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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In a earlier post, i was on the fence about buying a 220 that didnt run correctly. Well, i bought it and tore into it a bit and found the cam chain tensioner stuck and the chain was loose. I got the tensioner working correctly according to the manual but the bike still doesn,t run right. I think the timming is set correcly but the upper timing mark description is a little fuzzy in my repair manual. the dot on the cam gear is aligned to the top of the head were there is a raised spot on the casting which is about 12 o"clock. my question is if the chain was loose is that enought slop to allow the piston to hit the valves. The bike runs but no power. if you throttle it up itS like it wants to but cant, real loud out the carb. tomorrrow i am going to check the valve adjustment. also, if anyone can answer this one, the book shows only one roller bearing on the cam, but on line they show two. which is correct.. the bearing on the chain side has alot of play without the tensioner on well i will quit now and wait for any answers.
 

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In a earlier post, i was on the fence about buying a 220 that didnt run correctly. Well, i bought it and tore into it a bit and found the cam chain tensioner stuck and the chain was loose. I got the tensioner working correctly according to the manual but the bike still doesn,t run right. I think the timming is set correcly but the upper timing mark description is a little fuzzy in my repair manual. the dot on the cam gear is aligned to the top of the head were there is a raised spot on the casting which is about 12 o"clock. my question is if the chain was loose is that enought slop to allow the piston to hit the valves. The bike runs but no power. if you throttle it up itS like it wants to but cant, real loud out the carb. tomorrrow i am going to check the valve adjustment. also, if anyone can answer this one, the book shows only one roller bearing on the cam, but on line they show two. which is correct.. the bearing on the chain side has alot of play without the tensioner on well i will quit now and wait for any answers.
How is the compression?

To check the timing all you have to do is remove the plug on the upper shifter-side of the engine (slot on the top of it) and shine a flashlight in there until you see the T on the flywheel inside line up with the notch on the plug hole, this will tell you the piston is at TDC (top dead center) compression.You can also use a drinking straw and stick it in the spark plug hole and feel when the piston hits the top. Once it's set to TDC just take of the timing cover and see if the dot is aligned at the notch.

When you pull it over can you feel air coming out of the carb at all? If the timing chain flipped and bent the valves it will leak and you will feel the air leaking past.

Another thing you can do is check the valve lash. If it has not been checked in a long time they will work tight and hold the valves open a little bit and it will have poor compression and power. To do this you will have to set the piston to TDC compression using the steps above. Then there are two covers with two 10mm bolts holding them on. Each one is right above the intake and exhaust valves on the head. Once you have those off, check and see if there is any play at all between the rockers and tops of the valves. I don't remember the numbers off the top of my head but there should be a tiny bit of play. Find the numbers on the spec sheet at the Kawasaki website, and use a feeler gauge to check them. To adjust them you have to loosen the lock nut on the rocker arm and turn the adjusting screw until the feeler gauge slides between them with just a little resistance.

I hope this helps, report back your findings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Alright, I checked the valve lash/adjustmnt and wow I could have put a ruler in there. I set them both at .006 and it started and ran fine. The problem is it ticks like a time bomb. i noticed that the cam bearing is dry, i ran the bike and i expected to have oil fling out the valve covers and i didn't see any. I am assuming that the metal line runnung up to the back of cam bearing is a oil line for the head, I will also assume that it feeds thru the cam.
I think the cam is wasted as well as the bearings. possably the oil line is cloged, i will check this out in the future. But, how do i get rear cam bearing out. will it come out with the cam? I really appreciate all the help that has been givin to me on this project. I hope to be able to return the favor some day as i get more familiar with this bike.
 

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Sounds like oil pump or oil screen is plugged up. Is there oil in it??? Don't run it that wayor you may have a time bomb on your hands, may be to late already, hope nor.

Best of luck with it!!
 

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Never quite fixed.
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Alright, I checked the valve lash/adjustmnt and wow I could have put a ruler in there. I set them both at .006 and it started and ran fine. The problem is it ticks like a time bomb. i noticed that the cam bearing is dry, i ran the bike and i expected to have oil fling out the valve covers and i didn't see any. I am assuming that the metal line runnung up to the back of cam bearing is a oil line for the head, I will also assume that it feeds thru the cam.
I think the cam is wasted as well as the bearings. possably the oil line is cloged, i will check this out in the future. But, how do i get rear cam bearing out. will it come out with the cam? I really appreciate all the help that has been givin to me on this project. I hope to be able to return the favor some day as i get more familiar with this bike.
The valve specs are as follows.

Intake: 0.15-0.20 mm
Exhaust: 0.18-0.23 mm

Have you tried unbolting the oil line and cranking the engine (not starting it) to see if you have any flow at all?

To remove the cam you will have to remove the head. You might want to put some rope in the spark plug hole (a piston stop), and use an impact to remove the cam gear bolt before you pull it apart. It's a bear to get it to not turn while the head is off the engine. Then pull the head, and remove the cam gear. After that there are two Phillips head screws that hold a bearing plate on. From there you should be able to remove the plate, the rockers, and the cam.

In your case a service manual would be beneficial because you will have to check the cam and bearings for wear and what not.

Good luck.
 

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you can pull the cam out with out takein the head off ,take the two 10mm bolts out that covers the cam gear,put the motors timing marks inline ,remove tentsioner ,pull chain off gear use impact to take the cam bolt off ,remove gear ,then theres moon shaped plate with 2 screws reomve them and the plate ,then put the cam bolt in by hand to use a puller to pull the cam out.

i suspect your cam lube is gone if you had a lot off lash in the valves.your will asl ohave to repalce the rocker arms if the cam lube is gone,cause it lost its "hardfaceing"if you put a new cam in with out the rockers your cam will wear out quickly.trust me i am rebuildin my 250 mojave engine that has the same issue.my cam costed me 155 and a rocker 55 new from cheapcycleparts.com. also yor gonna have to replace cam chain it has stretched if the cam lubes wore.

and your gonna have to pull the side covers off your engine and clean all the shaveings out of the case,there is a screen on the stator side of the engine underneith the stator or clutch basket cant remeber which. you will pull the screen out and clean it out and flush the crank case out with kerosene with the drain bolt out.and clean all the oil lines and take your oil filter out and flush it and repalce the oil filter. you may need to take the clutch apart and clean the flake out of them also. you are in for a world of fun brother, my engine is torn all the way down every thing is off and clean now just waitin on the parts to come in to get her back together and running again,good luck my friend if you need help we will be here -corey-
 
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