[FlyerDon]

I'm at the point where it's time to start working on the cosmetic area of my 83's refurb. Although the paint isn't as bad as some I see, the bike is 40 years old after all and the paint needs help. I decided to keep the original colors and scheme but get it in shape for next summer. I am using Rest-oleum 2X because it provides a pretty good finish for the least amount of money. If you prep the surface properly and follow the directions, it does a darned good job. The only thing you have to look out for is when it's used on gas tanks and spill a lot of gas on it, it will run a little and I've found it's best in those cases to just let it dry without rubbing it with a rag or you'll end up with a mess. So far I've done the tank and side panels and am about to do the front fender. I found the original pin-striping to be in pretty good shape so I leave that in place and use it as a guide between colors. I'll try to get a snapshot of some of the pieces. I don't have the badges or final clear-coat on yet.

 

[Kawasakian]

I would apply a couple of layers of clear coat. That will protect the paint. Get automotive quality, and you should be good to go. There is a spray that is used when painting on a painted surface, that really make the paint bond on excellently. You just wipe it on. Your local Auto body Supply shop will know the name. I have a can in my barn, it would take me so long to find, I would probably just buy a new one, but you wipe each area only once, wait 15 minutes DON'T TOUCH THE SURFACE! Then spray the surface, the results are amazing.

 

[FlyerDon]

I would apply a couple of layers of clear coat. That will protect the paint. Get automotive quality, and you should be good to go. There is a spray that is used when painting on a painted surface, that really make the paint bond on excellently. You just wipe it on. Your local Auto body Supply shop will know the name. I have a can in my barn, it would take me so long to find, I would probably just buy a new one, but you wipe each area only once, wait 15 minutes DON'T TOUCH THE SURFACE! Then spray the surface, the results are amazing.

I have quite a way to go yet. I will wet sand and give probably another three or four coats of both the silver and black. I should have shown some original photos. Fortunately, the badging covers a lot of the worst parts. I'm pretty sure they'll turn out pretty well in the end.

 

[1981GPZ550]

Eastwood sells a two part aerosol that is as durable as what you buy and mix from the auto body supply companies. The can has an internal chamber, when ready to use a plastic button is used to pierce the chamber releasing part two. Shake well and spray like any aerosol can. Of course you can not save unused portion. I tested the durability of the product by spraying F150 control arms and other front end parts, drove the truck thru upstate NY winter and the paint survived. Only drawback is not many colors are offered. As a point of reference I have used other products such as Rust oleum to paint the same parts in the past and by spring it would be almost 100 percent gone. The black gives a pretty nice gloss.

 

[FlyerDon]

I have some Eastwood products in the cupboard. They are just about as good as a professional job.

 

[C-130 jumper]

I used 2K Glamour Clear on my rattle can job, performed well on Rust-Oleum Industrial and on wheels after a good cleaning. 2K will chip however. If painting in cool weather putting spray cans in a pot of warm water helps with orange peel.

 

[Kawasakian]

Really came out great looking!

 

[FlyerDon]

I'll give that a try as I'm just starting on the wheels which had plenty of built up crud and oxidation. I used several different cleaning methods and found that when it came to bringing back the luster to the polished parts of the wheel I had to use a combination of steel wool and 400 grit sandpaper. That really made a difference. Rubbing with any polishing compound was getting me no where fast. I'll post some pictures later.

 

[WFO-KZ]

Once the heavy oxidization has been removed, a product like Autosol will work wonders. (no affiliation)

 

[C-130 jumper]

I'll give that a try as I'm just starting on the wheels which had plenty of built up crud and oxidation. I used several different cleaning methods and found that when it came to bringing back the luster to the polished parts of the wheel I had to use a combination of steel wool and 400 grit sandpaper. That really made a difference. Rubbing with any polishing compound was getting me no where fast. I'll post some pictures later.

I used dollar store oven cleaner and dish brush with high pressure water to get the caked on brake dust off and set out in the hot sun to dry. The bearings were out so water contamination wasn't a factor.

 

[FlyerDon]

Once the heavy oxidization has been removed, a product like Autosol will work wonders. (no affiliation)

I've never heard of that product. Exactly what does it do. I'm most concerned now how to keep the shiny part of the wheels from re-oxidizing. What, other than a clear coat type of paint, is out there?

 

[WFO-KZ]

You can probably find Autosol at Walmart or automotive or even hardware stores. I was able to turn dull aluminum into a mirror finish with very little effort. Found this writeup on it. I just use a very small piece of soft cloth to apply and buff it.
You can use a powered buffing wheel too if doing a large surface.

A warning about trying to clearcoat aluminum:

You must remove all traces of any waxes or cleaners from the pores of the aluminum or the clearcoat will look like crap. I never bothered with clearcoat on my aluminum, because I found the shine would last at least a year and then a quick buff returns it to normal brilliance.

 

[Kawasakian]

I use rouge to clean, then polish aluminum, it's easier to hit it with a buffing wheel ever year or so to get it looking like Chrome again. Clear coat, if it cracks, let water in and the oxidation causes pits. I am almost done doing all my GS750ES cases that were clear coated brushed aluminum. The honestly looked horrible. Now they look great!

 

[WFO-KZ]

Exactly. It is so much work to apply and remove clear coat I don't bother with it on aluminum.

Yes rouge works well too. Every machine shop had some in stock and with 12" buffing wheels mounted on stationary grinders they would polish aluminum like nobody's business. But if you got overzealous and pushed the aluminum into the wheel too hard, the wheel would snatch it out of your hands and hurl it across the room at a very high velocity. This usually happened just as you were almost done polishing. LOL. Ahhh, fun times.

 

[Kawasakian]

I have a hand held Makita disc Grinder, and put the Rouge on a cloth wheel I found for it. It's very effective, and you can really control what you want to route to polish by the pressure you apply. It's what I've done my cases with.

 

[C-130 jumper]

You can probably find Autosol at Walmart or automotive or even hardware stores. I was able to turn dull aluminum into a mirror finish with very little effort. Found this writeup on it. I just use a very small piece of soft cloth to apply and buff it.
You can use a powered buffing wheel too if doing a large surface.
View attachment 45793

A warning about trying to clearcoat aluminum:

You must remove all traces of any waxes or cleaners from the pores of the aluminum or the clearcoat will look like crap. I never bothered with clearcoat on my aluminum, because I found the shine would last at least a year and then a quick buff returns it to normal brilliance.

This is good advice and I failed to mention the wheel I clear coated had factory powder coating.

 

[FlyerDon]

This is good advice and I failed to mention the wheel I clear coated had factory p