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Discussion Starter #1
All has been well since I replaced the rings on my 220 Bayou. It ran good, lots of power, no abnormal noises, until now.

Last week we got some good snow, so I've been riding it pretty heavily the past few days. It recently developed a squeak in the rear end. It doesn't do it much when rolling, only driving. I'm fairly sure it's not a bearing in the differential because shortly after I bought the bike I changed the fluid and it was terrible. I think the bearings would have failed then instead of now with clean fluid.

I'm pretty sure that it's the universal joint on the driveshaft. It squeaks loudly when driving and you can feel it catching every now and then. I'm hoping it's just dry and I'm going to try filling the boot back up with grease tomorrow. I'm pretty sure it's not torn. Thoughts?

I also got around to making a new front bumper for it. It's nothing special but it is worlds stronger than the stock one.
 

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do you have a bunch of snow paked in the cv part of the shaft (around the rear diff and under the shield of the diff) or hows the rear shoes ,may have snow paked in the drum.

take and put your quad up in the air so you can put it in gear with out it takin off on you and use a stathascope or a long handle screw driver and put your ear on the end of the screw driver and find where that sqeek is comein from xactly. you may have to thaw it out and see what happens then,if there is a way to post up what the noise sounds like we can pinpoint more gooder,

or just may want to take the tire off and the drums just to check the brakes
 

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Never quite fixed.
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496 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
do you have a bunch of snow paked in the cv part of the shaft (around the rear diff and under the shield of the diff) or hows the rear shoes ,may have snow paked in the drum.

take and put your quad up in the air so you can put it in gear with out it takin off on you and use a stathascope or a long handle screw driver and put your ear on the end of the screw driver and find where that sqeek is comein from xactly. you may have to thaw it out and see what happens then,if there is a way to post up what the noise sounds like we can pinpoint more gooder,

or just may want to take the tire off and the drums just to check the brakes
I'm pretty sure it's not the brake, but I will look at it today. I'll also try that screwdriver trick. I don't think it's packed with snow, but I will check it out.


What kind of joint is inside the boot on the front of the shaft? Does it even require grease? I've been looking at the parts diagrams online and I can't seem to identify what kind of joint that is.
 

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Never quite fixed.
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496 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I just gave everything a look over. The CV joint boots are both in good shape and not torn. That is ruled out.

I drained the differential fluid, all is well except the fluid had some water in it. No metal shavings.

I check the brake, still made the noise with the hub removed. Not that.

This pretty much rules it down to a bearing inside the diff. It sounds to me like the squeak is coming from the middle of the diff, around where the middle bearing is. Is this hard to replace? Since I caught it early I don't think it ruined the casings.

Also, when the bearing catches, it will continue to drag for a bit and will let go on it's own or when you turn it backwards.

Here is a pic that shows what bearings I think could be bad in the differential (Circled). The diagram says they are all the same and are about 20.00.

 

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the only problems your gonna have in the rebuild is if you dont have a inch pound wrench and a dial indicator rear diff set up book your gonna have problems.you have to watch pinion pre load and back lash and rotating force,it is a complicated thing to do if you have never done it before ,if you get the back lash to tight or the preload your gonna fry the bearings and the ring and pinion quickly and a raoring or whinning noise and take a chance on damageing the case.the rear diff is like a auto mobile its a fine line beteewn right and wrong,it may be best to have a machine shop or a dealer set it up for you cause your gonna need a bearing puller to remove the pinion bearin and the carrier bearings.

best bet is find a used rear end in good shape on ebay or a atv wreckage yard,do a google search there are plent of junk yards that may have what your huntin fer
 

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Never quite fixed.
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496 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
the only problems your gonna have in the rebuild is if you dont have a inch pound wrench and a dial indicator rear diff set up book your gonna have problems.you have to watch pinion pre load and back lash and rotating force,it is a complicated thing to do if you have never done it before ,if you get the back lash to tight or the preload your gonna fry the bearings and the ring and pinion quickly and a raoring or whinning noise and take a chance on damageing the case.the rear diff is like a auto mobile its a fine line beteewn right and wrong,it may be best to have a machine shop or a dealer set it up for you cause your gonna need a bearing puller to remove the pinion bearin and the carrier bearings.

best bet is find a used rear end in good shape on ebay or a atv wreckage yard,do a google search there are plent of junk yards that may have what your huntin fer
I see what you. I've never worked on a differential before so this is all new. I'm going to try and overfill the rear-end and see if maybe one of the bearings just ran dry for some reason. If that doesn't work I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I just checked ebay and they have diffs for 100.00 and up. Is it any easier at all being the 220 doesn't have a differential but just a ring gear and drive gear? There isn't a differential carrier, or differential gears. It's a solid axle with a gear on it.

I there any way I can just take it apart enough to where I can find out what the problem is without messing with the current adjustment? I saw on ebay they had just the casing, no axles or tubes attached.

On the positive side, I got my trike running and driving good. Just need a camshaft seal and wheel bearings and it should be good to go. :)
 

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I did my Prairie 400 rearend and it's a little on the loose side but it works...

It's not easier considering that, it's equally as hard. The gear lash is difficult to setup but not impossible and you'll never learn if you don't start somewhere. The best thing you can do is follow the factory kawasaki service manual for setup of the backlash and contact pattern. Both my manuals have an section explaining how to setup the rearend properly.

The only thing that bugs me about setting up the gear set is that the Kawasaki adjustment shims are sold individually and most small and medium dealerships aren't going to have any in stock at the parts counter. Which means you have to order a handful and hope you have the right combo and if you don't, wait a week to order a few more.
 

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Usually when there is water in the differential of the 220 and it squeaks, the problem is not a bearing. I suspect it is the bushing that supports the end of the pinion shaft, part #92088.

