spectro golden 4, 10W-40 in both, they both ran well and shifted smoothly at $12.00 a quart. I decided to do a test and started using good old Kawi. $4.00 per quart dino oil in the KLR to see what would happen. I started with the dino cheap stuff at 20,000 miles, now I'm at 42,000 miles and I gotta tell ya the old KLR runs quieter, uses no oil and shifts smoother than it ever did. I still use the Spectro in the vulcan but I'm thinking about the benefit of a $25.00 oil change. I'm starting to think this whole oil thing is one heck of a a marketing ploy. When I do valve checks on the KLR the grind marks are still on the cams and all the balancer chains and cam chains measure like new. I guess I wasted a lot of hard earned cash on good marketing.Ready to do my 600 mile change on my vulcan.
Can I use car oil from wally world or auto parts place?
Would it void the warranty? What's cheap and recommended?
I have not ever noticed that.I think that while it seems to be doing a very good job of preventing wear in your case, it's been proven time and time again that conventional oils can leave nasty stuff behind depending on what's going on in your engine. I'd never run a conventional oil in my hot-running, hard working motorcycle engine because I've seen what heat can do to conventional oil. Sludge and varnish are non-existant in engines that are run from the beginning with good quality synthetics.
I can't testify to whether or not oil A causes rougher / smoother shifting than oil B. The only bad side effect from using synthetics that I've encountered in the last 4 years is when Mobil 1 MX4T caused the clutch in my 94 Ninja 250 start acting more like an on-off switch than a clutch. I switched it over to Castrol synthetic and it went back to normal.
Agreed, there is a TON of marketing involved in the oil industry, but for the most part, the oil companies are held to a certain standard of 'truth in advertising'. But my experiences over the years with all my different cars, and more recently with my bikes has given me my own frame of reference when I consider the differences between oils. It's synthetics all the way for me....even in my lawnmower.
Ditto, Rotella T Dino, tranny smooth as butter.I started using Rotela T 15w40 and will never go back to motorcycle oil, my tranny feels so much smoother and all my engine ticks are gone.
Thats what I find as well.Ditto, Rotella T Dino, tranny smooth as butter.