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Discussion Starter #1
So my 7 yr. old mule starts to run rough, like it's starving for fuel. First place to go is the fuel filter, changed same, no change in problem. Then go to the air filter, Hmmmm, why is there engine oil in the canister housing. Cleaned up the mess and inspected the filter. NO problem with filter. Also no change in original problem. Next I suspect the carb bowl has crud in it and proceed to remove the carb. What a mess. There is a cover over the intake that has the crank breather attached to it. It's FULL of oil!!

Ques. Is the purpose of that cover to collect crank fumes and burn them off?

Ques2. Is it normal to have an accumulation of oil in there?

If it's not normal to have oil in there, then what's going on here. The crank is not overfull so I don't think that's the problem.


Any help here would be appreciated.


Thanks,
 

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The crank breather issue is a common problem. The best solution is to cut and reroute the breather line and install an oil trap on the engine side so it drains back into the engine before it ever gets to the air intake.

Also, check your valve clearance when this problem starts occurring. The Mules tend to run to excessive valve lifter clearance after about 100 hours of use, and that keeps the valves from fully opening. The compression that cannot make it out the open valves ends up blowing past the rings and into the crankcase creating oil fog that whiffs out the breather.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks RCW. After I made that post I started looking around the site. Sure enough, others have similar problems. I was just taken aback by the amount of oil that was in that air flow channel. I can see some oily residue but this was extreme (to me).

I certainly hope cleaning this all up helps. Next I guess it's valve lash time.

Thanks again.


Fred
 

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Discussion Starter #4
While I'm here and while the carb is on the bench. The carb appears really clean (internally). But since it is on the bench, should I pull all the jets and stuff out and spary it down with carb cleaner. Never tore into a carb so what is there to watch out for here?


Thanks again,


Fred
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorta disapointed in the local Kaw. dealer. Called to get gaskets for that carb and 1. There is no "gasket kit" 2. He has to order the gaskets. I would think something like carb gaskets would be on hand. But then, there may be tons of different carbs so they can't really stock all of them. And I asked about gettig a new needle valve, only comes with the float assembly and that's over $30. There is nothing really wrong with the old one, just I figured it's opened up, replace it. Oh well,


Still looking for some insight on how best to clean this carb. I've torn chain saw carbs apart (there's really nothing to them) but this thing is a different animal. Any help here would be appreciated.

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #6
RCW,

The trap you talk about, I can understand mounting the trap between the carb and the engine but I don't see how it drains back into the crank. Got any suggestions as to brand names and/or part nums. on that trap. I will assume that this trap is like the PCV valve on older cars?? These valves are specific to engine size etc. and if the wrong one is installed too much or too little is siphoned off the crank. I guess just plugging the two ends would do more harm then good.

Thanks,

Fred
 

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You will need to manually empty the trap. and you need to do it before it gets full. If the engine is in good shape (full compression and has good rings and valves) the trap should not fill very rapid in the warm spring & summer months.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Figured as much. It would be like a monthly P.M. thing.

There is a plastic tube, IPL calls it a boot, :confused: (something must have been lost in the Jap to English translation)about 4" long coming out of the intake manifold (which the ipl calls a cover). I think for now I'll put a drain on this and just keep tabs on it. Open it once a month and see what's in there. I guess the best policy would be to keep tabs on that valve lash and all should be well.


Thanks,

Fred
 

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Discussion Starter #9
RCW,

Read the "dipping carb" thread. I guess that answers my carb cleaning ques.

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sky is clearing (5 days of rain and we don't even live in the PNW). Got my VERY EXPENSIVE bag of gaskets for the carb. Gonna knock it together today. Did I say those gaskets were VERY EXPENSIVE!!

Later,
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So after going thru the contortions to get that timing cover off and check the valve lash, only 1 was off, and only by a little. So one valve out of 4 caused all that oil build up??? Or is it 7 yrs. of not knowing about it and not cleaning that box out once in a while??? In any case I learned a few things, the biggest is that my hands are too big to work on this thing.


Take care,
 

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Have you checked you engine oil level? Very easy to over fill a Mule at oil change time. Have seen this many times. If your oil is over fill might check to see if it has gas in it. Have seen bad float valve is carbs leak fuel into the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Oil is not overfull. But this thing is parked on a slight incline, port side higher that starboard. I wonder if that has anything to do with it. It's past time for an oil change, just got filters yesterday. I'll check oil for fuel when I change. If the float was sticking it should be o.k. now since I removed and cleaned the carb. Thanks for the tip.


Later,
 
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