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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was looking to see if anyone has had the problem I have but meanwhile I have learned a lot about my bike in just twenty minutes on this site. So to start with this site is AMAZING.
Now to my problem.
I have a 2004 Vulcan 800 Classic.
Unfortunately I do not have an inside storage space at this time, but I am working on that. I do keep my Classic covered very well but alas it is stored outside on gravel driveway.
The last time I actually rode was about two months ago. I start my bike each week and let it run for approx. 20 minutes. Yesterday I went to take a ride since it was a nice day. After letting the bike warm up I went to pull away and the bike bogged down and stalled. I thought maybe I was just out of practice and just messed up so I restarted the bike and tried again. Same result. I then thought "hey stupid, did you leave the kickstand down?" I checked and I did not leave the kickstand down. Restarted and tried to go again. This time paying alot more attention to what was happening. THe bike seemed to squat down like it was trying to go but then stalled out again. At this time I thought maybe the front brake was locked up. I went to work on it to make sure it was O.K. After a couple of minutes I verified that the front brake was operating correctly. I then turned my attention to the rear brake. I put the bike in neutral and tried to roll it forward and back. the front tire rolls and the rear drags through the gravel. I checked the linkage from the pedal to the rear drum and it appears to be fine and in great working condition. I removed the linkage to the rear drum and moved the lever going into the rear drum and it appears to be fine but the wheel is definitely locked up for some reason.
At this point I guess that my question is "What could be wrong back there?"
Any information or suggestions will be welcomed. At this point I guess that I am going to start to remove the rear wheel and start breaking it down to see if I can find any issues.
Thanks for any suggestions in advance and I hope that in the future I can help out someone else, or at least ride with you all.
 

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First off welcome T&S , Sound's like you found the problem. The only way to know ,is to get the bike off the ground . Then start removing the rear wheel.If you already loosened the linkage an it still binding then it's internal. I don't think it will be anything major, just one of those pain in the a*s*s problems that you deal with when you should be riding.This is also how you get to know your bike.Let us know when you open it up what you find an then we can go from there. Kinda hard to tell what the problem is over the internet,but with everyone's help it is doable.
 

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Since it's being stored on gravel, make sure it's just not your chain that has gotten tight, as in rusted. Anyway, since you have to loosen that up first, make sure you isolate the chain and tranny from your equation, before removing the wheel all the way. If the brakes have iodized, they can sometimes be broken loose by tapping the drum with a rubber mallet,(piece of wood and a hammer) and backing the bike up. (Two man operation is best) Hope this helps, and I wish ya luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
O.K. Done About a three hour operation since it was my first time to break down the rear of the bike, if this occurs again I will first try the rubber mallet thing and if that doesn't work then I will probably be able to fix in about an hour.
Breakdown was pretty simple, Assembly I had to do three times because I would put a couple of parts together and then realize that something had to go above the other and would not go there unless the other was not yet put together etc. etc. etc.
When I broke the wheel apart I had some trouble seperating the housing which is where the pads are attached from the drum, which would be expected if the brakes were locked up. As I was trying to get this seperated, and now that I think of it I was tapping on it with a mallet, it suddenly broke free and just slid right out. Pretty much problem solved at that point although I did quite a bit of inspection to see if there was anything else.
Reassembled wheel and back end and all worked just PEACHY.
All in all it was a good experience and actually fairly simple to complete the work. While I had it all apart I took the opportunity to clean and lube all the right stuff since I know that it had not been done and turned an afternoon of doom and gloom into hope for the future.
NOW I WANT TO RIDE BUT THE WEATHER IS HORRIBLE !!!
Hope this helps someone in the future, and like Bud said I am certainly going to do the mallet thing with the wheel still on the bike first if this should happen again (which I hope that it doesn't).
Thanks for the help everyone.
 

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tileandslate said:
O.K. Done About a three hour operation since it was my first time to break down the rear of the bike, if this occurs again I will first try the rubber mallet thing and if that doesn't work then I will probably be able to fix in about an hour.
Breakdown was pretty simple, Assembly I had to do three times because I would put a couple of parts together and then realize that something had to go above the other and would not go there unless the other was not yet put together etc. etc. etc.
When I broke the wheel apart I had some trouble seperating the housing which is where the pads are attached from the drum, which would be expected if the brakes were locked up. As I was trying to get this seperated, and now that I think of it I was tapping on it with a mallet, it suddenly broke free and just slid right out. Pretty much problem solved at that point although I did quite a bit of inspection to see if there was anything else.
Reassembled wheel and back end and all worked just PEACHY.
All in all it was a good experience and actually fairly simple to complete the work. While I had it all apart I took the opportunity to clean and lube all the right stuff since I know that it had not been done and turned an afternoon of doom and gloom into hope for the future.
NOW I WANT TO RIDE BUT THE WEATHER IS HORRIBLE !!!
Hope this helps someone in the future, and like Bud said I am certainly going to do the mallet thing with the wheel still on the bike first if this should happen again (which I hope that it doesn't).
Thanks for the help everyone.
Well , glad to here it all worked out for you. Good part is it didn't cost you anything but some time an you got to know your bike a little better. That's whats good about having the older guy's around here,<BG> they've been down this road before an learned about the problems the way you did.
 

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This may be somewhat related, I don't know. I had a 2003 800B I bought used. After I rode it home from the dealer and started to wheel it into the garage I noticed it did not roll easy. When I touched the rear hub, it was almost too hot to touch, but not quite. All it turned out to be was that the break linkage adjusting nut back by the rear break was in too far. I didn't notice it when riding. There seemed to be a normal amount of play in the brake pedal. I asked the dealer and one of the sales guys who owned an 800B said the hub will normally get warm, but not hot. On the 2005 800A I now have I heve felt for excessive heat on the rear hub after riding but there is none. And I've never had a problem of the bike no rolling easy. But I have also noticed that my back brake doesn't seem to have a lot of stopping power. If I sit on the bike and engage the rear brake only, it will prevent you from moving the bike, but when I try to use only it when stopping (only for test purposes - I always use the front for 80% of stopping power), it doesn't seem to have a lot of stopping power by itself. Maybe my 800A rear brake needs to be adjusted a little tighter.
 

