Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Ride free and safe
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 Vulcan 1600 Classic and had to replace the back left turn signal light and holder because my ex broke it. After replacing it, a couple days later noticed that my taillight and license plate bulb were out. Checked them, they were fine. Checked the fuse, 10 amp, and it was blown. Replaced it but the fuse keeps blowing out. Looked at the wiring under back fender and they seemed fine. Any ideas why it is shorting out? I am getting frustrated, lol. Thanks for any help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
522 Posts
Maybe the wire is chafed somewhere in the rear bracket or where it enters the indicator body.

Was it a new indicator you fitted?
 

·
Ride free and safe
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes it was a new signal assembly. Took off taillight assembly and looked at wires and they were all fine. Terminals that plug into socket seemed fine also
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
522 Posts
Best to disconnect the indicator plug and rig up a spare bulb/indicator to connect to it and then earth this, it'll tell you if the problem is between the fuse and plug or in the indicator unit itself.
 

·
Ride free and safe
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Disconnected wire harness for taillight and turn signal. Still a short. Def under seat and near tank. Maybe fuse box ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,328 Posts
Try this testing procedure:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!


Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from KZrider.com - Home by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is caig.com - Home of DeoxIT - CAIG Laboratories, Inc. It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.


I'd look at any place where the wiring runs around a sharp edge or is stressed too tight.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top