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Pilot screw adjustment

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Hello,
I have a ZR750 zephyr C1 1991,
Since I fitted a 4 into 1 exhaust it pops back on the overun, I have checked for leaks etc and all is OK.
I was thinking about weakening the mixture a little by turning the pilot jet air screws a quarter of a turn. To do this I think I turn the screw out to weaken mixture is this correct?
Thanks Andrew
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If it's popping through the exhaust, wouldn't that mean a hydrocarbon backfire? The bike may be too lean, now that it's running less restricted, and needs more fuel. This would be a Main jet, and pilot screw adjustment. You have to do a Spark Plug reading and see how they look to determine if the bikeis too lean or too fat on it's mixture. I don't see the pilot jets affecting this much really, except at idle. Maybe someone else can chime in.?
If it's popping through the exhaust, wouldn't that mean a hydrocarbon backfire? The bike may be too lean, now that it's running less restricted, and needs more fuel. This would be a Main jet, and pilot screw adjustment. You have to do a Spark Plug reading and see how they look to determine if the bikeis too lean or too fat on it's mixture. I don't see the pilot jets affecting this much really, except at idle. Maybe someone else can chime in.?
Hi, thanks for getting back to me, it only pops when the throttle is closed and I'm going down a steep hill for example, I was thinking that it's unburnt fuel so needs mixture leaning as it's only sourcing fuel through the pilot circuit? The bike runs perfect otherwise, I've had exhaust on for 2 yrs.
Has it been doing this for 2 years? Usually when a bike is running too lean, unburn fuel, unable to combusts, does so in the exhaust chamber. It's called a "Hydrocarbon Backfire" and does not happen under acceleration, it happens on deceleration. Vehicles these days tend to be run lean, so you hear little pops, but on motorcycles with headers just put on, by letting more air flow, you are actually making the motorcycle run in a lean condition as there is too much air not enough gas, resulting in poor combustion and the combustion happening in the exhaust when you let the throttle down, as the heat and unburnt fuel now combusts in the exhaust pipe. You need to do a plug reading first, to eetermine if the mixture off the Mains are running lean, right on the money, or too fat. If it is running with a nice Tan color, then you could try playing with the pilot jet screw, this is easy enough to do, and if it eliminates your problem, you are all set. Did the manufacturer state "No Jetting Necessary" with the exhaust system. Most bikes have to be jetted when you go to a header. Even when the after market pipe states "no jetting necessary". Try the pilot jet adjustment. Take a spark plug out and see what it looks like. It's not hard to do and will let you know much. Too lean of a condition will burn your exhaust valves out, too fat, the spark plugs will blacken. You don't want to run lean, it will do more damage than good. Since the pilot adjust procedure is something you know how to do, why not? If it clears it up, still take a spark plug reading so you know that you're getting all the ponies you bike shold be giving you. ;)
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Has it been doing this for 2 years? Usually when a bike is running too lean, unburn fuel, unable to combusts, does so in the exhaust chamber. It's called a "Hydrocarbon Backfire" and does not happen under acceleration, it happens on deceleration. Vehicles these days tend to be run lean, so you hear little pops, but on motorcycles with headers just put on, by letting more air flow, you are actually making the motorcycle run in a lean condition as there is too much air not enough gas, resulting in poor combustion and the combustion happening in the exhaust when you let the throttle down, as the heat and unburnt fuel now combusts in the exhaust pipe. You need to do a plug reading first, to eetermine if the mixture off the Mains are running lean, right on the money, or too fat. If it is running with a nice Tan color, then you could try playing with the pilot jet screw, this is easy enough to do, and if it eliminates your problem, you are all set. Did the manufacturer state "No Jetting Necessary" with the exhaust system. Most bikes have to be jetted when you go to a header. Even when the after market pipe states "no jetting necessary". Try the pilot jet adjustment. Take a spark plug out and see what it looks like. It's not hard to do and will let you know much. Too lean of a condition will burn your exhaust valves out, too fat, the spark plugs will blacken. You don't want to run lean, it will do more damage than good. Since the pilot adjust procedure is something you know how to do, why not? If it clears it up, still take a spark plug reading so you know that you're getting all the ponies you bike shold be giving you. ;)
Thanks again for taking the time to reply,
I will do a plug check to see what colour the plugs are. The manufacturer stated no jetting required and I can confirm the bike runs perfectly, no flat spots or misfiring at any time other than when throttle is fully closed. Yes it has done this since I fitted the exhaust. For me to richen the mixture on the pilot circuit do I turn the screw in? I was thinking quarter of a turn as a starting point.
Andrew
From what I have read, screwing them out leans the bike out, screwing them in fattens them up. That's what I've gleaned off the web. It would be well worth getting a Factory Service Manual. It will return the investment in in $1000's of dollars of savings of aggravation. :)
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.....they are idle fuel mix screws connected directly to the pilot jets, on the engine side. These are Kehins CVK32s. ....... Screwing them out enrichens, screwing them in leans. ....... But it is mostly for idle (tick over) and base mix. It will make little difference at higher throttle inputs. To make a difference there you would have to play with bowls fuel level, or pilot jets, needles, or main jets, or combination.

Factory is something about 2 1/4 turns out, rather conservative. If you go about 4 turns, might as well think about going one size up on pilot jets(35 to 38). One easy try would be adding shims under the needles.