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RIP Deron Harden :-(
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welcome to the forum tileandslate, glad to hear that your bike is rolling again. i am assuming that it is still under warranty, so, just a thought, you may want to take a ride down to your dealership. maybe just explain what happened to the service manager and maybe, like 800AJAY had to do, they will just have to adjust something to fix the problem. just a thought.
 

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800AJAY said:
Maybe there's a real fine line between too tight and not tight enough on the 800's rear brakes?
I wouldn't say a fine line . I tend to adjust with the feel of the pedal. One other thing , whenever you adjust the chain tension you'll have to adjust the brake linkage.
 

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Very warm welcome tileandslate! You'll find that this site becomes addictive. We are all addicts now... "Hi, I'm Chromequeen and I'm a Kawasakiholic" lol :)
 

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woodchucks800 said:
I wouldn't say a fine line . I tend to adjust with the feel of the pedal. One other thing , whenever you adjust the chain tension you'll have to adjust the brake linkage.

Yes, I found that out after adjusting my chain the first time. It wouldn't roll after I tightened the axle nut. I think if you loosen the torque link nut before you make any adjustments, it will help.
 

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Rear brake adjustment

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You have to adjust your rear brake so that the pedal has 20 to 30 MM of throw. On a new bike, you may have to adjust it more often till the shoes seat and the cable stops stretching. You should lubricate the rear brake cable whenever you remove it. repositioning the rear wheel, like chain adjustment, requires a brake adjustment every time. Your front brake retains 60 percent of the braking power while the rear brake assumes 40 percent. Somewhat like in a automobile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Speed,
I am so unimpressed with my dealer. The few times that I have contacted them I get different answers for the same questions and when I called them about this problem they "No that's not going to be covered under warranty" without even looking. I could have had a cracked or broken pad or cracked drum...my point is that I was checking to see if there was any speceific type of problem that KAW was having or if it was probably something that I did. I guess in the end I figured that it was probably something I did but the responses that I get from my local chattanooga dealer are rediculous.
Another thing when I tore my brakes apart, the cam that the linkage is attached to works BOTH WAYS. What I mean is if you adjust the brake too tight the brake may be slightly applied but also if you have it adjusted too loose it will also be applied because the cam has the freedom to move the opposite. Of course this will probably only be a problem specific to people with floorboards due to the floorboard keeping the pedal from returning completely to the top. I don't think that you would have the problem with pegs. And it may only be specific to the type of floorboards that I have.
Anyway, now that I have found this site I am sure that I will be able to get much more assistance than I could ever get from the dealer.
Also, thanks for the tremendous welcome. It is nice to see the friendship that I see here. Hope to ride with y'all soon.
 

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Glad ya got your trusty mount on the road again tile and slate. One other thing that helps with the rubber mallet is exerting rearward force while tapping the hub. Going backwards has the least braking capabilities, and therefore helps in breaking the pads loose from the drum. Your whole problem is just moisture oxidation between the pads and the aluminum of the drum. That's why bikes with rotors don't have that problem. For the time being, just rock your scoot once in awhile, and hit the rear brakes a time or two.
The other fella that said his rear brakes wasn't working to good anymore is that they became glazed when they got hot. Just tear her down and rub some of the roughest grit sandpaper over it that you can find, til fresh brake lining shows up, then do the same to your drum til the glaze is gone. If the pads got to hot, you might have to replace them, cause having them applied lightly for a period of time on the road can get things so hot that you can distort the whole drum ! NOW, I'm done. (temporarily) Hope I helped.
 

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RIP Deron Harden :-(
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sorry to hear about your problems with the dealer, that is a pain. it really is a bummer not having the luxury of calling them and getting some help. time to look at a different dealer ? i would imagine that there is at least one near you.
 

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first off, i would like to proclaim my immense relief and satisfaction upon stumbling into this forum. i performed a google search and tileandslate's question was produced as a related topic. i am glad to see that this problem is not too unusual, though not very glad that it has occurred-to say the least.
i ride an '04 vulcan800. after adjusting my chain tension, my rear brake locked up and i cannot figure out how to reverse this error. i loosened the torque link nut before making adjustments and tightened it after the procedure was complete. unfortunately, i am still in the same situation. i do not have a car, so it is imperative that i get my bike rolling again and soon. any information and insight will be greatly appreciated. thank you in advance.
aaron
 

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first off, i would like to proclaim my immense relief and satisfaction upon stumbling into this forum. i performed a google search and tileandslate's question was produced as a related topic. i am glad to see that this problem is not too unusual, though not very glad that it has occurred-to say the least.
i ride an '04 vulcan800. after adjusting my chain tension, my rear brake locked up and i cannot figure out how to reverse this error. i loosened the torque link nut before making adjustments and tightened it after the procedure was complete. unfortunately, i am still in the same situation. i do not have a car, so it is imperative that i get my bike rolling again and soon. any information and insight will be greatly appreciated. thank you in advance.
aaron
Yo! Newbie! Welcome to the forum, hopefully someone will come along to help you out. But, if you look in the upper left corner of the post above yours, you'll see that you've resurrected a thread that's almost 6 years old. People tend to shy away from threads like this. I recommend starting a new thread in "The Mechanics Corner", you're much more likely to get a response there. Good luck!
 
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