Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was cleaning the bike one day not long after I got it and noticed that the rear turn signal bar that is bolted to the fender was lose and wiggly. SO I crawl under the bike with wrench in hand to tighten...and I could not even budge the nuts on it. so I was like WTF?? Now I grab the lights on outside...it wiggles around...vibrates when the bike is idleing...So I don't know if that is common for this bike...it is on a rubber block so its like a shock but it just don't seem right.

Anyone else have this issue? is this common?

Another thing is...thinkin about changing out the taillight/turn signals/liceanse plate holder...but no one reall makes a cool replacement light system...so was gonna do my own. So what do I need to do..take off stock...fill holes...hand down...drill new holes...then repaint it all to match???
 

·
Custom '07 1500 Classic
Joined
·
1,737 Posts
It is unfortunately very common problem with the 1500. We've fixed boat loads of bikes with this issue using one of two different methods.

1. Remove the bushings from the rubber grommets and grind them down enough to allow the bolts to actually tighten the bar.

2. Cut a small piece of mouse pad or other thick rubber and put it between the bar and the fender. You will need to also cut two holes for the bolts.

Either one will work, I used the mouse pad on my bike and haven't had an issue with it. The bushing cut down is easy if you have a good grinder and are careful.

Good luck..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It is unfortunately very common problem with the 1500. We've fixed boat loads of bikes with this issue using one of two different methods.

1. Remove the bushings from the rubber grommets and grind them down enough to allow the bolts to actually tighten the bar.

2. Cut a small piece of mouse pad or other thick rubber and put it between the bar and the fender. You will need to also cut two holes for the bolts.

Either one will work, I used the mouse pad on my bike and haven't had an issue with it. The bushing cut down is easy if you have a good grinder and are careful.

Good luck..
OK thanks for the help. So on the grounding of the bushing...what your saying is the bushing is to long and when the bolts tightened up there is not enuff compression in the grommet to stop the vibrating. So by grinding down the bushing its allowing me to tighten the bolt tighter to stop the vibration?? am I getting that right??
 

·
Rebel Rider
Joined
·
3,646 Posts
Actually, it's not a problem, but is designed that way. Keeps it from breaking off with the vibration that the V-twin gives.

If it bothers you, use the mod on Gadgets site.
 

·
Custom '07 1500 Classic
Joined
·
1,737 Posts
+1^ Also prolongs bulb life. Kawasaki designed it that way.

I'm not so sure I buy the "prolongs bulb life" part. When I had LED lights in my turn signals before I did the mouse pad trick the vibration literally shook the LED to death. The LED lights actually broke and shook free from the printed circuit board. Just because Kawasaki designs something a certain way doesn't always mean it's the correct or best way. Can you say plastic oil gear?
 

·
Test Pilot
Joined
·
2,916 Posts
I'm not so sure I buy the "prolongs bulb life" part. When I had LED lights in my turn signals before I did the mouse pad trick the vibration literally shook the LED to death. The LED lights actually broke and shook free from the printed circuit board. Just because Kawasaki designs something a certain way doesn't always mean it's the correct or best way. Can you say plastic oil gear?
It wasn't designed for LED lights.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,749 Posts
If you tighten them down it won't be too many miles before you'll be complaining about your rear fender cracking and dropping your rear light bar on the road.
 

·
Test Pilot
Joined
·
2,916 Posts
If you tighten them down it won't be too many miles before you'll be complaining about your rear fender cracking and dropping your rear light bar on the road.
Agree, one small pot hole could do it.
My philosophy, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

The reason why Kawasaki chose to fabricate them all like that, leaving a little looseness, tells me, it was done on purpose for whatever reason. So, some things should just be left alone sometimes.

That said, if the rear light/flasher bar were to rattle while riding the beast, I would find that very annoying, and yes, I would find a way to silence it somehow. But, if it just rattles while idling, that is just the nature of the beast, and they are loose on all 1500`s.

However, if you'll feel better tightening it....go ahead and knock yourself, and dont' let anyone stop you.

I`m sure other brands have their little tweeks and rattles too, which are normal for that particular model.
Good luck ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK well thanks for all the input...now I understand that it was designed that way by Kaw...I didn't buy it new so I didn't know it came that way thats why I was asking. Its fine for me to stay "wiggly lose" for me if thats the way its suppose to be.

Next questions...was thinkin bout redoing the whole rear fender setup with smaller LED brake light and mounting turnsignals off the side of the fender...do you think thats bad idea with all the vibration...don't other bikes that have the setup vibrate too..or is the Kaw worse then others?
 

·
Rebel Rider
Joined
·
3,646 Posts
I'm not so sure I buy the "prolongs bulb life" part. When I had LED lights in my turn signals before I did the mouse pad trick the vibration literally shook the LED to death. The LED lights actually broke and shook free from the printed circuit board. Just because Kawasaki designs something a certain way doesn't always mean it's the correct or best way. Can you say plastic oil gear?


As Dudester said, it was not designed for LEDs. They didn't come OEM on the 1500. I'm not sure I understand your logic.....you mod your lights with bulbs that are not standard OEM, then they break, and you blame Kawasaki???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
As Dudester said, it was not designed for LEDs. They didn't come OEM on the 1500. I'm not sure I understand your logic.....you mod your lights with bulbs that are not standard OEM, then they break, and you blame Kawasaki???
No your jumpin in middle before getting all the details. earleirs discussion was about why is the rear turnsignal bar lose..I didn't know all Kaws were lose like that..now I know thats done and over with.
My next question was...if I were to eventually redo my rear fender...cause I don't like the brakelight..big old red ugly thing stickin out with bih ugly license place above it...if I were to mount a brakelight different and then mount the turnsignals on side of fender...would they be affect by the vibration??? dont other bikes that come stock setup this way...like the way the VTX has the turns on the side of the fender...with a lowpro flater brake...if it works on them why not a kaw. Im just asking...Im not blaming Kaw for anyhting...no one is...I like my bikes to be unique...differnent from the other Vulcan Classics..so I change things up.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top