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Discussion Starter #41
Ok, that is great info! While the battery disconnected and battery connected results appear to confirm all is good, I am very troubled by the fact that you could not hear the headlight relay click when it was energized. (terminals 15 and 9 energize relay "A" which is your headlight relay.

What I would like you to try (if you can) is to perform the same test of applying battery voltage to 15 & 9 while a load is applied to 5 & 10. Ideally, use your headlight bulb as the load. To do this however, you will need a power source for the switched side of the relay (5 & 10). This will of course be a bench test with the advantage that you have removed all other wiring, switches and connectors that are on your bike. When you do this test listen carefully for arcing, sparking or buzzing from the relay contacts and of course observe if the headlight bulb come on nice and bright and steady.

I am suspecting that your relay contacts have fused together to the extent that they won't conduct until the magnet draws them in tighter. Just a theory of course but it would explain why no click yet relay appears to work.

I am not sure how you did the first batch of tests, but my preference is to use jumpers that have proper connectors instead of alligator clips that can accidentally short out. So if you have, or can get the appropriate male or female connectors, this makes your testing much safer and more secure.
I have a bunch of spare wires with female and male pin ends for my bike, I used those with my alligator clips to do my test.
So for the next test I'm kinda confused. Do you want me to rigged up a bulb 5 and 10? While I power up 15 and 9?
 

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If your diodes at 15 & 16 have failed to "open circuit" then the load test I outlined will be useless. Are you sure the diodes have failed? Your OL result in both directions on the diodes indicates open circuit failure. As a quick check measure resistance and continuity between 15 and 9.

Also please confirm that all of your testing is with the box removed from the bike and completely disconnected from your bike's wiring harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
If your diodes at 15 & 16 have failed to "open circuit" then the load test I outlined will be useless. Are you sure the diodes have failed? Your OL result in both directions on the diodes indicates open circuit failure. As a quick check measure resistance and continuity between 15 and 9.

Also please confirm that all of your testing is with the box removed from the bike and completely disconnected from your bike's wiring harness.
Yes that is correct. On both test it comes with OL on my multimeter.
Yeah I took the Relay Box and Battery out of the bike. They are both on my bench.
 

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Ok so we have established that the problem resides within the sealed relay box. I don't know if it can be opened and repaired but if it is toast, then what do you have to lose by opening it?

But since this is your 2nd relay box that failed, what is more important is to figure out why they are failing.

Which brings me to my next question: Upon review of this thread I see that you replaced the relay box with part number 27002-0050 but Partzilla says a 2004 ZX-10R needs 27002-0001. I am wondering if 0050 superceded 0001 or did you somehow get the wrong part?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I tried to open it but it looks like I have to desolder the 3 male connectors off the green motherboard just to open it up. I don't have a way to desolder it.
Hmm that is interesting, I just looked it up they both fit on my bike. But I wonder if it's regional base? maybe one an upgraded part? I wonder if 0050 part is not really compatible to my bike and got overloaded.
I actually took my Bike to Kawasaki shop near me, they are the one that replaced the relay box for me. I was not confident at my own electrical skills and ability to use a multimeter.
 

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So do I understand that your have taken your bike back to the shop? I was going to say that it may be wise to do so at this point in time.

I was able to see that 0001 was superceded a few times with the final version at 0025. Having said that if you search on 0050 you will find sites that say it is correct for your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
No, I'm done with shops. When I asked what happened to my relay box (after they fixed it) they had no idea either.
Hmm the only thing I could think of at this point. Is that the 0050 is not compatible or either stable for older 04 Z10R. Maybe the 0001 is more reliable? I'm thinking of using the 0001 going forward, considering it's the part the Bike come with out of the factory. I haven't really found any thread online about 0001 being a bad relay.
 

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That sounds reasonable, but there is another possibility. If the bike has been mis-wired, or if there is a problem somewhere else, then it will just blow another relay box.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Honestly considering how modified this Bike is, it's not out of the question. I have spent a whole day once, unwrapping electrical tape to fix wires that just been tape up (not even soldered). Just been wrapped in electrical tape. This Bike is definitely one of Frankenstein monster.
This Bike has a tidy tipped taillights. Signal lights and brake lights packed in one.
Manual switch for the radiator ran. It's no longer connected to the thermostat.
 

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If it were me, I would open up that relay box, unless it is a potted box. Does it sound hollow when you tap on it? Can you flex the sides easily?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I'm waiting for the new relay box to come in before i pop this open. Because even though this relay box headlight is not working, it's still very functional to operate the bike.
I thought I'be replace my relay box with OEM one before I replaced the wire harness, I figure it's a less tedious job to do than replacing a whole harness. Specially if I didn't need it.
 
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