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valve clearance

1386 Views 14 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  aftermath4788
Hello everyone. This isnt a question or anything like this. I just figure I would share because we all enjoy to hear that someones bike is doing great. Well the other day, I checked the valve clearance on my ninja 250. I was expecting it to be out of specs because I never checked them since I bought the bike with half a mile on it. It now has 8500 on it. I had been putting it off for all this time now and finally found the time to do it. They were all with in specs but they were a bit on the tight side so i know the next time its due, i will need to adjust them. But thats my good experience for the day. Have a good day everyone
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that would be the first 250 that didn't need an adjustment on the first service I have heard of. every one I have done needed exhaust on 1 and intake on 2 adjusted.
Maybe I got that one in a million type bikes. Cant complain about that though. The hardest part about checking the clearance was getting that valve cover off. That was a pain in the @ss
Maybe I got that one in a million type bikes. Cant complain about that though. The hardest part about checking the clearance was getting that valve cover off. That was a pain in the @ss

or you didn't get the right drag on the gages and think you are good.

did you drain the coolant?

I figured out how to do the job without draining it.
I got the second one in a million. Mine didnt need adjusting til 12,932 miles. It really needed it by then. I waited to see what the effects would be without adjusting. That way I would have more knowledge then it just needing it.
tight valves, hard to no starting, loss of compression...
Yup, I know now. It gets done very 5500-6000 miles now.

I have just over 25,000 miles since new 6/06.
tight valves, hard to no starting, loss of compression...
burned valve seats, crispy fried valves.....:eek:

The valves use the head as their heat sink in operation, each time the valves close they transfer heat into the head. If the valve can't seat fully, it doesn't transfer heat well. Also, hot exhaust gas will blow by the valve face when the valve should be closed making it get even hotter.
I should have changed the verbage in my post. Not effects of not doing but how the bike would behave without valve adjustment completed. I didnt ride it until I had time to do the adjustment. It sat once the stalling and hard starting began.
I didnt drain the coolant but I was about to because the coolant line goings into the engine right next to the cover and it was tough to slip it by the line but after about 2 hours of messing with it and taking the right side coil off it came off. What really made me made was the fact that when I went to put the cover back on it, the cover went back on like a hot knife through butter. Took about 2 seconds to get it back in place. And I am sure I got the measures right because after I checked it, I had one of the mechanics at work who worked on Harleys for many many years before and had done valve clearances a billion and one times recheck it just for that added comfort. He got the same readings I did. He kept hitting the starter button to turn the cams over for too long. He was getting so mad that he could get them in the right position until after the 20th try.
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I didnt drain the coolant but I was about to because the coolant line goings into the engine right next to the cover and it was tough to slip it by the line but after about 2 hours of messing with it and taking the right side coil off it came off. What really made me made was the fact that when I went to put the cover back on it, the cover went back on like a hot knife through butter. Took about 2 seconds to get it back in place. And I am sure I got the measures right because after I checked it, I had one of the mechanics at work who worked on Harleys for many many years before and had done valve clearances a billion and one times recheck it just for that added comfort. He got the same readings I did. He kept hitting the starter button to turn the cams over for too long. He was getting so mad that he could get them in the right position until after the 20th try.
Take the spark plugs out to release the compression and use the kick starter (and your arm) to tap the engine into the right position.

makes life a lot easier.
I had the spark plugs out because I wanted to see how they were holding up and found out they need to be replaced. The motor turned easily, just used the starter to do it so its less manual labor. But in the end, everything worked great and now I know which way to turn the cover to get it off and take the coil off so now I will be able o get it off within minutes. Next time will be a breeze.
Next time remove the alternator cover/flywheel view cap on the left side. Use a ratchet/socket to turn the engine. Much easier and you put the cam lobes right where you need them.
cool thanks for the advice. Ill do anything to make it as easy as possible so next time i can do it within the hour.
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