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John 3:16
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OK if you need to remove your clutch cover (right side engine cover) for some reason the instructions below is how I done it. I couldn't find anyone on here who has done this before so hopefully this will help someone.

First, I want to say this isn't an easy job. If you can I would recommend taking it the the closest shop and letting them do it. If you cant afford to do that or you want to give it a shot yourself here goes.

1. You will need to order a new gasket that goes around the whole right side of the engine. If fits in between the cover and the engine itself. Also if you are installing a new cover you will need 2 bearings and 1 seal. The bearings fit in the cover where the clutch rod come in through the bottom. Here is the link to purchase them on line.
Babbitts Sports Center | Arctic Cat OEM Parts | Can-Am (Bombardier) OEM Parts | Honda OEM Parts | Kawasaki OEM Parts | Polaris OEM Parts | Sea-Doo OEM Parts | Ski-Doo OEM Parts | Suzuki OEM Parts | Yamaha OEM Parts
Part#'s 11060, 92046 x2, 92049

2. Remove the exhaust

3. Remove the air box. It will come off in 3 pieces. The outside cover is removed by the 4 visible bolts. The middle piece is removed by 1 Phillips bolt in the top. And the back piece is removed by 7 bolts. The bottom 2 have washers on them so be careful not to loose them. After that it should pull away from the engine. 2 hoses and 1 sensor are hooked into the back of the 3rd piece.

4. Remove the clutch cable. I took it loose from the lever first. Then from the clutch rod going into the bottom of the cover.

5. Drain the engine oil. Dont worry about the filter unless it needs replaced anyways.

6. Drain all the coolant. I left the reserve tank full. I drained it by doing the next step.

7. Unhook the coolant pipe going into the front of the cover. It is held on by 1 8mm bolt. If you haven't drained the coolant yet you might want to put a pan under the pipe before you pull it out.It also has a rubber o-ring on it. I used the old one when i put it back in the new cover.

8. Remove all the bolts in the cover. The 2 in the middle of the cover are different lengths then the rest of them. The hard part of this step is that the 2 bottom bolts on the right side are directly behind the frame. The ones with the clips on the bottoms of them. To get them out I had to loosen the frame piece and pry it back. Maybe you can find an easier way. Those 2 bolt are also shorter then the rest. If you are putting on a new cover you will also need to remove the 8mm bolt in the bottom(coolant drain plug).

9. Turn the clutch rod toward the rear of the bike. The cover should pop off. The down pipe going into the top of the cover should come off with it. If you haven't drained your oil by this step you will have a mess like I did.

Thats it. I also took the right floorboard loose and pushed it toward the front to get it out of my way. I hope I didn't forget anything. If I did or you have any questions feel free to send me a pm. I will try my best to answer. Hope this helps someone.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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28,016 Posts
Oil and coolant?

Wow... the 1600 can be done on the sidestand without losing a drop of any fluid.
 

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John 3:16
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Oil and coolant?

Wow... the 1600 can be done on the sidestand without losing a drop of any fluid.
yeah thats what i thought....if i would have known what a job it was gonna be i wouldnt have changed it. then i didnt know i needed to order those bearings and had to wait 5 day for them to come in before i could put it back on. :eek:
 

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Thank you so much

Just wanted to say thanks for posting this info. This weekend I developed an antifreeze leak where the water hose fitting goes into the clutch cover on my 900 classic. The bike was hit in the parking lot about 2 months ago and knocked over onto the right side. Insurance replaced the handlebars, pegs, Cobra pipes, and other small chrome parts that got scraped up but no real damage. Now I'm thinking maybe something jarred that fitting because the nut broke off in my hand upon hand tightening it. So I tried to remove the broken bolt with an EZ out and the EZ out broke off in the bolt. So I was struggling to remove that clutch cover and couldn't figure out how to get to those two bolts hidden behind the frame. Thanks to your post after about 5 minutes of loosening the frame and then struggling with the clutch cable I was able to remove the clutch cover. Thanks for the help. Now heres to hoping the machine shop can save it so I don't have to fork out over $300 for the cover and necessary replacement parts that go along with a new Clutch cover.

Thanks for your help.

Matt
2006 Silver Vulcan 900 Classic
 

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Rich Thanks to you also

Rich this doesn't apply to the above post but your comments on here have guided me in the right direction on many occasions. I appreciate your putting your wisdom out there for the rest of is Noobz. Thanks.


Matt
2006 Silver Vulcan 900 Classic
 

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Re: Rich Thanks to you also

I'm currently doing the same thing to my bike in order to paint the clutch cover mat black. I have a question regarding the loosening of the frame bolts.


How much did you loosen them in order to make room? I'm looking at mine right now and i'm seeing that it's probably better to loosen and/or remove the rear bolts to make room but a question arises of how much? and since you have the experience i'm asking you :)"
 

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I did this last week. I removed the 2 on the side and 1in front to flex it enough. Be very careful not to strip the screw. Make sure the allan key is deep seated. My bike is also on a square jack so I wouldn't revove it completely if your bike is on the ground.

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My Son and I replaced the clutch plates and springs in his 900 this weekend. I fear we didn't align the clutch release shaft correctly. I can't feel any back pressure from the springs when I rotate it.

So, is there a way to line the dang thing up without taking the cover off? I never want to remove that cover again - NEVER.

I crafted a special tool by grinding down an allen wrench so I could grasp it with vice grips to turn those bolts behind the frame. Not Fun even with the frame lose.
 

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Politicians' Nightmare
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1,871 Posts
My Son and I replaced the clutch plates and springs in his 900 this weekend. I fear we didn't align the clutch release shaft correctly. I can't feel any back pressure from the springs when I rotate it.

So, is there a way to line the dang thing up without taking the cover off? I never want to remove that cover again - NEVER.

I crafted a special tool by grinding down an allen wrench so I could grasp it with vice grips to turn those bolts behind the frame. Not Fun even with the frame lose.
The awful news is that looking at the clutch section in the Kawi VN900 service manual it doesn't appear that there is any method for aligning the clutch release shaft (alignment isn't even mentioned) or any other internal components without removing the cover. The shop manual clutch procedure has lots of do's and don'ts.

It all appears to be a super fiddly job and if I had to do it I would either take my bike to a competent shop, but the cost might be about what the bike is worth. For me replacing the stator was hassle enough. Not using a torque wrench and a new gasket to fasten the cover the first time resulted in a bad oil leak. Good luck!.
 

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I figured it out. It wasn't an issue with allignment at all. The clutch, a Barnet complete clutch kit, had too few plates and spacers. I had to 'reshuffle the deck' so to speak and re-use the outermost plates in order to get the correct thickness.

The good news is the clutch feels great now. No slipping and no grabbing when it's not supposed to. The bad news is that the water pump might be leaking into the oil. The oil fill window has a haze on it from the inside. As soon as the bike cools a little I'm going to drain the oil and inspect it.

Keeping my fingers crossed that all is well.

My son did learn a whole lot from the exerience so I count it as a plus.
 

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Politicians' Nightmare
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Congrats, and good to hear that you solved the clutch problem! About the haze on your oil level window, my VN900 developed a haze on the window as well and has no coolant leak so hopefully yours doesn't actually have a leak, either. It became much easier to see the oil level when I switched oils to Shell Rotella T6 synthetic 5w-40. As long as the engine oil isn't milky there likely isn't anything to worry about regarding coolant or moisture getting into the oil.
 
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