Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well since two of the cam caps cracked during shipping on my ZX600C Ninja engine, i have to get new ones. BUT of course they are line bored, Kawi only sells the entire head assembly. Do i need the entire head or just the cams/caps?


thanks :?:
 

·
AZ's Official Mechanic
Joined
·
5,201 Posts
the CORRECT way to do it is with a new head but if your on the cheap and not worried about the bike no lasting a long time then you could use two USED caps and hope for the best. you could have a machine shop line bore it to match the two factory caps that you know are correct. (if they have line bore small enough)
good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
I did the right hand end exhaust cam bearing on a CB750F. It had been assembled without the pipe that takes oil from the inlet cam to the exhaust cam, so no pressure lube there. The left side was fine only the end one on the right hand side seized (I recon because of the side stand angle draining that part of the head).
NEway… I made a borer that sat in the good cam bearings, turned it with a carpenters brace. I used a bolt through a tapped piece of angle iron as a stop – and by backing the bolt off, allowed a controlled ‘feed’ of the cutter. On the cam itself we had to cut the diameter down a bit so that we could sleeve that journal, and shrunk (interference fit) the sleeve on it, and machined the OD to have the right clearance to the ‘new’ bearing bore. Worked like a charm – that bike is still running today, (I sold it six years ago). Of course if it was not the ‘end’ bearing we would not have been able to ‘sleeve’ the cam… dunno if we could have done anything in that case…

;-)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
607 Posts
I would just buy another head. Anytime I've tried to cut corners it's almost always bitten me savagely in the @$$. Sucks to buy a new head, but it would suck even worse to have little bits molten aluminum from the cam journals eventually seize up your cam (causing valves to hit pistons--bending your valves and putting a large dent one of your pistons), break your camchain (causing links and pieces to fall down into your crankcase--essentially rendering your clutch, starter clutch and transmission an unserviceable paperweight.)

There's a very good reason why KHI advises that the head and cam-caps be installed as a set. The oil clearances are a crucial, crucial part of keeping everything happy in there.
If you do simply find some cam caps in a junkyard, PLEASE at least check the oil clearances with plastiguage, and even then be ready for the worst to happen.

I might mix-n-match close-tolerance parts like that for a Frankenbike experiment, but not on a bike I was licensing and riding on public roads, and certainly not one of my babies.

Checking the oil clearance (twice) on a '98 Superhawk's crankbearing:


Sorry to hear about the original caps showing up busted. Ebay seller? Good luck!
-CCinC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all the responses guys! I accutally just bought a complete head off ebay that comes with cams,caps,vavles etc. I got it for 53.45 shipped :)
 

·
AZ's Official Mechanic
Joined
·
5,201 Posts
tissan said:
Thanks for all the responses guys! I accutally just bought a complete head off ebay that comes with cams,caps,vavles etc. I got it for 53.45 shipped :)
take it to a machine shop and have it magnafluxed to check for cracks in the valve seats etc. theres a reason the motors being split up and it could be the head was junk. :neutral:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
QKENUF4U said:
take it to a machine shop and have it magnafluxed to check for cracks in the valve seats etc. theres a reason the motors being split up and it could be the head was junk. :neutral:

Nope accutally he tried to sell it complete on ebay (i saw the auction) and it didnt sell so now hes parting the engine out
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top