If so, it is an $11 part, and requires you polish the rust off the end of the pinion and does not always need a new bushing either.

If it is that, you are talking a 25 minute job with an electric impact wrench.

Pull the four bolts on part #31064, pull the differential out the back, and remove the pinion bearing support, pull the pinion, and take a look at the end of the stub on the pinion shaft. If it is rusty, clean it up with fine crocus cloth, clean up any mess, oil it and slide it back in and button it up if the shaft runs free.

No adjustments needed.

If the shaft binds in the bushing, add another hour and pull the hub, the axle, the right side of the ring gear housing, and then pull the ring gear and final gear shaft as a unit. Remove flanged bolt #4130, then reach in and pop the bushing out of the housing, and toss in a new bushing.

Zip it back together as you found it, again no adjustments needed. But do install a new O ring on the ring gear housing. The entire job costs maybe $15, and some new grease.
 

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Never quite fixed.
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Discussion Starter #9
I did my Prairie 400 rearend and it's a little on the loose side but it works...

It's not easier considering that, it's equally as hard. The gear lash is difficult to setup but not impossible and you'll never learn if you don't start somewhere. The best thing you can do is follow the factory kawasaki service manual for setup of the backlash and contact pattern. Both my manuals have an section explaining how to setup the rearend properly.

The only thing that bugs me about setting up the gear set is that the Kawasaki adjustment shims are sold individually and most small and medium dealerships aren't going to have any in stock at the parts counter. Which means you have to order a handful and hope you have the right combo and if you don't, wait a week to order a few more.
You're right in the chance that there isn't any shims near me. I'm hoping I won't have to go in that far but we'll see.

Usually when there is water in the differential of the 220 and it squeaks, the problem is not a bearing. I suspect it is the bushing that supports the end of the pinion shaft, part #92088.

If so, it is an $11 part, and requires you polish the rust off the end of the pinion and does not always need a new bushing either.

If it is that, you are talking a 25 minute job with an electric impact wrench.

Pull the four bolts on part #31064, pull the differential out the back, and remove the pinion bearing support, pull the pinion, and take a look at the end of the stub on the pinion shaft. If it is rusty, clean it up with fine crocus cloth, clean up any mess, oil it and slide it back in and button it up if the shaft runs free.

No adjustments needed.

If the shaft binds in the bushing, add another hour and pull the hub, the axle, the right side of the ring gear housing, and then pull the ring gear and final gear shaft as a unit. Remove flanged bolt #4130, then reach in and pop the bushing out of the housing, and toss in a new bushing.

Zip it back together as you found it, again no adjustments needed. But do install a new O ring on the ring gear housing. The entire job costs maybe $15, and some new grease.
That's what I wanted to hear. :)

I'm having a hard time identifying the pinion. Is it the small shaft coming off the drive-shaft that turns the ring gear? I also can't find that part number for the bushing on the diagram. Did you mean part #92028? That's also in the area where the noise is coming from.

Thanks for the help guys.
 

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The pinion shaft is part number 49022 near the bottom of the diagram the bushing that RCW is referring to is just to the right of that shaft, part number 92028.

My Prairie 400 did not have that bushing...you might get lucky!
 

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Never quite fixed.
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Discussion Starter #11
The pinion shaft is part number 49022 near the bottom of the diagram the bushing that RCW is referring to is just to the right of that shaft, part number 92028.

My Prairie 400 did not have that bushing...you might get lucky!
Ok. I have one more quick question. The rear shocks are connected to the differential correct? Do they require a compressor for the springs or am I good by just removing the bolts and pulling them out?

I'm about to go tear into it here when I get some small things finished up.
 

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Never quite fixed.
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Discussion Starter #12
I did what RCW said and the bushing and needle bearing were in great shape. Nothing wrong there. So I took a peek down the drive shaft boot and right past the CV-joint there is a bearing in the shaft. That has tons of play and was full of dirt so that's what was making the noise. It looks to be held in by a snap ring, so I'm going to go at it again and look for how to get that bearing out.
 

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yeap take the bolts out and the shock comes out as a whole,you will not have to worry about the spring flyin out unless the retainer is broken .
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yeap take the bolts out and the shock comes out as a whole,you will not have to worry about the spring flyin out unless the retainer is broken .
Thats what I thought. Didn't have any trouble there.

The snap ring on the bearing came out without much trouble. The bearing is being a real bugger though and not wanting to cooperate. I've been getting at it with a gear puller from the back, and it's working but slowly. Tomorrow I'm going to finish getting it out and try to see how the CV joint comes off the other end.

I've been looking around and this repair has been done before. I've read that a press will get the joint off, I don't have one but I'm sure I could find someone who does.

drive shaft repair (bayou 220) - Page 2 - Kawasaki ATV Forum
 

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Never quite fixed.
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Discussion Starter #15
Well it turns out that bearing wasn't as bad as I though but just had some grit in it. I flushed it out and greased it then threw everything back together and the squeak is gone and it's nice and smooth.
 

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im sorry im slow what bearing did you take off again? glad to see you got the pesky squeak figured out ,we are now gettin snow :) in inchec hopefully feet tonite so we can go play on are quads ,we love gettin pulled behind them on a sled its real fun lol
 

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Never quite fixed.
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Discussion Starter #17
im sorry im slow what bearing did you take off again? glad to see you got the pesky squeak figured out ,we are now gettin snow :) in inchec hopefully feet tonite so we can go play on are quads ,we love gettin pulled behind them on a sled its real fun lol
The bearing off of part #52966. The diagram doesn't have it listed as it's own because it's not supposed to be serviceable.

We've been getting tons of snow here, but none of it's been sticking. Earlier this morning we were having quarter sized flakes that were coming down hard. I've got my fingers crossed that we'll get some more.
 
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