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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to start customizing my bike, I think the best way to start is exhaust, mainly for looks and sounds rather then performance. Is this the best way to start? I have been doing some research and want a quality exhaust for about $300. So far my top pick are the Sarachu pipes they seem like quality pipes and I hear they sound good. What do I lose by upgrading my exhaust, I hear things like flat spots and performance decrease, is that true? Also can someone explain the poping aftermarket exhaust has in more detail? Mainly I want something that sounds nice.
 

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I personally would not start with customizing with a pipe, but rather put the money into a better suspension. A better suspension that is set up right will help keep your tires to the road and allow you to ride better. The second area to upgrade if you are going to be a serious rider is in lighter rims = less rotational mass. This will help you accelerate faster, decelerate faster, brake later going into a turn, get on the gas sooner in a turn and offer some nice bling as well.

Most "riders" want to sound and look good and there is nothing wrong with that. The others that have the Sarachu can chime in on your specific questions and I would have to say they do look nice!
 

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Lot of people go with looks before performance, and sound before performance...its the looks and sounds that intimidate people....
 

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The Sarachu pipes are a great upgrade, and you'll even have some change to spare as they're not quite $300. There are no flat spots like you can sometimes get with a 2 into 1 system, i.e. muzzy, D & D, Vance and Hines, etc. Your bike will lose about 7 pounds of weight with the Sarachu pipes- nowhere near the weight loss of going to a 2-1 system, but a considerable weightloss nevertheless. Bottom line, these pipes work very well with stock jetting, and the distributor even recommends keeping the stock jetting for best results.

As far as the popping on deceleration is concerned, there is a cure. You can adjust the idle mixture screws to richen the mixture on the carb's idle circuit. However, you will have to remove the carburetors from the bike to do so (at least at first.) The idle screws are preset at the factory and then a plug is placed over them to prevent tampering. You must first drill and remove this plug to have access to the idle screws. After the plugs are removed, you can infinitely adjust the idle mixture screws with the carbs on the bike. You'll just need a carb adjusting tool to do so.

Really, the popping is not that bad with the Sarachus. I love everything about the sound they produce on my 500R, and it totally adds more fun to the driving experience.

Jason
 

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1Adam12 said:
The second area to upgrade if you are going to be a serious rider is in lighter rims = less rotational mass. This will help you accelerate faster, decelerate faster, brake later going into a turn, get on the gas sooner in a turn and offer some nice bling as well.!
This is what I want. Where to find lighter rims? What is a weight of stock rims?
 

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I have the sarachu tips I Love the way they look and sound The poping don't bother me It did go down some since I richned it up
 

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Cale said:
1Adam12 said:
The second area to upgrade if you are going to be a serious rider is in lighter rims = less rotational mass. This will help you accelerate faster, decelerate faster, brake later going into a turn, get on the gas sooner in a turn and offer some nice bling as well.!
This is what I want. Where to find lighter rims? What is a weight of stock rims?
Several brands to look at and different materials.

Carbon Fiber = lightest and most expensive, but pound for pound is the best upgrade. DOT approved.

Magnesium - Next lightest material - Not DOT approved - Can have stress cracks over time. Recommended to be changed within 3 - 5 years

Aluminum - heavier than magnesium, but stronger and DOT approved. Still can save some weight from OEM rims.

Not sure what the OEM rims weigh, but my choice would be between the Carbon Fiber rims or the lightweight aluminum rims. Depends on your budget.

Blackstone Tek aka BST
Dymag
Marvic
PVM
Marchesini

CF rims about 3000.00
Magnesium about 2500.00
Aluminum about 2000.00

You can also save weight with wave rotors and going to a titanium rod for your wheels.

Look second hand as I found a pair of PVM aluminum rims for $300.00 for my Ninja. I see more auctions for Dymag in the UK and US and PVM rims in the german ebay. Buyer beware when you are that far away though.
 

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Personally I tihnk that $2000.00+ for just some rims is far too much money for the what is upgraded. I would also be warey of buying them used because on ebay it may be difficult to detect any problems with the rims and the seller may know something and not tell you.

