Yes, and No, you've replaced the forks, the location of the axle in relation to the perpendicular steering axis is usually done so that when the handlebars are steered from left to right (or vice versa), the neck of the bike does not raise or lower, it stays the same height. Not only rake is involved, but stem to fork tube offset.
I knew a guy, his name was Frank Strnad, he designed world class racing bicycles. The theories are very much the same. When I was making my 1st recumbent bicycle, he told me, you will have a usable rake when you can turn the handlebars back and forth, and the neck does not rise. This will make the bike neutral. I did this on my CAD program (Rhino3D) and came up with a 12 degree rake to work with what I was making. It was so perfect you could pedal the bike in a smaller and smaller circle till the bike would just roll off the tires, with no scuffing, or any other indication that you were messing up. That is the best way any 2 wheeled vehicle can be, take you right to the edge, and still be stable, if you go off the tires, well you did that, the bike's geometry was not an issue.
You have different forks, an axle with an unknown relationship to the rake of the bike. If you put the front wheel on, and mounted the frame, turn the handlebars back and forth and see if the center steering stem stays the same height, if it does, you should be in a really good spot. That would give you an idea of how your bike has to sit on it's rear wheel.
I have made quite a few recumbent bikes from scratch then moved to trikes. If someone tells me that I am yammering on, well everything I have stated is in relationship to what is being done here.
Frank died in 2019. He sold me his virtually new "Miller Econotig" for $300 bucks, so he could help me get started. I fixed his T.V. for him. That man taught me much about the geometry of two wheeled vehicles. His frames were Chrome Moly and they were only .012" of an in thick wall thickness. Each one he made by hand. No two of his bikes were the same. People came from all over the world, and the bikes were made to that person's frame. Just something to think about, the technical aspect that is.
You don't need CAD to figure this stuff on. A plumb line and 6 foot level will go a long way, or you can just cut and grind your way into something that seems to work. Honda did it for years, that's way the early Honda's are known for the "Honda Wobble", tank slappers that would come at 70 mph for apparently no reason (crappy frame design, spindly forks.)
This is what a $1800 dollar world class looked like back in 1998: