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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, hope you can help me out with this one...

I recently bought a "second-hand" 99 Nomad with V&H bagger dual exhaust and a K&N air filter using the stock air intake housing. When I go to start it up I need to pull the choke and let it warm up for several minutes (5-10 min with choke wide open) before I can get any throttle response with the choke closed. Otherwise, if I jab the throttle, the bike will hesitate, spit and/or stop.

I have also been noticing that when I cut the throttle to decelerate before a slow turn, when I try to accelerate through the turn the bike will often times "bucks" and hesitates before jumping back up to the proper RPM (making for a rough ride).

Any ideas? Jetting problem? How can I pinpoint the problem, and then what is the best way of fixing it. I would like to eventually make air-intake mods, but I want the bike performing correctly before I try to screw it up even more... :twisted:
 

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I would think its a jetting/carb issue. With those kinda mods I would think you'd need quite a bit more fuel running in there and if there is not bigger jets and different needle settings I bet that thing is running lean.
 

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Definate jet problem, cause I have it too. I think I need to raise my floats because I have tried every possible needle height/ screw adjustment possible, and I still get the bog at 2-4k rpm's. Real noticable when trying to accelerate through turns, kinda makes me sad :(
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think I need to raise my floats because I have tried every possible needle height/ screw adjustment possible, and I still get the bog at 2-4k rpm's.
What's involved in raising the floats? More difficult than re-jetting? What size jets are you running now?
 

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03SSgt said:
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

Doesn't look difficult, but minor measurements mean alot of change. I'm running #135 main jets, K&N Air Filter, D&D full exhaust. I can't wait to get a fuel injected bike :cry:
Fuel injected bikes aren't perfect either, if you go to high altitudes they run like crap. (w/o remapping that is)
 

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Freakinout said:
Fuel injected bikes aren't perfect either, if you go to high altitudes they run like crap. (w/o remapping that is)
Never plan on leaving Texas :wink:

Hoora for 100ft above sea level :lol:
 

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pfft woohoo for 5280 ft. My bike runs excellent, I rode down to SD, I say down thanks to the elevation and the bike seemed to run perfectly there.

If I ever had any issues like when I go to sturgis in a few weeks what will I need to do to temp fix it?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, here's the latest....

I pulled the plugs and I found them to be in very good shape. The ceramics and the electrodes were very clean and the grounding electrodes had a small amount of tan-ish deposits. I did notice that there was a fair amount of carbon buildup on the base of the threads and the base of the grounding electrodes.

In the process of checking my plugs I noticed the left-rear plug wire was not seated the whole way onto the plug. So after checking the plugs I took the bike out for a test ride. It did run better, but it is not 100%. The warm up time still seems excessive and there is still hesitation/bucking during low throttle maneuvers
 

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Remove the vent tube to the floats. Change back to oem springs and check each float to make sure they are all the same setting. You will lose a little performance with the spring change - but try it. You can always go back
 
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