Instead of ultra-expensive rims, I would go for better tires and maybe fix the shocks up with some heavier weight oil or springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
traction

Lighter rims sound nice, but 2 - 3 grand sounds like to much money. $300 is a great bargin, were they in perfect condititon too? I heard ss brake cables mentioned, what are they, how much are they?
 

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The cheapest way to reduce the weight of your ride is to go on a diet. If you knock off 20 pounds then you will feel healthier and your bike + rider will be quite a bit lighter.
 

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Re: traction

TARGETDIS said:
Lighter rims sound nice, but 2 - 3 grand sounds like to much money. $300 is a great bargin, were they in perfect condititon too? I heard ss brake cables mentioned, what are they, how much are they?
The rims came to me in perfect conditon. I also got several sprockets in new condition and some extra hubs... I got them on German Ebay and over there everything that is sold secondhand for vehicles must be approved with papers before being sold. it is inspected and given a seal of approval. I also had tons of pics taken. Keep in mind that rotational mass is not just taking weight off the bike, but more like taking 4x the weight off. The difference from OEM to new/old lt weight rims is more than 15 pounds. That is 15 x 4 = It's like taking 60 pounds of weight off the bike! huge difference. You can find new to almost new rims for about 50% of retail. Most likely to find Magnesium and Aluminum rims. 800 - 1500 - I've seen some brand new one on ebay go as low as 300

Stainless steel brake lines are a inexpensive mod and do wonders as well. About $80 or so.
 

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1Adam12:
Keep in mind that rotational mass is not just taking weight off the bike, but more like taking 4x the weight off.
It is too exp. but used ones could be OK, and could be the major iprovement. Aluminum rims we already have on our bikes (ex500).


Freakinout :
If you knock off 20 pounds then you will feel healthier
I'm 5'10" and 140 lb. If I knock off 20 lb I would die :)


I have one more question. What is diameter of Sarachu muflers? I'd like to try copy them. I guess 2.5 or 3".
 

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exhuast pipes do help out your performance they could lighten your load therefore a lil bit faster. (yoshimaru pipes)
 

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Load

Dump toss the centerstand shave off part of the rear fender, or removing all of it. and hanging the license plate..., replace the sidestand with a hardened aluminum or have something made that is just as srtong and powder coat it or anodize it...get lower profile tires instead of 70's or 65's go to 60 or 55 or smaller for less rotational mass, you will also turn much faster in turns. the suspension can be changed by changing the fork oil in the front lower or raising the front forks, and the rear you can get another shock to fit...getting the taller racing or touring windscreen, perhaps playing with the width of yoru fairing...getting semiflush turnsignals LED's, replacing the steel footpegs with rearsets that are aluminum the handlebars to clipons or go titanium/aluminum, check your tire pressures and draw chalk lines on your tires to see if you are using all of the tire or if you are running underinflated...wearing tight leathers or someting not flopping in the breeze, or filling up like a parachute will help. installing a rear cowl will clean up the aerodynamics, replace your airbox filter or go to airpods and go to stage III jetting, change your gearing...get a Corbin seat taht is lower or get a spare seat, shave it for where you set and then get it reupholstered...streamline your bike as much as possible, and include your body in that factor. wider tires are not always the best sometimes it is the compound fo r how you are riding and on what surfaces...air pressure cold makes a lot of difference...changing helmets may even help in some situations...I wear carple tunnel (arm braces when I ride anything to prevent strains) I also wear a kidney belt at all times..I'm 51 and have bad body parts...but I recommend under gear that no one will see but will protect you. Also change spark plugs to different heat ranges and log every mile nd then find the best gas and octane rating for your bike,,,they are NOT all the same. !00% synthetic oil should last a long time, the oil filter is what yo should change every 3000-5,000 miles, the oil will be good the filter does all teh work. Sync the carbs, adn stay on top of your log book with EVERY change you make to the tenth of a mile at least. Spark plugs make a big difference and so does the heat range...chew on this for a while then let us know what you do, and what has worked for you....teh MOST important thing is a log so that you can see not just feel the difference... Lube the chain After you get home so that it is still warm, as it cools off it will assorb the oil into the chain past the o rings...this is VERY important...
 
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