[edconnro]

I have owned a 'D' reg GPZ600r for ~ 2 years. Recently noticed petrol blooms on the ground after bike had been standing, say overnight. Without the benefit of a h/book I managed to remove the tank, unfortunately I didn't get a note of where the two hoses were connected from the petrol tap to the carbs. There is a connection toward the front of the engine/carbs and another towards the rear. The original pipe configuration had an in-line fuel filter on one hose only, should this be the 'ON' or 'PRI'. If someone can advise where the 'PRI' and the 'ON'/'RES' outlet from the petrol tap go, and in which line the filter should be I'd appreciate it.

By the way, I think the leak was down to a perished end on one of the hoses, now sorted. Strangely (I think) there is no clips to secure the connection ends on any of the petrol pipes.

 

[vinnye]

The pipe pointing towardss the rear of the bike will be the petrol feed line to the carbs.
The other pipe will be the vac line from the motro. The petrol tap has a diaphragm that is operated by a vac created when the motor is turned over. This will then allow petrol to flow when in the ON or RESERVE positions.
The PRI position on the tap is for priming the carbs after they have been drained.
Try to avoid using the prime position - unless you must. If you have a stuck needle valve and leave your tap on prime - you may be heading towards a hydraulic lock and bent rod!
HTH

 

[BrianTSmith99]

My bike came with little "clippy" wire clamps. Just a loop of wire that springs around to clamp. Not the kind with the screw to tighten to clamp. Even if it came new without any, I'd be paranoid of having nothing and would add them.

Brian

 

[edconnro]

The pipe pointing towardss the rear of the bike will be the petrol feed line to the carbs.
The other pipe will be the vac line from the motro. The petrol tap has a diaphragm that is operated by a vac created when the motor is turned over. This will then allow petrol to flow when in the ON or RESERVE positions.
The PRI position on the tap is for priming the carbs after they have been drained.
Try to avoid using the prime position - unless you must. If you have a stuck needle valve and leave your tap on prime - you may be heading towards a hydraulic lock and bent rod!
HTH

thanks vinnye. Your tip about the petrol delivered under suction let me identify what petrol tap outlet goes to what position on the engine. I turned the engine over and only one engine hose had suction. Only one position on the tap lets petrol flow (assume the PRI position) so I've conected this to the 'non suction' inlet on the engine. Everything was working before the leak and the engine is certainly running ok now - no sign of the original leak. The fuel guage isn't working now, maybe I've mssed up the sender. Hopefully it'll sort iteslf out if I fill the tank. Cheers.

 

[edconnro]

My bike came with little "clippy" wire clamps. Just a loop of wire that springs around to clamp. Not the kind with the screw to tighten to clamp. Even if it came new without any, I'd be paranoid of having nothing and would add them.

Brian

Cheers Brian - I think I'll get the garage to add them at the next service...

 

[BrianTSmith99]

Right, on the tap there is one "input" - the vacuum line from the engine, and one output - the fuel line obviously.

In PRIme, the fuel tap is always open allowing fuel passage.
In "ON" and "Reserve", the tap will only allow fuel to flow if engine vacuum is applied. The only difference in "ON" and "Reserve" is the height of the tube inside the tank. "ON" is taller so it runs "out of gas" before the tank is empty.

So if it runs more than a minute, you got those two correct There must be another wire for the gauge. Mine has none, so I am clueless about that.

Brian

 

[BrianTSmith99]

K. Go have fun and ride the thing! Just don't run out of gas

Brian

 

[StarGate]

There is another wire and connector for the fuel gauge. If it's like mine you can't move the tank very far before it runs out of slack and disconnects it's self. For mine, I have to mount the tank on the front brackets then lift the back end of the tank enough to get my hand under the rear of the tank. It's tricky to do but you have to connect the 2 ends of the connector from this position or the gauge won't work.