Note: I have a manual chain tensioner instead of the bulky crosswedge automatic one, and can change anything in the carbs from top or bottom in a few minutes w/out removing carbs from engine which is a real pain. ......and you would be better off with stock 4 into 2 exhaust...... Only gain with 4 into one is lighter weight.

.....by the way, do you have the Kawaski Kleen system in the UK(air injection on exhaust valves)???
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I agree with using the 4 into two exhausts. I found raising the needle one notch on my bike reallly made the mid range power increase, and took away the need to feel I needed to rev the engine for power. I could let the engine work, and feel it pull without revving, but pulling with more torque. :)
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As a rule , Airbox side , left / out , to lean .. engine side left / out to richen ....
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Yup, on every engine I've ever worked on. :)
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From what I have read, screwing them out leans the bike out, screwing them in fattens them up. That's what I've gleaned off the web. It would be well worth getting a Factory Service Manual. It will return the investment in in $1000's of dollars of savings of aggravation. :)
Thank you. Thats what I thought
.....they are idle fuel mix screws connected directly to the pilot jets, on the engine side. These are Kehins CVK32s. ....... Screwing them out enrichens, screwing them in leans. ....... But it is mostly for idle (tick over) and base mix. It will make little difference at higher throttle inputs. To make a difference there you would have to play with bowls fuel level, or pilot jets, needles, or main jets, or combination.

Factory is something about 2 1/4 turns out, rather conservative. If you go about 4 turns, might as well think about going one size up on pilot jets(35 to 38). One easy try would be adding shims under the needles.

Note: I have a manual chain tensioner instead of the bulky crosswedge automatic one, and can change anything in the carbs from top or bottom in a few minutes w/out removing carbs from engine which is a real pain. ......and you would be better off with stock 4 into 2 exhaust...... Only gain with 4 into one is lighter weight.

.....by the way, do you have the Kawaski Kleen system in the UK(air injection on exhaust valves)???
Bike runs perfect other than scenario I mentioned so I will leave alone, thanks.
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If you look at all the GT3 racing, and similar cars), all the cars let off that popping sound when off the throttle. It's just part of the "Mean is Lean" phenomena. Manufacturers put of these 25 lb. mufflers to get rid of that sound. The new exhaust cans I made for my ZR1200 knocked 42 lbs. of the weight of the bike. Running too lean is a problem, using only the amount of fuel you need is the goal. The popping sound will become familiar, and itself will tell you if another problem arises if the sound changes. :)
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If you look at all the GT3 racing, and similar cars), all the cars let off that popping sound when off the throttle. It's just part of the "Mean is Lean" phenomena. Manufacturers put of these 25 lb. mufflers to get rid of that sound. The new exhaust cans I made for my ZR1200 knocked 42 lbs. of the weight of the bike. Running too lean is a problem, using only the amount of fuel you need is the goal. The popping sound will become familiar, and itself will tell you if another problem arises if the sound changes. :)
Thanks for taking the time to reply, I have checked the plugs and they look correct, so I am not worried about it.
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Edit: general rule, may be exceptions out there

If the pilot screw is on the engine side of the throttle plate, opening it adds fuel, If it's on the air filter side of the throttle plate, opening it adds air.
On this particular bike, with Keihin CV32 carbs fitted, the idle screw is on the engine side and by adjusting this screw you are creating a change in the idle turnover rate of the engine. In this instance the OP asks about changing the incorrect item, as his post concerns an engine already in motion, reducing rotations by deccelerating, closing the throttle and getting an undesired effect. The actual item that requires adjustment is the needle. By changing the height of the needle you increase the fuel flow at speed by raising it and decrease the fuel flow by lowering it. However the problem herein is that the needle in question is 16009-1647 Needle N52s. AND is not a modern item with changeable shims but fixed determined length. If I was the mechanic tasked with sorting this problem my first task would be to do a spark plug test. Warm the bike to everyday running temperature. Listen for the problem myself. Cool the bike for man hand temp then remove spark plugs. Inspect and judge. Note the colour of EACH INDIVIDUAL spark plug. take account of residue build up and cathode state. Check the spark plug gap is correct. (adjusting the gap before inspecting the other factors would mean residue dislodge.) Deduce if the fuel/air mixture is too rich/lean. After this inspection, consult the bike owner on ANY remedial action required. (time = money). From this consultation do the remedial action on the problem. Removing carbs involves quite a few other parts of the bike and is not easy. I know, I've done it a few times. The needle itself is an older model and has no adjustment shim as mentioned above. This IS a surmountable problem but involves in-depth knowledge of replacement types of needles.

To show what I described above you would need to watch a youtube video which gives a basic outline of the OP problem in relation to fuel flow and air mixture.


THIS explains it perfectly. OP's bike starts. OP's bike runs. OP's bike accelerates AND deccelerates as required BUT on decceleration exhaust pops.

Lastly.. changing the fixed length needle for an e-clip needle is a whole other problem and involves a science way beyond space to explain here. SO use shims ok ?
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KISS (KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID) is an addage we always followed when flying, when machining, building computers, fixing circuit boards, etc.. A lot of presumptions in the previous post. As you have done a spark plug read, and you have found it to be the right color, there's no point of talking about adjustments to a carburetor that cannot adjust that way. You could just for a set of "Flat Slide" carbs, and nasty header, start the whole process with the bike ending up on a dyno .

Great video though. :)
I'd wager it was popping on decel before the header, just can't hear it through the 20 pound(?) stock muffler, Pretty much all engines do it to some extent, I'd believe that's why the factory mufflers weigh so much.
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