Starter Problems

Dont take offense for the post. It may also help others too

A bike battery (except BMW’s, well even they are generally smaller than a car’s) is a little thing, a car battery is a big thing.
Only use a ‘cheap’ Auto mart or motorcycle battery charger on a
motorcycle battery.
You know, max’ output five amps - MAXIMUM shown on the chargers dial.
The smaller specific to bike’s battery chargers, don’t normally even have
a dial.
They only charge at one amp or less. Smaller batteries cannot stand the ‘kick’ from a heavy duty car battery charger.
There is a good chance that it will damage the bike battery!

What I am getting to is this; ANY battery to be properly/correctly charged from flat needs to be charged for at least EIGHT hours.
It's how it works. . .

Only then can you be confident the battery is charged enough to do it’s job.
If it don’t then start the bike, the battery is most often the prime suspect.
A five year old battery is OLD. But as the previous post has stated, other
items should be checked before money is spent.
So, will the bike start with jumper cables connected from a running vehicle?
If yes, the battery is the likely suspect.
If no, look elsewhere!

I know, Fred from down the street can normally ‘just’ get his/her vehicle started after half an hours charge – that normally means the battery wasn’t that flat or, there is something else amiss!

Nicley spotted!
Just shows that the pain killers are working. Just have to
re-dose every four hours. Must be carefull with these old bones.

Just shows that lotsa peep's look back over what has been previously posted.

About the vehicle running bit. . . when using jump leads.
That is what I've always been shown.
Must also add, it is very bad maners to get someone to give you a jump-start,
then flatten THEIR battery. Honest, Vehicle running is best.
What it does is bring the battery voltage on the 'problem' vehicle up.
That puts less strain on the the jump leads. This shouldn't 'fry' the bike, as normally the vehicle's charging systems are both 12DC.
Further to that I'd also recomend 'holding' the running vehicles engine
speed over tickover. That will mean the 'good' vehicle's charging voltage will
be above battery nominal (12volts or less, often, about 10volts or less) voltage, for a flat battery.
That way the Bikes charging system cannot put energy into the donor vehicle - or be cooked by over working and trying to charge the car's battery, which requires a much bigger charging system.

Again, no offence ment.

Nicley spotted!
Just shows that the pain killers are working. Just have to
re-dose every four hours. Must be carefull with these old bones.

Just shows that lotsa peep's look back over what has been previously posted.

About the vehicle running bit. . . when using jump leads.
That is what I've always been shown.
Must also add, it is very bad maners to get someone to give you a jump-start,
then flatten THEIR battery. Honest, Vehicle running is best.
What it does is bring the battery voltage on the 'problem' vehicle up.
That puts less strain on the the jump leads. This shouldn't 'fry' the bike, as normally the vehicle's charging systems are both 12DC.
Further to that I'd also recomend 'holding' the running vehicles engine
speed over tickover. That will mean the 'good' vehicle's charging voltage will
be above battery nominal (12volts or less, often, about 10volts or less) voltage, for a flat battery.
That way the Bikes charging system cannot put energy into the donor vehicle - or be cooked by over working and trying to charge the car's battery, which requires a much bigger charging system.

Again, no offence ment.