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Discussion Starter #1
I'm new to the forum, and my 1995 Connie is new to me. This Connie looks practically new & shows 30,000 miles. What bothers me, is its rough idle. I have been told, that it is the "nature of the beast," and that all Connie's idle roughly. I'm also told, that this bike has had a recent dealer tune up, so a valve adjustment & carburator balance, plugs, etc., will not correct the rough idle.
Have I got a problem, or do they all idle roughly???:confused:
 

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Spinach Eating Moderator
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My 87 Connie idled smooth as silk, but had a rough sounding clatter from the cam chain until I replaced the tensioner.

Most rough idle problems on the Connie are solved by a good carb sync job.
I'd say, the "recent dealer tune up" was a selling tool, and may not have been as comprehensive as advertised. How well did you know the seller?
It may be time to take the bike to a mechanic you trust.

If the oil looks dirty at all, have it changed too. ;-)

Welcome to the forum. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Tod.
I think (hope) you are right. My thinking, it's a 4 cyl and should idle just a smooth as any other 4 cyl. Its too cold to mess with it right now, but a carb sync will happen in early spring. One other thought---
It has a K&N air filter, and I don't know if the carb was rejeted, or if it needed to be rejetted for the K&N. I've heard both ways, what do you think??
 

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Spinach Eating Moderator
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If the stock airbox has been replaced by a K&N, then it would need to have been rejetted, and it will be even more finicky about carb syncronization, even if it's been properly rejetted.
The K&N filter mod does offer some better performance, particularly if mated with a freer flowing exhaust, but sacrifices a couple MPG's in fuel efficiency.

I would also recommend reading some of the threads over at the COG forums (I'm a member there too), for more insight into how the K&N filters can affect engine idle and performance.
 

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AMA NRA LIBERTARIAN
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One thing I did for my Concours to help was take off
the caps that cover the adjustment screws on the Carbs.
I had found out by reading on the
ZG/GTR fanatics
website that a lot of times they are not adjusted evenly
from the factory. This was true for my bike. After I
turned them all in and then out one and a half turns
( and made them even)
the bike was a lot less cold blooded.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I appreciate the info, and have been reading the fanatics site for quite some time; yet to find anything specific. Are the caps that cover the adjustment screws easily removeable and replaceable?
 

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Once you remove them, I would see no reason to replace them.
Without the EPA they would not exist, and serve no purpose
but to make your bike run lean at idle by not letting you adjust the carbs.
Here is how I did it: Pull the carbs off, (without unhooking the throttle),
if your handle bars are stock you should have just enough slack to
where you can access the bottom of all 4 carbs.Carefully drill a small hole
in a cap. Thread a screw in the hole. Visegrip the screw and pull it off.
Repeat. By reading the COG forum I came up with this method
which seemed the easiest. After you get the caps off, screw all
4 adjustment screws in, then out 1 and a half turns evenly.
After I did that I synchronized my carbs.
It is also possible one of your idle jets is clogged.
 
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